There's Also Castrol Edge Extended performance 5W30, it's ACEA C2, so it's a little thinner for grade and would have a slightly lower HTHS than an ACEA C3 oil like the Euro L or Edge LL, but still thicker than 0W20.
What is in Dexos-D (or maybe what isn't there) that would make the emissions system go, especially if I'm using a 0w30 that's MB 229.51 certified? I realize we are all guessing now, but there has to be some logic behind the guess.Just use the 0w20 Dexos D. You will be cussing at fixing the emission system, before your needing to fix the engine, because you're using the right oil.
Your truck your money. If you are going to change the oil in 5,000 miles, you could get a uoa to see what is what. That should tell you where the oil is and how it is performing in your engine. And, if you think about it, how is the oil going to perform so poorly after just 5,000 miles that it would wear your engine out? Not really a guess but a logical question.What is in Dexos-D (or maybe what isn't there) that would make the emissions system go, especially if I'm using a 0w30 that's MB 229.51 certified? I realize we are all guessing now, but there has to be some logic behind the guess.
How similar is the 3.0L to the 2.8L other than them both being diesel engines offered in GM pickup trucks, the 2.8L is a modified vm motori design, isn't it? While the new 3.0L is a new in house design, I thought?I suspect this engine does have fuel dilution like my 2.8 does, around 2-2.7%. Based on that I do and would use a thicker oil in the 3.0 because the viscosity drops as the fuel accumulates in the oil.
How similar is the 3.0L to the 2.8L other than them both being diesel engines offered in GM pickup trucks, the 2.8L is a modified vm motori design, isn't it? While the new 3.0L is a new in house design, I thought?
But the Ram engine is pretty well known for being garbage, between the EGR cooler failures, the bad bearings from the factory, oil cooler failures, etc...I remember when Ram tried 30w oils in their 3.0L diesel. Let's just say it didn't go well. Ended up having abnormally high failure rate as the miles and years went by.
So then they changed the SPEC, not the engine, but the spec to a 40w oil on those to combat the issue.
Now, the new Gen 3 of that engine has a totally new oil spec that's even better, but it's still 5W40.
These OEs know that 20w and 30w oils don't protect diesels properly. But as you mentioned they are only concerned with CAFE targets and getting through warranty period. Unfortunately it puts the owner in a bad position. If you switch to a 5W40 oil, your engine will be healthier and last longer but you may void your warranty IF an issue comes up. If you stay with the watery oil you'll protect warranty (100,000 miles, right?) but the engine will likely be heavily worn by the time it gets there.
I would suggest Motul X-Clean 5W40. It's specifically formulated for DPF engines like ours with