I would venture to say that accuracy isn't as important as consistency is a lot of applications.
Torque Wrench Recommendation for Low Foot Lbs?
- Thread starter jpa
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Originally Posted By: NoNameJoe
Harbor Freight Tools sells 1/4th, 3/8th and 1/2 inch drive click torque wrenches. They're usually 20.00 but go on sale for 10.00 a lot.
The 1/4th drive will do what you're looking for. I own all three drives (and multiples of each) and they work very well. I've not had one defective.
I wouldn't use one these these for the delicate work. You get what you pay for. Myself, for the delicate stuff, I use Snap On.
Harbor Freight Tools sells 1/4th, 3/8th and 1/2 inch drive click torque wrenches. They're usually 20.00 but go on sale for 10.00 a lot.
The 1/4th drive will do what you're looking for. I own all three drives (and multiples of each) and they work very well. I've not had one defective.
I wouldn't use one these these for the delicate work. You get what you pay for. Myself, for the delicate stuff, I use Snap On.
Originally Posted By: jpa
Cujet - I never considered that perspective of "holding the torque" and stretching the bolt.
My father rebuilt a SeaDoo engine using one of those dial torque wrenches.
While it seems strange to many who are used to garden variety bolts (hardware) , my example is a good one. ARP head studs are designed to stretch. They thread into the block with the standard coarse threads. The nut, however, is fine threaded. This puts much more "pull" on the stud than the OEM head bolt can produce (with it's coarse threads) . Hence the excellent performance of ARP type products in high boost applications.
The ARP stud's "nuts" are typically lubricated with a product that reduces friction, allowing the nut to turn easily under high load. At least for a few seconds. As the stud stretches, the nut turns a bit. The beam type torque wrench will give excellent results in this example.
It's not unusual for improperly torqued "stretch" type studs and bolts to fail under cyclic loads, when improperly torqued. Aircraft connecting rods have had this issue for the last 100 years!
The old school SeaDoo 2 stroke engines had similar stretch type stainless bolts holding down the head. They were easily ruined by sloppy technicians.
Cujet - I never considered that perspective of "holding the torque" and stretching the bolt.
My father rebuilt a SeaDoo engine using one of those dial torque wrenches.
While it seems strange to many who are used to garden variety bolts (hardware) , my example is a good one. ARP head studs are designed to stretch. They thread into the block with the standard coarse threads. The nut, however, is fine threaded. This puts much more "pull" on the stud than the OEM head bolt can produce (with it's coarse threads) . Hence the excellent performance of ARP type products in high boost applications.
The ARP stud's "nuts" are typically lubricated with a product that reduces friction, allowing the nut to turn easily under high load. At least for a few seconds. As the stud stretches, the nut turns a bit. The beam type torque wrench will give excellent results in this example.
It's not unusual for improperly torqued "stretch" type studs and bolts to fail under cyclic loads, when improperly torqued. Aircraft connecting rods have had this issue for the last 100 years!
The old school SeaDoo 2 stroke engines had similar stretch type stainless bolts holding down the head. They were easily ruined by sloppy technicians.
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
If you are a professional and own a Snap-On 1/4 torque wrench, you are skilled enough NOT to have to use it on valve cover bolts!
Skill has nothing to do with it. Torque specs are torque specs. Anything less is a guess. Good practices are learned and maintained by following procedure and not making the mistake of thinking you know more than the manufacturer.
Let me catch one of the A&P's using "experience" instead of a torque wrench...
If you are a professional and own a Snap-On 1/4 torque wrench, you are skilled enough NOT to have to use it on valve cover bolts!
Skill has nothing to do with it. Torque specs are torque specs. Anything less is a guess. Good practices are learned and maintained by following procedure and not making the mistake of thinking you know more than the manufacturer.
Let me catch one of the A&P's using "experience" instead of a torque wrench...
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If you hang out at a shop which fixes cars for living, rarely you will see torque wrench being used. Some things need torque wrench without any question but I don't consider valve cover bolts in that category.
All the cracked plastic valve covers I have replaced say otherwise. Some snapped aluminum bolts would agree. What about the warped steel covers, also from overtightening?
I've dealt with other people's come-backs before. Fixing the other guy's mistake isn't fun. When a car comes in for an oil leak, leaves, and returns with an oil leak AND a massive vacuum leak.
If you hang out at a shop which fixes cars for living, rarely you will see torque wrench being used. Some things need torque wrench without any question but I don't consider valve cover bolts in that category.
All the cracked plastic valve covers I have replaced say otherwise. Some snapped aluminum bolts would agree. What about the warped steel covers, also from overtightening?
I've dealt with other people's come-backs before. Fixing the other guy's mistake isn't fun. When a car comes in for an oil leak, leaves, and returns with an oil leak AND a massive vacuum leak.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If you hang out at a shop which fixes cars for living, rarely you will see torque wrench being used. Some things need torque wrench without any question but I don't consider valve cover bolts in that category.
Yes and it shows. Most of the time, many items are way over torqued. Drain plugs,spark plugs,lug nuts and valve covers come to mind. Those "wrenches" are either too proud or dumb to do it right and be seen using a torque wrench.
If you hang out at a shop which fixes cars for living, rarely you will see torque wrench being used. Some things need torque wrench without any question but I don't consider valve cover bolts in that category.
Yes and it shows. Most of the time, many items are way over torqued. Drain plugs,spark plugs,lug nuts and valve covers come to mind. Those "wrenches" are either too proud or dumb to do it right and be seen using a torque wrench.
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