Will probably be fine. He who dies with the most tools wins!
Looking for a new torque wrench
- Thread starter zorobabel
- Start date
You ordered an Etork despite your mentioning numerous sheared "thingy" Amazon review pics of it?
I suspect the Tekton is nearly the same. I have this Tekton and love it. Bought the 3/8" and 1/2" combo (not the link below):Icon split beam could be a contender. I like the flex head for clearing sidewalls without catching my knuckles. No need to store at zero.
Is not reversible, which is virtually never a problem
1/2 in. Drive 40-250 ft. lb. Professional Split Beam Torque Wrench
Amazing deals on this 1/2In Drive Pro Split Beam Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
1/2 Inch Drive 72-Tooth Split Beam Torque Wrench | TRQ62203 | TEKTON
1/2 inch drive split beam torque wrench. Range from 40-250 ft/lb. TRQ62203.
Lug nuts.
And then Tekton gives you a 10% or so credit on your next purchase. So it costs less than the HF tool unless you have a coupon.
Again, 32T vs 90T and the Tekton calibration still wasn't stellar even in Round 2. Something is different.....I suspect the Tekton is nearly the same. I have this Tekton and love it. Bought the 3/8" and 1/2" combo (not the link below):
1/2 Inch Drive 72-Tooth Split Beam Torque Wrench | TRQ62203 | TEKTON
1/2 inch drive split beam torque wrench. Range from 40-250 ft/lb. TRQ62203.www.tekton.com
Yes, I have the 250 ft pound model. The reason is that I have been in the calibration business since 1973 and the wrenches where you line up marks on the barrel have a big problem: sometimes the manufacturing is not exact and you can't really tell where the wrench is set. With the eTork wrench there is no doubt where the wrench is set. If you store your wrench in a box or rocks or use it as a hammer, the eTork is not for you. If you treat it like a piece of precision measurement equipment you'll be a happy camper.
I'm cheap
1/2" Drive Split-beam Click Wrench - C3FR250F
The 1/2" Drive Split-beam Click Wrench - C3FR250F overcomes many of the problems associated with micrometer-style clock wrenches in abusive environments. Shop split-beam click wrenches now!
torqwrench.com
I have this exact torque wrench, excellent quality! I got lucky buying it a couple years ago before the supply chain issues, it was more than half that price! But I'd say this torque wrench is the best I've ever used.1/2" Drive Split-beam Click Wrench - C3FR250F
The 1/2" Drive Split-beam Click Wrench - C3FR250F overcomes many of the problems associated with micrometer-style clock wrenches in abusive environments. Shop split-beam click wrenches now!
That's the problem and I believe in other threads even @Trav has alluded to this: it's a nice piece but they're awfully proud of it at today's pricing.
If video evidence is to be believed it's difficult to see what exactly you're getting for the extra cost.
And for the record I'm not a HF fan boi and in general I think the ICON line is overpriced smoke 'n mirrors-- but for the moment their split beam TW seems to be the exception (shrug)
I had one 10 or so years ago. I really liked it (met its demise when it failed and I was having a bad day, and I took it out on it rather than whatever I was truly mad about). I found it great on lug nuts: once they were more than finger tight, it's not much to go from zero to 90 ft-lbs. So I would angle the readout upward, tighten all 5 to 30, then go back and do all to 60, and then go back and do all to 90. And never touch anything! No turning a knob, no changing settings.
Tempted to buy another one, just for this purpose, as my who knows how old HF 150 ft-lb 1/2" drive is missing parts and I'm not sure what is keeping it going.
Well, the E-torq survived it's first day up to 166 lbft; gotta find target practice.
It's 20" long vs 18" for HB cheapo, 2" makes quite the difference.
The dial graph seems a bit wobbly - maybe that's why it's a refurb?
My main issue with it - is that it has a plastic handle and the instructions say to only apply torque to the grip section; those 2 things would rule out increasing leverage with a pipe.
I barely held off buying the Icon this weekend, tax man takes everything.
It's 20" long vs 18" for HB cheapo, 2" makes quite the difference
.The dial graph seems a bit wobbly - maybe that's why it's a refurb?
My main issue with it - is that it has a plastic handle and the instructions say to only apply torque to the grip section; those 2 things would rule out increasing leverage with a pipe.
I barely held off buying the Icon this weekend, tax man takes everything.
Never use a pipe on a torque wrench. Ever.Well, the E-torq survived it's first day up to 166 lbft; gotta find target practice.
It's 20" long vs 18" for HB cheapo, 2" makes quite the difference
The dial graph seems a bit wobbly - maybe that's why it's a refurb?
My main issue with it - is that it has a plastic handle and the instructions say to only apply torque to the grip section; those 2 things would rule out increasing leverage with a pipe.
I barely held off buying the Icon this weekend, tax man takes everything.
Well, the E-torq survived it's first day up to 166 lbft; gotta find target practice.
It's 20" long vs 18" for HB cheapo, 2" makes quite the difference.
The dial graph seems a bit wobbly - maybe that's why it's a refurb?
My main issue with it - is that it has a plastic handle and the instructions say to only apply torque to the grip section; those 2 things would rule out increasing leverage with a pipe.
I barely held off buying the Icon this weekend, tax man takes everything.
It's 20" long vs 18" for HB cheapo, 2" makes quite the difference
.The dial graph seems a bit wobbly - maybe that's why it's a refurb?
My main issue with it - is that it has a plastic handle and the instructions say to only apply torque to the grip section; those 2 things would rule out increasing leverage with a pipe.
I barely held off buying the Icon this weekend, tax man takes everything.
Didn't know that, thanks!
How do the internals of the wrench know where it's being pulled on? It's just measuring the difference between handle force and the anvil.
It may vary based on the type of wrench, but I have all of my clickers marked 12" from the anvil, and will pull at that point using a fish scale to verify calibration. It always comes in pretty close to where it is supposed to.
I suspect because things flex differently. I have calibrated torque wrenches professionally since 1973. All the cal procedures say to apply the pressure at the correct spot. If you don't, it does make a difference. Technically, you should measure from the center of the handle and do the math.
JHZR2
Staff member
Same. I’d buy this rather than financing Chinese military buildup via HF.
