Tom Slick's El Cheapo Brake Bleeder.

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Here is my $0.40 one-man (single technician to be pc) brake bleeder. It's really simple and it just works. No adapters needed and no significant investment. You don't have to order anything and you won't find it on a tool truck. Parts are available from any hardware store, parts store, maybe even the oil heaven (to some) known as Wal-Mart.

All you need is a container and a couple of feet of appropriately sized clear tubing. I used 3 feet of tubing. Really... that's it!

Instructions for use:

Make sure there is 1" or 2" of brake fluid in your container and that the end of the tubing is always submerged in that fluid. The key is the end of the tubing is submerged. The initial fill of your container could be the old fluid you have sucked out of the MC i.e. "turkey baster" method.


Connect the tubing and loosen the bleeder screw 1/8 to 1/4 turn, just enough to let the fluid flow out.

Now pump the brake pedal smoothly and push out all of the old fluid. Make sure to keep an eye on the MC so it doesn't go empty. You can yell "pump!" and "hold!" for nostalgia but it's not necessary because nobody is there helping you; remember this is a "one-man" setup.

You can pump 10 times or so for each caliper until you need to check for clean fluid in the tubing.

The tubing submerged in the fluid in the container will create enough resistance to act as a check valve. The fluid will only flow out. In 15 years of using this setup I have not had fluid or air back up into the system.

Close the bleeder and move to the next caliper

When you empty the container remember to leave a couple of inches of fluid for the next caliper.


I like the quart sized brake fluid bottle because I can flush the whole system before emptying it and it doesn't spill much if I knock it over. You could also use a gallon carboy, Mason jar, small bucket, beer bottle, soda can, Erlenmeyer flask...anything as long as the end of the tube is submerged.


This is my setup

Taken apart

Brake-Bleeder-3.jpg


Assembled

Brake-Bleeder-1.jpg


But it could also be setup like this (red cap not needed)

Brake-Bleeder-2.jpg
 
You could do that with a soda or water bottle. (emptied and dried out of course) so you can see if you are about to fill the bottle.
 
I use this method to bleed the brakes and it works very well considering that its using simple equipment.

For some cars air and brake fluid can seep past the bleeder screw threads. So might be a good idea to put some grease around the bleeder screw to get an air tight seal.
 
I spend five bucks on basically the same thing. It works perfectly. My cup, and maybe yours, isn't big enough so I set it on my oil pan/container/tub. Wanted a fancy Motive, but really I have all I need with a cup and some tubing and at least I have the fancy ends that go over the nipple.

Might be worth the upgrade to some silicone surgical tubing. I couldn't find anything I thought would work, which is why I bought the "one man bleeder"... to make sure the tubing-nipple connection wouldn't let air in. I also use sil-glyde on the nipple as well.
 
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People have been using this method for decades. I helped my dad do his car this way back in the mid sixties.

I prefer a pressure bleeder myself, no brake pumping and possible cyl damage.
 
Originally Posted By: daman
lol..i'll stick with my Motive.


lol..whatever works for you. Both get the job done and this method is dang near free.

For $0.40 it works as good or better than anything else you are going to buy for under $20.

As far as MC damage due to pressing the pedal out of its usual working area; if its going to get damaged/fail I'd rather it happen while I'm working on it then when operating the vehicle. What happens when, for whatever reason, the MC piston moves into the corroded area when you are braking hard?
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Originally Posted By: daman
lol..i'll stick with my Motive.


lol..whatever works for you. Both get the job done and this method is dang near free.

For $0.40 it works as good or better than anything else you are going to buy for under $20.

As far as MC damage due to pressing the pedal out of its usual working area; if its going to get damaged/fail I'd rather it happen while I'm working on it then when operating the vehicle. What happens when, for whatever reason, the MC piston moves into the corroded area when you are braking hard?

I hear ya, Mehh at least it gives someone motivation to service there ride and that's always a good thing.
 
I like your method tom slick and you say it works. I always wondered why it wouldn't work.

Why then, is my factory service manual so adamant that you have to have a second person close the bleeder at the end of each pedal down stroke BEFORE you let the pedal back up.

They also say that you have to open the bleeder 1/2 to 1 full turn to get enough fluid velocity to move any stubborn bubbles out.

What I am asking is why the difference between the "by the book" method vs. your successful, tried and true "seat of the pants" method?

Regarding the MC damage potential, don't some people recommend putting a block of wood under the pedal so it doesn't travel down 100%.

Finally, some of the 1 man bleeders recommend having the waste bottle higher than the bleeder valve. Why?
 
If you were bleeding a system that had air in it I could see trying to get some pressure and velocity, but for routine flushing this method/setup is really fast.
If you wanted to use the traditional two person procedure, this tubing/container still works great.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
. Finally, some of the 1 man bleeders recommend having the waste bottle higher than the bleeder valve. Why?


With the waste bottle higher than the bleeder valve, the fluid pressure at the bleeder outlet is higher than atmospheric and if any negative pressure is created on the backstroke of the pedal, only fluid gets sucked back into the caliper and not air.
 
Great idea Tom.

Geez, that $90 I spent on a Motive is starting to look more and more silly by the day.
 
What size tubing did you use for this setup? The various threads have listed either:

-1/8" ID
-5/32" ID
-3/16" ID

Thanks.
 
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