Even if you use a 2 person bleeding method, it's still much quicker to use your Mityvac to siphon out the reservoir and fill with new fluid before you start pumping on the brake pedal.
brake bleeder ideas
- Thread starter Donald
- Start date
- Status
Build your own pressure bleeder out of a 1 gallon garden sprayer, a male ended air hose fitting, couple feet of clear tubing, and a Help! resivoir cap. I had the sprayer already, so it only cost me $10.
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
Build your own pressure bleeder out of a 1 gallon garden sprayer, a male ended air hose fitting, couple feet of clear tubing, and a Help! resivoir cap. I had the sprayer already, so it only cost me $10.
that's the cheapest way while being reliable, otherwise buy a power bleeder like the motive with their cap to fit your reservoir.
the problem with "gravity bleeding" is simple logic. take a simple bubble level and tilt it to one side, the fluid flows downward while the air bubble floats upward. same thing will happen with air inside the brake line especially at the flex line at the caliper where the line forms a U shape. you need to force the fluid through in order to carry the air through and out the system at the other end. only way gravity bleed would work if there is no air in the system.
vacuum bleeding is pressure bleeding, your still using air pressure to force fluid from the res. down the system where there's lower pressure at the caliper bleeder screw. the problem is you cannot easily reduce the pressure of a large enough volume and then you are collecting brake fluid in a container that's too small. using a power bleeder where you pressurize the master cylinder res. is the best and most reliable way to bleed the system and you can force fluid through the system under enough pressure and flow rate to move air out the system. And you're not limited by the size of the container collecting fluid at the caliper like you are with a vacuum bleeder setup.
with power bleeders like the motive, you do not need to fill the container with brake fluid that will supply the master cyl reservoir with fluid during the bleeding process. just use the motive as an air pressure tank to pressurize the master cyl res. fill the master res. near completely then pressurize and bleed system but stop when the reservoir is about 1/4 full, then just refill it and re-bleed. i just did my 2006 sierra with all new brake hard lines and power bleeding by the method i described, i had fluid at both rear calipers (on a truck) before the master cyl reservoir went down to half. and i did not have to do any special abs bleed procedure either. so i recommend you don't waste your time with any method other than "power" bleeding by pressurizing the master cyl res. the motive bleeder caps are convenient, i have just the one for GM. they are over priced and they will leak so don't use a pressure vessel with brake fluid in it. i haven't done it but i would recommend buying a replacement reservoir cap than hacking it with a 3/8 barb fitting and using 3/8 pvc hose from depot. as long as your using pressurized air and no fluid, it can leak with no problems you just need to be able to get the master res. over 5 psi and stay there for a bit, and not more than 15 psi.
Build your own pressure bleeder out of a 1 gallon garden sprayer, a male ended air hose fitting, couple feet of clear tubing, and a Help! resivoir cap. I had the sprayer already, so it only cost me $10.
that's the cheapest way while being reliable, otherwise buy a power bleeder like the motive with their cap to fit your reservoir.
the problem with "gravity bleeding" is simple logic. take a simple bubble level and tilt it to one side, the fluid flows downward while the air bubble floats upward. same thing will happen with air inside the brake line especially at the flex line at the caliper where the line forms a U shape. you need to force the fluid through in order to carry the air through and out the system at the other end. only way gravity bleed would work if there is no air in the system.
vacuum bleeding is pressure bleeding, your still using air pressure to force fluid from the res. down the system where there's lower pressure at the caliper bleeder screw. the problem is you cannot easily reduce the pressure of a large enough volume and then you are collecting brake fluid in a container that's too small. using a power bleeder where you pressurize the master cylinder res. is the best and most reliable way to bleed the system and you can force fluid through the system under enough pressure and flow rate to move air out the system. And you're not limited by the size of the container collecting fluid at the caliper like you are with a vacuum bleeder setup.
with power bleeders like the motive, you do not need to fill the container with brake fluid that will supply the master cyl reservoir with fluid during the bleeding process. just use the motive as an air pressure tank to pressurize the master cyl res. fill the master res. near completely then pressurize and bleed system but stop when the reservoir is about 1/4 full, then just refill it and re-bleed. i just did my 2006 sierra with all new brake hard lines and power bleeding by the method i described, i had fluid at both rear calipers (on a truck) before the master cyl reservoir went down to half. and i did not have to do any special abs bleed procedure either. so i recommend you don't waste your time with any method other than "power" bleeding by pressurizing the master cyl res. the motive bleeder caps are convenient, i have just the one for GM. they are over priced and they will leak so don't use a pressure vessel with brake fluid in it. i haven't done it but i would recommend buying a replacement reservoir cap than hacking it with a 3/8 barb fitting and using 3/8 pvc hose from depot. as long as your using pressurized air and no fluid, it can leak with no problems you just need to be able to get the master res. over 5 psi and stay there for a bit, and not more than 15 psi.
Last edited:
Isn't there a problem with using a garden sprayer to build a bleeder? Won't the pump body be submerged in the brake fluid?
Pumping air into the fluid and then introducing it into the brake system doesn't sound right to me.
Pumping air into the fluid and then introducing it into the brake system doesn't sound right to me.
Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
Build your own pressure bleeder out of a 1 gallon garden sprayer, a male ended air hose fitting, couple feet of clear tubing, and a Help! resivoir cap. I had the sprayer already, so it only cost me $10.
that's the cheapest way while being reliable, otherwise buy a power bleeder like the motive with their cap to fit your reservoir.
the problem with "gravity bleeding" is simple logic. take a simple bubble level and tilt it to one side, the fluid flows downward while the air bubble floats upward. same thing will happen with air inside the brake line especially at the flex line at the caliper where the line forms a U shape. you need to force the fluid through in order to carry the air through and out the system at the other end. only way gravity bleed would work if there is no air in the system.
vacuum bleeding is pressure bleeding, your still using air pressure to force fluid from the res. down the system where there's lower pressure at the caliper bleeder screw. the problem is you cannot easily reduce the pressure of a large enough volume and then you are collecting brake fluid in a container that's too small. using a power bleeder where you pressurize the master cylinder res. is the best and most reliable way to bleed the system and you can force fluid through the system under enough pressure and flow rate to move air out the system. And you're not limited by the size of the container collecting fluid at the caliper like you are with a vacuum bleeder setup.
with power bleeders like the motive, you do not need to fill the container with brake fluid that will supply the master cyl reservoir with fluid during the bleeding process. just use the motive as an air pressure tank to pressurize the master cyl res. fill the master res. near completely then pressurize and bleed system but stop when the reservoir is about 1/4 full, then just refill it and re-bleed. i just did my 2006 sierra with all new brake hard lines and power bleeding by the method i described, i had fluid at both rear calipers (on a truck) before the master cyl reservoir went down to half. and i did not have to do any special abs bleed procedure either. so i recommend you don't waste your time with any method other than "power" bleeding by pressurizing the master cyl res. the motive bleeder caps are convenient, i have just the one for GM. they are over priced and they will leak so don't use a pressure vessel with brake fluid in it. i haven't done it but i would recommend buying a replacement reservoir cap than hacking it with a 3/8 barb fitting and using 3/8 pvc hose from depot. as long as your using pressurized air and no fluid, it can leak with no problems you just need to be able to get the master res. over 5 psi and stay there for a bit, and not more than 15 psi.
I bought the adapter for the MityVac 7201 to use it for vacuum bleeding. Its huge compared to the little container provided on the hand squeeze vacuum pump systems.
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
Build your own pressure bleeder out of a 1 gallon garden sprayer, a male ended air hose fitting, couple feet of clear tubing, and a Help! resivoir cap. I had the sprayer already, so it only cost me $10.
that's the cheapest way while being reliable, otherwise buy a power bleeder like the motive with their cap to fit your reservoir.
the problem with "gravity bleeding" is simple logic. take a simple bubble level and tilt it to one side, the fluid flows downward while the air bubble floats upward. same thing will happen with air inside the brake line especially at the flex line at the caliper where the line forms a U shape. you need to force the fluid through in order to carry the air through and out the system at the other end. only way gravity bleed would work if there is no air in the system.
vacuum bleeding is pressure bleeding, your still using air pressure to force fluid from the res. down the system where there's lower pressure at the caliper bleeder screw. the problem is you cannot easily reduce the pressure of a large enough volume and then you are collecting brake fluid in a container that's too small. using a power bleeder where you pressurize the master cylinder res. is the best and most reliable way to bleed the system and you can force fluid through the system under enough pressure and flow rate to move air out the system. And you're not limited by the size of the container collecting fluid at the caliper like you are with a vacuum bleeder setup.
with power bleeders like the motive, you do not need to fill the container with brake fluid that will supply the master cyl reservoir with fluid during the bleeding process. just use the motive as an air pressure tank to pressurize the master cyl res. fill the master res. near completely then pressurize and bleed system but stop when the reservoir is about 1/4 full, then just refill it and re-bleed. i just did my 2006 sierra with all new brake hard lines and power bleeding by the method i described, i had fluid at both rear calipers (on a truck) before the master cyl reservoir went down to half. and i did not have to do any special abs bleed procedure either. so i recommend you don't waste your time with any method other than "power" bleeding by pressurizing the master cyl res. the motive bleeder caps are convenient, i have just the one for GM. they are over priced and they will leak so don't use a pressure vessel with brake fluid in it. i haven't done it but i would recommend buying a replacement reservoir cap than hacking it with a 3/8 barb fitting and using 3/8 pvc hose from depot. as long as your using pressurized air and no fluid, it can leak with no problems you just need to be able to get the master res. over 5 psi and stay there for a bit, and not more than 15 psi.
I bought the adapter for the MityVac 7201 to use it for vacuum bleeding. Its huge compared to the little container provided on the hand squeeze vacuum pump systems.
Originally Posted By: Donald
I bought the adapter for the MityVac 7201 to use it for vacuum bleeding. Its huge compared to the little container provided on the hand squeeze vacuum pump systems.
I didn't use any adapter for bleeding the brake, I bough 1ft long 1/4" ID hose from a hardware store for 15-20 cents, it is perfectly fit the bleeder screw and connect to the Mityvac via black adapter.
Did you buy this adapter ?
I bought the adapter for the MityVac 7201 to use it for vacuum bleeding. Its huge compared to the little container provided on the hand squeeze vacuum pump systems.
I didn't use any adapter for bleeding the brake, I bough 1ft long 1/4" ID hose from a hardware store for 15-20 cents, it is perfectly fit the bleeder screw and connect to the Mityvac via black adapter.
Did you buy this adapter ?
Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
i just did my 2006 sierra with all new brake hard lines and power bleeding by the method i described, i had fluid at both rear calipers (on a truck) before the master cyl reservoir went down to half. and i did not have to do any special abs bleed procedure either.
I have a 2006 Sierra too and I definitely do not want to have to change out the brake lines ever. That is why I keep the truck Krowned (oil spray).
i just did my 2006 sierra with all new brake hard lines and power bleeding by the method i described, i had fluid at both rear calipers (on a truck) before the master cyl reservoir went down to half. and i did not have to do any special abs bleed procedure either.
I have a 2006 Sierra too and I definitely do not want to have to change out the brake lines ever. That is why I keep the truck Krowned (oil spray).
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Donald
I bought the adapter for the MityVac 7201 to use it for vacuum bleeding. Its huge compared to the little container provided on the hand squeeze vacuum pump systems.
I didn't use any adapter for bleeding the brake, I bough 1ft long 1/4" ID hose from a hardware store for 15-20 cents, it is perfectly fit the bleeder screw and connect to the Mityvac via black adapter.
Did you buy this adapter ?
Yes, thats the one, I like the idea of a valve and it was a reasonable price. But more than your 15-20 cents.
Originally Posted By: Donald
I bought the adapter for the MityVac 7201 to use it for vacuum bleeding. Its huge compared to the little container provided on the hand squeeze vacuum pump systems.
I didn't use any adapter for bleeding the brake, I bough 1ft long 1/4" ID hose from a hardware store for 15-20 cents, it is perfectly fit the bleeder screw and connect to the Mityvac via black adapter.
Did you buy this adapter ?
Yes, thats the one, I like the idea of a valve and it was a reasonable price. But more than your 15-20 cents.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
