Titanium liquid or ester base oil for a turbo modified engine?

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Originally Posted by Chris430s
Originally Posted by Amenhotep
Here is the VOA of the redline

Redline 5w30 VOA

I think you sould read it. Page 2 it's very interesting regarding LSPI.

I perfectly know you tune your engine and as I told you I would try to use a "low sap" oil as your car is DI. But that Readline has Moly and big amout of zddp so it could be a great choice and more reliable than the ardeca


Thank you for your reply
Is that the oil the analysis is referring to:

https://www.redlineoil.com/5w30-motor-oil


I think so, as the 5w30 euro is acea C3 and the high level of calcium are typical A3/B4 olis.
 
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Originally Posted by Chris430s
I also found this interesting analysis done by a guy that owns a honda s2000

http://racings2000.blogspot.com/2015/04/trial-by-torture-ardeca-lubricants-on.html

He sent the oil after use to blackstone for analysis ..but as I am new to oil analysis I don't know what all these analysis numbers means
just the guy that used the oil concludes that is a very good one


Ardeca did great. Low iron & aluminum numbers is excellent there. It held viscosity & TBN nicely.
This could indeed be a great oil. It certainly proved it can result in low wear rates.
 
Hello again a quick update and a question..

I went for redline 5w30 ester oil...put it on my car on may...and did around 2000 kilometers
Last week i got an engine code fault warning and after going to a dealer service workshop the code turned out to be a warning about slug-ash in the valves
My car has only 26000km and once a year i add a cleaning injection-valves additive on my fuel tank

Could this have been caused by the redline oil and not being a c2 spec oil?
 
Originally Posted by Chris430s
Hello again a quick update and a question..

I went for redline 5w30 ester oil...put it on my car on may...and did around 2000 kilometers
Last week i got an engine code fault warning and after going to a dealer service workshop the code turned out to be a warning about slug-ash in the valves
My car has only 26000km and once a year i add a cleaning injection-valves additive on my fuel tank

Could this have been caused by the redline oil and not being a c2 spec oil?


Well it's a direct injection engine so a valve cleaning additive won't actually achieve anything. Your injection is occurring directly into the cylinder/combustion chamber whereas with older port injection style engines the injection happens in the inlet tract and the fuel air mix passes over the back of the valve helping to keep it clean. One issue some direct injection engines have is build up of ash in the inlet and on the back of valves normally from the PCV system venting back into the inlet. Given your car is modified this probably makes the issue worse. Higher blow by with more contaminants making there way into the sump and then back to the inlet.

I don't know enough about all the oil specs but I doubt the redline is the cause of this, I'd say it's simply a side effect of being direct injection and tuned for higher power. If the build up isn't too bad you can buy intake cleaners that get sprayed into your intake.
 
It's almost never the oil's fault, Chris.

Unless it's a pyramid marketed snake oil, of course. Half the members on this board would have got theirs wadded into a knot if you'd used Amsoil
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I must admit I am not sure about your problem, but I've just read this. So it could be related with the low saps C2 spec

"A poorly functioning CCV would let too much oil vapor into the intake where it coats the intake valves with hardened carbon or sludge (the N54 twin-turbo engine is notorious for this). Auto and oil manufacturers now push oil formulas with low SAPS levels (Sulfated Ash, Phosphorus, and Sulfur), which are supposed to leave fewer carbon deposits. But these oil formulations have lower wear protection at high operating temps"

https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/
 
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