Use it! It's your car, your money. Just don't make me help changing it, paying for it or recycling it.
Thoughts on redline?
- Thread starter BTLew81
- Start date
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
OVERKILL
So you're saying the black Professional bottle is Phillips 66?
https://www.redlineoil.com/professional-series-5w30-motor-oil
Where's your proof of that?
Weren't you present in the last thread where I posted the screenshots of the PDS's?
Anyways, here's the link: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru.../2/new-red-line-professional-series-5w40
The provided link is for 5W40 Diesel oil. I'd like proof that Phillips 66 and Redline are the same in 0w20 and 5W30 SN Plus oil. That's the original topic here.
You obviously haven't read the subsequent replies in this thread
Snaps from the PDS for the 5w-30 have already been posted, which you'd know, if you'd bothered to read before replying.
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
OVERKILL
So you're saying the black Professional bottle is Phillips 66?
https://www.redlineoil.com/professional-series-5w30-motor-oil
Where's your proof of that?
Weren't you present in the last thread where I posted the screenshots of the PDS's?
Anyways, here's the link: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru.../2/new-red-line-professional-series-5w40
The provided link is for 5W40 Diesel oil. I'd like proof that Phillips 66 and Redline are the same in 0w20 and 5W30 SN Plus oil. That's the original topic here.
You obviously haven't read the subsequent replies in this thread
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Originally Posted by kschachn
So what are those quantifiable benefits of esters?
Better miscibility and solubility at lower temperatures ensures better distribution of additives throughout the engine. The greater solubility promotes the cleaning of varnish and sludge. It also has better high temperature protection which is what gives RL their high HTHS ratings. Esters are also excellent seal conditioners.
I thought PAO and/or ester? are in general harsh(er) on seals. Could be wrong but recall SOJ saying something like that. Need to do a search ... Maybe it was just pao.
Originally Posted by kschachn
So what are those quantifiable benefits of esters?
Better miscibility and solubility at lower temperatures ensures better distribution of additives throughout the engine. The greater solubility promotes the cleaning of varnish and sludge. It also has better high temperature protection which is what gives RL their high HTHS ratings. Esters are also excellent seal conditioners.
I thought PAO and/or ester? are in general harsh(er) on seals. Could be wrong but recall SOJ saying something like that. Need to do a search ... Maybe it was just pao.
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Originally Posted by kschachn
So what are those quantifiable benefits of esters?
Better miscibility and solubility at lower temperatures ensures better distribution of additives throughout the engine. The greater solubility promotes the cleaning of varnish and sludge. It also has better high temperature protection which is what gives RL their high HTHS ratings. Esters are also excellent seal conditioners.
I thought PAO and/or ester? are in general harsh(er) on seals. Could be wrong but recall SOJ saying something like that. Need to do a search ... Maybe it was just pao.
I did a search and it is PAO that requires more ester for seal compatibility ... More than group II or III which may not require as much.
Hope I'm not taking things out of context.
From SoJ:
"I know PAO based oils usually contain 5 - 10% Ester to stop elastomer seals drying out ..."
SoJ:
"It was way before my time but I seem to recall the original Mobil 1 oil was all PAO and it was something of a disaster because PAO, on its own, causes seals to shrink and engines to develop leaks. This was fixed by always adding 10 to 15% Ester base oil (esters cause seals to swell and counteracts the shrinking caused by neat PAO). Other than that, I can't think why PAO would be a bad lubricant."
From Tom NJ:
"Motor oil formulators have used esters for many years for additive solubility, seal compatibility, and to a lessor extent lubricity and Noack enhancement, but they cry about the price in this highly competitive market. PAO formulations pretty much require a polar component for these reasons, but most Group IIIs and IIs are considered acceptable without esters, or with a tiny dose."
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Originally Posted by kschachn
So what are those quantifiable benefits of esters?
Better miscibility and solubility at lower temperatures ensures better distribution of additives throughout the engine. The greater solubility promotes the cleaning of varnish and sludge. It also has better high temperature protection which is what gives RL their high HTHS ratings. Esters are also excellent seal conditioners.
I thought PAO and/or ester? are in general harsh(er) on seals. Could be wrong but recall SOJ saying something like that. Need to do a search ... Maybe it was just pao.
I did a search and it is PAO that requires more ester for seal compatibility ... More than group II or III which may not require as much.
Hope I'm not taking things out of context.
From SoJ:
"I know PAO based oils usually contain 5 - 10% Ester to stop elastomer seals drying out ..."
SoJ:
"It was way before my time but I seem to recall the original Mobil 1 oil was all PAO and it was something of a disaster because PAO, on its own, causes seals to shrink and engines to develop leaks. This was fixed by always adding 10 to 15% Ester base oil (esters cause seals to swell and counteracts the shrinking caused by neat PAO). Other than that, I can't think why PAO would be a bad lubricant."
From Tom NJ:
"Motor oil formulators have used esters for many years for additive solubility, seal compatibility, and to a lessor extent lubricity and Noack enhancement, but they cry about the price in this highly competitive market. PAO formulations pretty much require a polar component for these reasons, but most Group IIIs and IIs are considered acceptable without esters, or with a tiny dose."
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
OVERKILL
So you're saying the black Professional bottle is Phillips 66?
https://www.redlineoil.com/professional-series-5w30-motor-oil
Where's your proof of that?
Weren't you present in the last thread where I posted the screenshots of the PDS's?
Anyways, here's the link: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru.../2/new-red-line-professional-series-5w40
The provided link is for 5W40 Diesel oil. I'd like proof that Phillips 66 and Redline are the same in 0w20 and 5W30 SN Plus oil. That's the original topic here.
You obviously haven't read the subsequent replies in this thread
Snaps from the PDS for the 5w-30 have already been posted, which you'd know, if you'd bothered to read before replying.
I cannot click-on a Snap. Do you have a link?
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
OVERKILL
So you're saying the black Professional bottle is Phillips 66?
https://www.redlineoil.com/professional-series-5w30-motor-oil
Where's your proof of that?
Weren't you present in the last thread where I posted the screenshots of the PDS's?
Anyways, here's the link: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru.../2/new-red-line-professional-series-5w40
The provided link is for 5W40 Diesel oil. I'd like proof that Phillips 66 and Redline are the same in 0w20 and 5W30 SN Plus oil. That's the original topic here.
You obviously haven't read the subsequent replies in this thread
I cannot click-on a Snap. Do you have a link?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
I cannot click-on a Snap. Do you have a link?
The product names are clearly in the screen shots, I'm quite certain you know how to operate a web browser.
I cannot click-on a Snap. Do you have a link?
The product names are clearly in the screen shots, I'm quite certain you know how to operate a web browser.
Originally Posted by OilUzer
I did a search and it is PAO that requires more ester for seal compatibility ... More than group II or III which may not require as much.
Hope I'm not taking things out of context.
From SoJ:
"I know PAO based oils usually contain 5 - 10% Ester to stop elastomer seals drying out ..."
SoJ:
"It was way before my time but I seem to recall the original Mobil 1 oil was all PAO and it was something of a disaster because PAO, on its own, causes seals to shrink and engines to develop leaks. This was fixed by always adding 10 to 15% Ester base oil (esters cause seals to swell and counteracts the shrinking caused by neat PAO). Other than that, I can't think why PAO would be a bad lubricant."
From Tom NJ:
"Motor oil formulators have used esters for many years for additive solubility, seal compatibility, and to a lessor extent lubricity and Noack enhancement, but they cry about the price in this highly competitive market. PAO formulations pretty much require a polar component for these reasons, but most Group IIIs and IIs are considered acceptable without esters, or with a tiny dose."
They're exactly right. Another thing to add is that group II oils are also limited a bit in their use of esters due to them usually always requiring viscosity modifiers to make multi-grades. Heavy polymers like OCP, the most common viscosity modifiers, don't blend well with ester. It's about the only thing that won't easily solubilize in ester. Small doses of both isn't a concern but 10+% of both can create problems. You'll look at the oil after it sitting for a while and find a clear layer on top from where the VII has separated from the ester. Blending in group I as an additive carrier is preferred in conventional oils for this reason, but also because it's much cheaper.
Coming back full circle to oil formulas being a careful balancing act.
I did a search and it is PAO that requires more ester for seal compatibility ... More than group II or III which may not require as much.
Hope I'm not taking things out of context.
From SoJ:
"I know PAO based oils usually contain 5 - 10% Ester to stop elastomer seals drying out ..."
SoJ:
"It was way before my time but I seem to recall the original Mobil 1 oil was all PAO and it was something of a disaster because PAO, on its own, causes seals to shrink and engines to develop leaks. This was fixed by always adding 10 to 15% Ester base oil (esters cause seals to swell and counteracts the shrinking caused by neat PAO). Other than that, I can't think why PAO would be a bad lubricant."
From Tom NJ:
"Motor oil formulators have used esters for many years for additive solubility, seal compatibility, and to a lessor extent lubricity and Noack enhancement, but they cry about the price in this highly competitive market. PAO formulations pretty much require a polar component for these reasons, but most Group IIIs and IIs are considered acceptable without esters, or with a tiny dose."
They're exactly right. Another thing to add is that group II oils are also limited a bit in their use of esters due to them usually always requiring viscosity modifiers to make multi-grades. Heavy polymers like OCP, the most common viscosity modifiers, don't blend well with ester. It's about the only thing that won't easily solubilize in ester. Small doses of both isn't a concern but 10+% of both can create problems. You'll look at the oil after it sitting for a while and find a clear layer on top from where the VII has separated from the ester. Blending in group I as an additive carrier is preferred in conventional oils for this reason, but also because it's much cheaper.
Coming back full circle to oil formulas being a careful balancing act.
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
I cannot click-on a Snap. Do you have a link?
The product names are clearly in the screen shots, I'm quite certain you know how to operate a web browser.
ROFLMAO!
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
I cannot click-on a Snap. Do you have a link?
The product names are clearly in the screen shots, I'm quite certain you know how to operate a web browser.
ROFLMAO!
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted by D1dad
So paying more for oil at Walmart and paying blackstone to see how cheap overpriced oil performed isn't what could be considered wasting money? I'm just trying to get the flow around here because I've never seen more people waste money driving to Walmart to take pictures of oil to send to blackstone to tell you the same thing they told you last time they charged you $20.
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Originally Posted by RazorsEdge
Originally Posted by BTLew81
Seriously...forget I asked. Wow...
Sad isn't it? This forum has turned into "only get your oil and filters for a reasonable priceat Walmart or on-sale just about anywhere, including auto parts stores when on clearance, Amazon, etc. or with rebate"
I fixed that for you...
Not all of us have money burning holes in our pockets.
Did you misquote me, because I'm not following your post...
I have recently purchased most of my oil from Amazon, on-sale, not from Walmart.
What is "cheap overpriced oil"? Is it cheap or is it overpriced
What does, "people waste money driving to Walmart to take pictures of oil to send to blackstone" mean? Either you meant 'samples' to be sent to Blackstone or you don't know what Blackstone actually does.
So paying more for oil at Walmart and paying blackstone to see how cheap overpriced oil performed isn't what could be considered wasting money? I'm just trying to get the flow around here because I've never seen more people waste money driving to Walmart to take pictures of oil to send to blackstone to tell you the same thing they told you last time they charged you $20.
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Originally Posted by RazorsEdge
Originally Posted by BTLew81
Seriously...forget I asked. Wow...
Sad isn't it? This forum has turned into "only get your oil and filters for a reasonable priceat Walmart or on-sale just about anywhere, including auto parts stores when on clearance, Amazon, etc. or with rebate"
I fixed that for you...
Not all of us have money burning holes in our pockets.
Did you misquote me, because I'm not following your post...
I have recently purchased most of my oil from Amazon, on-sale, not from Walmart.
What is "cheap overpriced oil"? Is it cheap or is it overpriced
What does, "people waste money driving to Walmart to take pictures of oil to send to blackstone" mean? Either you meant 'samples' to be sent to Blackstone or you don't know what Blackstone actually does.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted by Olas
Casio and Audemar Piquet both make watches that tell the time - one costs less than a single quart of M1, and the other costs more than some houses. Guess which one is better?
If they both tell time, then I'll say that the Casio is better.
I own a Casio and way more expensive Citizen watch. Guess which one never gets worn to work and is little more than a piece of bling?
Unlike the Casio, which gets banged up and needs replacing with another $20 watch every couple of years, the Citizen will likely last forever, based on how it's treated. It would also be great to say that I purchased the Citizen watch because I like bling. I didn't; it was a gift that I wouldn't ever purchase myself, but don't mind wearing on occasion. I'm not a man to wear jewelry; however, I wear a watch 24/7. When I dress up for events my wife deems important I'll also wear the watch she bought me way back when.
In comparison, your engine will also likely last the life of the vehicle, regardless of whether you use high-end OTS oils or pay 50-100% more for something boutique. Heck, your engine will likely last the life of the vehicle, even if you use the cheapest correctly-spec'd oil you can find or get on-sale, as many here seem to do.
Casio and Audemar Piquet both make watches that tell the time - one costs less than a single quart of M1, and the other costs more than some houses. Guess which one is better?
If they both tell time, then I'll say that the Casio is better.
I own a Casio and way more expensive Citizen watch. Guess which one never gets worn to work and is little more than a piece of bling?
Unlike the Casio, which gets banged up and needs replacing with another $20 watch every couple of years, the Citizen will likely last forever, based on how it's treated. It would also be great to say that I purchased the Citizen watch because I like bling. I didn't; it was a gift that I wouldn't ever purchase myself, but don't mind wearing on occasion. I'm not a man to wear jewelry; however, I wear a watch 24/7. When I dress up for events my wife deems important I'll also wear the watch she bought me way back when.
In comparison, your engine will also likely last the life of the vehicle, regardless of whether you use high-end OTS oils or pay 50-100% more for something boutique. Heck, your engine will likely last the life of the vehicle, even if you use the cheapest correctly-spec'd oil you can find or get on-sale, as many here seem to do.
Originally Posted by BTLew81
Seriously...forget I asked. Wow...
Dude, didn't you know already? Redline is the DEVIL on this forum. My 4runner is possessed and will remain that way til I part with her. She's named Raegan btw
Seriously...forget I asked. Wow...
Dude, didn't you know already? Redline is the DEVIL on this forum. My 4runner is possessed and will remain that way til I part with her. She's named Raegan btw
some people are just miserable with no life or very bad life so they take their frustration on others,besides feel sorry for them dont pay attention OP, and for your question redline makes one of the truly best oils but you dont really need it unless you have a high performance car that gest track time,use m1,Castrol or any other name brand with the right spec and intervals,use a good fiter and sleep well.
I used m1 in my cts changed to rl and felt no difference.
I used m1 in my cts changed to rl and felt no difference.
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Only thing I've taken from this post is, I had no idea
RL is now part of Phil66. Not a fan of ConocoPhillips at all !!
ConocoPhillips and Phillips 66 are two different companies. They split in 2012.
Only thing I've taken from this post is, I had no idea
RL is now part of Phil66. Not a fan of ConocoPhillips at all !!
ConocoPhillips and Phillips 66 are two different companies. They split in 2012.
Originally Posted by OilReport99
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Only thing I've taken from this post is, I had no idea
RL is now part of Phil66. Not a fan of ConocoPhillips at all !!
ConocoPhillips and Phillips 66 are two different companies. They split in 2012.
Shows how much I keep up with ConocoPhillips and Phillips 66
Thanks for the info
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Only thing I've taken from this post is, I had no idea
RL is now part of Phil66. Not a fan of ConocoPhillips at all !!
ConocoPhillips and Phillips 66 are two different companies. They split in 2012.
Shows how much I keep up with ConocoPhillips and Phillips 66
Thanks for the info
Still don't understand what Redline does better than other oils of lets say - half the price.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted by avi1777
some people are just miserable with no life or very bad life so they take their frustration on others,besides feel sorry for them dont pay attention OP, and for your question redline makes one of the truly best oils but you dont really need it unless you have a high performance car that gest track time,use m1,Castrol or any other name brand with the right spec and intervals,use a good fiter and sleep well.
I used m1 in my cts changed to rl and felt no difference.
Are you reading something I'm not. No one is bashing the OP and not one of us is miserable over OIL. yoshke krist!
You're telling the OP to ignore those of us who poopoo on the OP for simply wanting to try Redline just for the sake of trying it, then say, "you dont (sic) really need it unless you have a high performance car..." Make up your mind, homie.
some people are just miserable with no life or very bad life so they take their frustration on others,besides feel sorry for them dont pay attention OP, and for your question redline makes one of the truly best oils but you dont really need it unless you have a high performance car that gest track time,use m1,Castrol or any other name brand with the right spec and intervals,use a good fiter and sleep well.
I used m1 in my cts changed to rl and felt no difference.
Are you reading something I'm not. No one is bashing the OP and not one of us is miserable over OIL. yoshke krist!
You're telling the OP to ignore those of us who poopoo on the OP for simply wanting to try Redline just for the sake of trying it, then say, "you dont (sic) really need it unless you have a high performance car..." Make up your mind, homie.
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