Thoughts About Motorcyle Oil In Lawn Mower

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Motorcycle oil will not hurt a lawn mower. Motorcycles go well over 100K miles on motorcycle oil. The mower deck will rust out and the wheels will fall off before the engine has an oil related problem related to motorcycle oil.
My deck is cast aluminum and I have already replaced the wheels.
 
JASO MA is a japanese spec, especially for motorcycles with wet clutch.
It is about decreasing clutch slippage, its main requirements are static and dynamic friction coefficients. Some friction modifiers ( those that make the oil less slippery) may be added, or others (those that make the oil more slippery) may be omitted to meet those friction coefficient requirements.

All I am saying that JASO seems to have no benefit for a small OPE, which does not have a wet clutch, so why have it? JASO ==> Higher friction, that cant be good if you do not need it. But who knows, maybe JASO is irrelevant for these engines, I do not have enough insight to make that call. I just tend to be conservative.

If I want high level of anti-wear additives, there are other ways to get it.
An there is such a thing as too high anti-wear additive level.
 
I ran out of Honda ope 10w30 that was speced for a Honda mower I bought a couple of years ago. No mention of syn or blend on the bottles. I think that was SN rated. I switched to a Super Tech 10w30 full syn that they market as ATV oil. No mention of ATV's in print on the label, but it has a graphic of them on the label. It's also JASO MA2 and API SL. $5.04 a qt. online. Not sure how hard it is to find on a shelf. I plan on using it in my old Tecumseh powered snowblower as well. I used to use straight 30 for ever in mowers, Current 10w30 car oils don't give me a good feeling in a snow blower.
 
Hank2,
In a snowblower, a lower winter viscosity oil may be useful for easy cold weather starts. Somethin like a 0w40 or 5w40. Maybe a 5w30.
The 1st (winter) number makes no difference once you reached operating temperature, it is strictly a cold start thing. I am a fan of heavier oils
and full synthetics, can you tell? :) They are certainly no worse than the traditional oils, or the blends, and arguably have some extra thermal/sheer stability. The heavier summer viscosity oils tend to not have the strict ZDDP limits imposed by the newer CAFE inspired standards (800ppm max)
Ideally, I like to have > 1200 ppm zddp.

After pondering the topic for a bit , I ended up putting 15w50 (non-racing) Redline in my Kawi ZT. Redline is of well known composition, ester base stock, with high level of anti-wear additives. I cant really tell if it makes much difference, other than it seems to run on the average 20 degrees cooler, and it runs a bit quieter than it was with the factory fill.

The JASO cert does not really buy you anything, that is mostly targeted for improved wet clutch operation, which neither the mower nor the snow blower has.
 
Good points. I haven't had any trouble with a 10w30 oil in snow blowers but I'm not starting them in sub zero temps either. Some years back, the zddp was lowered in all auto oils with the x40 or x50 weights exempted. Then the x40's were also lowered, except motorcycle specific oils. Not sure how much is really needed in old flathead equipment, but I would think that it would be good for something sees high temps with limited air cooling and splash lubrication. Maybe not on newer stuff with plastic camshafts and pressure lubing etc.?

I would guess that the JASO rating on ST's atv 10w30 is covering it for the few motorcycle's that may spec 10W30. I recall that the Honda Goldwings did. I'm not familiar with ATV requirements. It also clears the way for older spec zddp levels and ratings for non auto use. Using an auto rated, non JASO 0wX or 5wX for power equipment or motorcycles would not be a good idea. Excepted, perhaps some 5w40 diesel oil or off road "race" oil.
 
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