Thoughts About Motorcyle Oil In Lawn Mower

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I was browsing Walmart's website today, and 2 oils interested me. They are both about 5 dollars a quart. Would these work "better" than the 10w30 I'm using? They are about the same price, I'm just looking at my options for next oil change.
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I was thinking about the same thing. Then last week I spotted 30 weight conventional Supertech lawnmower oil on the shelf for $3.97 and bought that.
 
Quite the opposite is actually the case! Motorcycle oil is usually much higher in ZDDP (Zn and P mainly, but also often Bo or Mo) as well as in detergents (Ca) and can often be an excellent choice for small engines.
The friction modifiers being referred to here are the ones that are required to get the "energy conserving" starburst. The same ones that hurt wet clutch performance. These oil listed above are surely JASO MA certified for wet clutch performance. Small engines dont need energy conserving oil, they dont need to retain wet clutch performance.

FarmForce is correct that motorcycle oils contain more ZDDP which certainly isn't a bad thing for small engines with plain bearings and flat tappets
 
The friction modifiers being referred to here are the ones that are required to get the "energy conserving" starburst. The same ones that hurt wet clutch performance. These oil listed above are surely JASO MA certified for wet clutch performance. Small engines dont need energy conserving oil, they dont need to retain wet clutch performance.

FarmForce is correct that motorcycle oils contain more ZDDP which certainly isn't a bad thing for small engines with plain bearings and flat tappets
I want to gently push back on this statement. Energy conserving starburst does not come from friction modifiers but from the viscosity and characteristics of the base oil. I am not aware of additives and have never seen any show up in any VOA to specifically enhancing wet clutch drivetrains. I am aware that there are friction modifiers are used to bring ATF fluids to manufacturer specs and these modifiers are available. e.G. friction modifiers to make certain Dexron or Mercon oils suitable to use in Chrysler transmissions. Otherwise, you get converter clutch shudder on lock up.

Also, "classic" friction modifiers such as ZDDP had to be removed to about half the level that we found in SJ oils for catalytic converter warranty periods. If you are looking for the most ZDDP and detergents there is one choice above all others and that is Redline. No other oil analysis I have seen reaches their levels of these additives. Not saying this is making it the best oil, but Redline has more of these additives than any other widely available oil.
 
ZDDP isn't a friction modifier. It is an anti-wear agent and anti-oxidant.

An argument could be made that it is a friction modifier in the sense that it is a surface active additive and anything on the surface will alter friction characteristics, but that effect from ZDDP is minuscule by comparison to actual friction modifiers.
 
All my small engines, non catalytic, get a shot of Lucas zinc plus cam break-in ZDDP additive every synth. oil change.
Overkill, maybe but my 25 yr. old 14 hp Briggs is still going strong, no smoke and no issues.
 
Quite the opposite is actually the case! Motorcycle oil is usually much higher in ZDDP (Zn and P mainly, but also often Bo or Mo) as well as in detergents (Ca) and can often be an excellent choice for small engines.
Well you go ahead and use it then and I'll continue using an automotive oil lawnmower
 
Motorcycle oil is not the same as car oil....it lacks friction modifiers
Quite the opposite is actually the case! Motorcycle oil is usually much higher in ZDDP (Zn and P mainly, but also often Bo or Mo) as well as in detergents (Ca) and can often be an excellent choice for small engines.
I've used MC oils in my ope in the past, worked fine.

They do have more zinc and antiwear, but not more friction modifiers. Zinc is an antiwear , helps form a triblofilm. Friction modifiers are things like MoDTC, and esters.
 
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