it is, especially for trucks. 100k for a truck is half of what a new one is. so you're paying the same amount as the first person (they got half back on trade) and you have to do all the maintenance. they drove it and just did oil and tires.
Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in
- Thread starter Patman
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2020
- Messages
- 156
Here’s a co workers F150 with over 700k. Truck is on its 2nd engine and 3rd transmission. He got it for free.
Just updated my sig. The Odyssey, like others in this thread recently, has the dreaded VCM issue. We bought the van at about 220k miles and it had the steering wheel shake at 70mph at that time. When purchased I just chalked it up to tires or alignment but neither solved the problem. That's when I learned things about it here and on the Odyssey boards. Since then I've used m1 0w40 euro which has helped quite a bit. I rarely have a shake anymore and even when it does it's much milder than how violent it was at first. I'm hoping to totally eliminate it despite reading about how once you get the wheel shake the "damage has been done."
I don't change the oil at a set mileage but rather about 2-3 times a year, keeping an eye on the level. It's burning very little, if any, and runs like a top. I did the trans fluid at about 250k as I didn't know when it was last done. What came out still looked new so I think the previous owner was on top of that. I did just have a timing tensioner going bad, so we had a new belt, tensioner, and water pump put in too. It's been an awesome vehicle and I'd recommend it to anyone so long as the VCM issues aren't badly present when you buy it.
I don't change the oil at a set mileage but rather about 2-3 times a year, keeping an eye on the level. It's burning very little, if any, and runs like a top. I did the trans fluid at about 250k as I didn't know when it was last done. What came out still looked new so I think the previous owner was on top of that. I did just have a timing tensioner going bad, so we had a new belt, tensioner, and water pump put in too. It's been an awesome vehicle and I'd recommend it to anyone so long as the VCM issues aren't badly present when you buy it.
Last several vehicles have had well in excess of 150 k miles, one over 250 k. I change oil with whatever fully synthetic I find on sale that meets manufacturer's specifications for the vehicle. I typically stay with a 5 k change interval as the vehicles all get driven at least 15-20 K annually, inclusive of regular long distance road trips of 2 k miles or more. Lab analysis of oil at about 50 k intervals on all always shows plenty of additive package left and no measurable wear indicators or contamination; these analyses have somehow been performed after long intervals of up to 8800 miles between changes due to being on the road, so I feel confident the 5 k baseline gives me plenty of reserve just in case. I use good quality filters that attain OEM specs and are designed for longer change intervals, such as the NAPA Gold/Wix partners, Purolator, Hengst, or AC, depending on the vehicle. For whatever it's worth. In my opinion grease is cheaper than steel.
I guess I am one of the select few... currently I replaced my fleet of 3 vehicles in the 2016 2017 range... I am retired so I dont drive much anymore... that said the low current mileage vehicle has 85k, the next one up is at 96k and my truck has 140k and none of them show any signs they are on their way to the boneyard.
as far as the 200k mark goes, prior to my current fleet replacement I've had one car go past 300 and its failure was my fault that had nothing to do with oil, and 4 cars/trucks and 2 motorcycles past the 200k mark.. that's in the period between 2000 and 2017. Funniest tidbit to note is the car past 300k was a Chevy Cavalier which is generally thought of as being a POS. Other tidbit is 3 out of 4 were bought used , and two of those were past 100k when I bought them. I think the only car I used that didn't hit 170k was a Hyundai Accent I paid 800 dollars for... I sold it and it still ran... drove an 800 dollar car for four years, put about 90k on it and sold it for 600.. other thing funny about the Hyundai was although I had it for four years I don't remember changing the oil in it... I know I did, but I don't even remember doing it...
I think it just comes down to maintenance and repairs, and driving like a responsible adult more than anything else.
FWIW I changed the oil every 10 miles on the fleet of heaps, using a low cost synthetic like in my Avatar and the cheapest filter on the shelf.
Ditto.
1979 Subaru DL. EA71S swap (Factory racing engine from FJ1600). Unknown number of miles on engine prior to my ownership. Set up with single Holley 1904 carb on ported and modified single carb intake. GM HEI ignition module, Ford TFI coil, Denso distributor. EA62 oil pump with shimmed relief and Ford Racing 90 degree oil filter adapter. I put about 185,000 miles on it so far. Requires a valve adjustment every 10,000 miles because of the huge cam (305/305 advertised, I think, and unknown lift). Has titanium valve spring retainers. Power is 115 HP@6700 RPM, powerband starts at around 4000 RPM. 95% highway miles average cruising RPM 4,000. Oil temp runs around 100°C at that speed. Oil filters used are mostly Premium Guard PG4651EX, some Fram XG2/FE2/FS2, some old style Ford Racing FL820s, Sierra Marine 18-7758, and the occasional Fram Racing equivalent of the PH2. Oil used varies. Winter is usually Mobil 1 FS X2 5W-50, Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50, Mobil 1 Supercar 5W-50, Amsoil Signature 5W-50. Summer has been in the past, Mobil 1 15W50, Aeroshell W15W-50, Phillips 66 Victory 20W-50, Aeroshell 120, Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50, Total Quartz Racing 10W-60, Castrol TWS 10W-60, Total Quartz Ineo Racing 10W-60, Amsoil 10W-60, Amsoil Premium Protection 20W-50, Quicksilver 25W-50, among others.
Currently running Mobil 1 FS X2 5W-50, has about 3000 miles on the current oil change. I usually run to about 5000 miles. Any longer and the oil is "cooked". The hot idle oil pressure drops below 20 psi and I know it is time to change the oil. Attached is current oil pressure at hot idle.
Currently running Mobil 1 FS X2 5W-50, has about 3000 miles on the current oil change. I usually run to about 5000 miles. Any longer and the oil is "cooked". The hot idle oil pressure drops below 20 psi and I know it is time to change the oil. Attached is current oil pressure at hot idle.
1998 Buick lesabre bought craigslist beat up 2017 with 93,000 miles on it, now 162,600
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2020
- Messages
- 156
Automatic. Original engine + trans.
Patman
Staff member
I think it's awesome that it has been close to 20 years since I first posted this thread and it's still getting attention! 
And a lot has changed in 20 years too, I considered 150,000 miles to be high mileage back then but that seems to be a milestone that's pretty readily achievable with most vehicles. Even 250k isn't a tough thing to achieve these days.
And a lot has changed in 20 years too, I considered 150,000 miles to be high mileage back then but that seems to be a milestone that's pretty readily achievable with most vehicles. Even 250k isn't a tough thing to achieve these days.
I think it's awesome that it has been close to 20 years since I first posted this thread and it's still getting attention!
Things change, and then they change again . In the 1950’s thru the mid 1970’s my parents wouldn’t even consider trading in the family car if it had under 200,000 to 250,000 miles on it. Most used cars on the dealership lots were above 200,000 miles as well.
We didn’t do any special maintenance other than the usual oil change at 3,000 miles and a timing check at 7,500 miles. Those cars, all Ford or Chevy, went cross country numerous times without a hitch.
Z
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2020
- Messages
- 156
It’s official:
This thing just passed 150k. Almost nothing driveline related is stock tho, so idk if it counts haha
Most I put on a single vehicle was my new sold 2009 Prius with 252,000km. I exclusively ran Amsoil SS since break-in was finished at 20,000km. I had to use OEM Toyota oil filters until Amsoil had a filter about 2 years later.
I never had any engine related issues, never any internal cleaning needed, sludging, gelling etc. That is also in a severe service situation, with extremely long cold winters as well.
Similar threads
