Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

[Revving2Redline]

As long as you maintain the vehicle and you stay on top of oil changes and other fluid changes

it's a 33.33 % trinity....1) Gotta be on the ball and prophylactic on maintenance especially if one part is suspect to break. ( I feel the CVT is the weak link, so I blanket it with Redline CVT fluid/Hotshot Shift Restore.)
2). How you operate it, the roads it journeys, and how you drive it.
3). Who made it? I'm a big fan of Japanese engineering and I just have better luck with their cars. I think Honda,Toyota and Mazda are my favourite.

Final thoughts ....fluid is cheap vs a motor or transmission. There is really no such thing as overkill when it comes to lubricants. People told me long ago that Redline 0w20 was too much for most daily drivers, but after seeing and using boutique oils/additives it's easier to see that the OTC are not meant for 10k oci nor endurance racing.

 

[Bullwinkle007]

it's a 33.33 % trinity....1) Gotta be on the ball and prophylactic on maintenance especially if one part is suspect to break. ( I feel the CVT is the weak link, so I blanket it with Redline CVT fluid/Hotshot Shift Restore.)
2). How you operate it, the roads it journeys, and how you drive it.
3). Who made it? I'm a big fan of Japanese engineering and I just have better luck with their cars. I think Honda,Toyota and Mazda are my favourite.

Final thoughts ....fluid is cheap vs a motor or transmission. There is really no such thing as overkill when it comes to lubricants. People told me long ago that Redline 0w20 was too much for most daily drivers, but after seeing and using boutique oils/additives it's easier to see that the OTC are not meant for 10k oci nor endurance racing.

So out of the 2 of my Acuras. One has a 6sp automatic. That gets RL D6 ATF, along with 75/90 for the transfer case, my RDX. Only Honda Type 2. No aftermarket available. The dealer services that trans bc it’s a mother. For them to D&R x3 is $311. $129 for the transfer case. They can do that do bc it’s a mother without a lift. It doesn’t sit low like the MDX

 

[Bighorn2500]

The Ram has 172k on it, drivetrain will outlast everything considering how the Michigan road salt beats the hell out of the frame and body on all vehicles driven in this state.

 

[Revving2Redline]

296000

 

[Revving2Redline]

297,000

 

[Denso1501008]

207K miles 2015 Acura TLX 2.4

0 - 60K: dealership bulk oil ~15K OCI
60K - 166K: Kirkland 0W-20; PH7317 ~ 7-8K OCI
166K - current: Valvoline 5W-30HM; PH7317 ~ 7-8K OCI

 

[Revving2Redline]

298000

 

[Nitronoise]

wifes 2005 Honda Accord 177 k on the clock should have my lab back tommorow from black stone , been a rock sold ride for my wife
car has been on a steady diet of QSUD 5W30

 

[newtoncd8]

302,700 miles on our RX330

 

[doublebase]

298000

Did you put 8,000 miles on that car in a month??!!

What do you do? You a courier or something? Huge commute? You’re almost putting 2,000 miles a week on that thing! Keep us posted, love the high mileage stories.

 

[Revving2Redline]

299,000

 

[Revving2Redline]

Did you put 8,000 miles on that car in a month??!!

What do you do? You a courier or something? Huge commute? You’re almost putting 2,000 miles a week on that thing! Keep us posted, love the high mileage stories.

My other help in nursing and I take turns using car.

 

[Revving2Redline]

My other help in nursing and I take turns using car.

My other half, significant other is a nurse. I guess she is the help too

 

[88m53453]

over 265,000 on my 2015 Chevy Silverado 5.3 crew cab.

 

[cvlw]

2013 Mazda 6 2.5 Touring with 157,000+ miles
Averages 30+ mpg (when purchased, averaged about 28 mpg, more on that later)
Purchased in 2016 with 10,000 miles on it. Was a barely-used lease car.
From 10k -60k miles really only had oil changes at 5k intervals. Went to the car shop near where I work. The shop used Castrol. I imagine it was whatever bulk offering.
At about 60k, the shop near work changed ownership and so I switched to using the car shop in my town. I got to know the owner very well. He and his techs are car enthusiasts.
I have done 5k intervals at this shop from 60k miles, so, almost 100k miles at this shop. They were a Thrive shop, but due to supplier issues, bounced between Ridgeline and Cam2, finally settling on Cam2 for the foreseeable future.
At ~60k I started trans drain/fill with Amsoil SS ATF. Really at this point, the mileage went up to 30+ consistently. The shop does the draining/filling. I can do a modest siphon/fill of the ATF once or twice a year to keep things away from that not-so-fresh feeling.
At ~60k, I started doing siphon/fills of the power steering with Royal Purple ATF until Amsoil SS ATF became off-the-shelf at a local box store.
At ~90k, I replaced the plugs. Will do again this spring, whatever miles that will be.
At ~100k I had them flush/fill the coolant with Pentosin A3. Will do this again at 200k, but, will likely have them replace the thermostat and then do a super-flush and convert to G05. Replacing the thermostat is non-trivial on this car.
Cabin filter is replaced every couple of years. Easy to do from within the glove box.
Intake air filter is replaced mostly every year. I don't often drive in dusty conditions so am extending this a bit.
The tires have been replaced twice. This model does not allow rear camber adjustment/alignment (I think) and so the tires wear on the inside rear. This is apparently by design. I think that is crap. My mech calls it "mazda chop." My mech has identified an aftermarket parts replacement that does allow adjustment but is a rather expensive thing to do.
Numerous replacements of low-beam bulbs. Had my mech get premium Sylvania replacements to stop this insanity. Replacing the bulbs is non-trivial.
I think that is about it.
Thanks for reading this boring diatribe.
Clint

 

[M1Accord]

2002 Accord V6 3.0 liter with 200k of 10k Mobil 1 OCI. Currently running 10k OCI Costco 5W20.

2012 Fit I-4 1.5 liter with 160k of 10k Mobil 1 OCI . Currently running 10k OCI Costco 0W20.

The only flaw with Honda V6 is they use timing belt instead of chain.

 

[Artem]

@M1Accord — how is a timing belt a flaw?

Easy to replace every 100k miles and you NEVER have to worry if the chain is possibly stretching and you’ll soon be greeted with camshaft timing codes and bent valves as it gets worse.

 

[Old Gearhead]

I'm posting this in this section instead of the General section because it definitely has a lot to do with lubrication.

I just wanted to see how many people here have over 150,000 miles on their original engines, to see what kind of oil you've been using and what kind of intervals.

We talk about a lot of different oils on here, and critique a lot of UOAs, but the absolute best way to find out if any particular routine works, is to look at those people who have had success with it by getting long life from their engine! That is truly what we are all trying to achieve here.

So if you've owned your car since new (or at least know the exact prior history of it from new), please step in and give us your input!

I think this could be a very interesting topic!

2001 Toyota Avalon, believe it or not, as of today 301,400 on original engine and transmission. Neither engine or transmission have ever been rebuilt. Its not mine, my sisters. Toyota maintenance was followed as directed in 2001 owners manual, with whatever the dealership oil they were offering (no synthetic oil). Personally I am totally amazed as she continues to drive it! Everything still works including the heated seats and cold A/C.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

299,000

And need to update the signature. It's at least 7000 miles behind.

3x what my '17 Accord LX 6MT has. I'm at 99500-ish this morning driving home.

Daughters '08 CRV is at 228k
Sons '10 Forte is at 178k.

 

[dwcars]

I'm posting this in this section instead of the General section because it definitely has a lot to do with lubrication.

I just wanted to see how many people here have over 150,000 miles on their original engines, to see what kind of oil you've been using and what kind of intervals.

We talk about a lot of different oils on here, and critique a lot of UOAs, but the absolute best way to find out if any particular routine works, is to look at those people who have had success with it by getting long life from their engine! That is truly what we are all trying to achieve here.

So if you've owned your car since new (or at least know the exact prior history of it from new), please step in and give us your input!

I think this could be a very interesting topic!

2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature Ltd, 156,266 miles, oil and filter every 8,000 to 10,000 miles using 5W-20 Cam-2 Synavex 100% synthetic. Checking oil before draining and have never found it to have used even the tiniest drop. I love the 4.6 engine and Cam-2 motor oil~!
How many of you are old enough to remember the mid-60s? Remember when it was rumored that Chryslers had soft crankshafts? I bought a new '65 Dodge Polara 500 in December of '64 and ran Atlantic Imperial 5W-20 year round. Never had a problem~!!!!