Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

Our 2003 Cavalier had 155k on it when it went to someone else in the family- lived a life of different synthetics and a Delco filter. Cobalt only has 115k, so it has a ways to go.....
 
2001 Buick LeSabre unknown oil first 60,000 miles, 60-250,000 Havoline 10W-30. 250,000 to present, M1 0W-40. Currently at 303,000 miles and runs great. Uses 1/2 qt oil during 6,000 mile oci. Driving locally, needs body repair from suicidal deer that assaulted passenger headlight,fender, and door before diving through right front window into car.
 
We have a 2008 Honda CRV with 153,000 miles on it (my daughter recently inherited it from us last year for college).

I change the oil every 5-6k miles. Change the tranny fluid once a year, coolant every other year. Did the plugs and valve adjustment at 100,000 miles. And just yesterday I replaced the front struts, and front and rear sway bar links (did rear brakes too).

Other than maintenance this has been the most reliable vehicle we have ever owned: knock on wood no check engine lights, or out of pocket repairs besides maintenance. The valves are “loud”...a little too tick tick for me, but it’s doing fine, so I don’t really care.
 
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177,000 + on 1993 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L.

Still Runs great and as clean as can be (we have to pass emmissions here in ATL.) It does use a quart every 1,500 to 2,000 miles but no smoke.

Bought it w 89,000 miles. Since then I have run Valvoline, Mobil Drive Clean, Pennzoil, or whatever was on sale, changed with a Fram Filter every 3k. Mobil had the fastest consumption.

I started using chevron supreme and havoline 10w30 after reading this forum, with oversize Motorcraft and Napa Gold Filters.

I now am using Rotella T 5w40 syn and Napa gold filter with excellent winter performance. I've been sold on syn oil since finding this site and have boycotted Fram since cutting open a filter.

[ January 07, 2004, 01:20 PM: Message edited by: 90hardbody ]
more about the Fram filter experience
 
We have a 2008 Honda CRV with 153,000 miles on it (my daughter recently inherited it from us last year for college).

I change the oil every 5-6k miles. Change the tranny fluid once a year, coolant every other year. Did the plugs and valve adjustment at 100,000 miles. And just yesterday I replaced the front struts, and front and rear sway bar links (did rear brakes too).

Other than maintenance this has been the most reliable vehicle we have ever owned: knock on wood no check engine lights, or out of pocket repairs besides maintenance. The valves are “loud”...a little too tick tick for me, but it’s doing fine, so I don’t really care.
My '08 CR-V has 249,000 miles on it so you should expect about another 100,000 out of yours! Been a great car for me too!
 
I bought a 2009 Toyota Camry SE with the 2.4L, which as been replaced in the past 80k miles or so. It has 226k miles on it, and drives great! There are a few minor rattles and clunks, though the door rattle from the bass hits on the radio is terribly annoying.

My goal was a $3000 beater, which is a unicorn to find. I ended up paying more than I wanted, but within budget for this car after looking at a lot of junk passing for a good car, mainly due to the car shortage. This one was a one owner that had all of it's maintenance done at the local Toyota dealership. it was used to commute at least 90 miles round trip, 5 days per week, and had the oil changed every 5000 miles. All of the maintenance and wear parts have been up to date.

Not to mention the previous owner kept it very, very clean.

My 95 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L has 251,000 miles on it. I can't tell you it's history, but it's in decent shape and it doesn't burn a drop of oil. Idles at 9PSI hot for Oil Pressure, so it's going to need some work soon. Runs like a champ and gets 17 MPG, so hard to complain about it.
 
I have a few more than 150k miles on my Accord. 635,xxx miles as of now. Oil changed per the OLM since new. Dealership bulk oil for the first 570k or so, then changed every 5-7k using high mileage synthetic 5W-20 for the most part or whatever's on sale. Original engine, not rebuilt.
Freaking awesome. I aspire to have a car with that many on it. I think the Civic we have is a good candidate. Trans. fluid change every 25-30k, oil every 7500. At 227k now. Hope to see 400k. That is 8 years from now at current driving rate.
 
I just wanted to see how many people here have over 150,000 miles on their original engines, to see what kind of oil you've been using and what kind of intervals.
Before the 2.5 cylinder crashed, I had over 400,000 miles on it, It's seen alot of abuse, I used to take it in dirt roads, muddy places, and with rev limiter OFF.

I've mostly used 15w40 diesel oil, and change it at 7,000 miles, when my dad had it, he kept forgetting and would stretch it to 12,000 miles.

The car started great, no lifter noise, no engine troubles, but the electronics where a whole different story.
 
I bought a 2009 Toyota Camry SE with the 2.4L, which as been replaced in the past 80k miles or so. It has 226k miles on it, and drives great! There are a few minor rattles and clunks, though the door rattle from the bass hits on the radio is terribly annoying.

My goal was a $3000 beater, which is a unicorn to find. I ended up paying more than I wanted, but within budget for this car after looking at a lot of junk passing for a good car, mainly due to the car shortage. This one was a one owner that had all of it's maintenance done at the local Toyota dealership. it was used to commute at least 90 miles round trip, 5 days per week, and had the oil changed every 5000 miles. All of the maintenance and wear parts have been up to date.

Not to mention the previous owner kept it very, very clean.

My 95 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L has 251,000 miles on it. I can't tell you it's history, but it's in decent shape and it doesn't burn a drop of oil. Idles at 9PSI hot for Oil Pressure, so it's going to need some work soon. Runs like a champ and gets 17 MPG, so hard to complain about it.
Yeah, the sub-$3k market is hard. Got my Civic with 168k for $2500...it was at a dealer, so it included TT&L. Won’t say it’s perfect, but it’s pretty darn good, after three years I’m in for around another $600 for an alternator, battery, belts, an O2 sensor, thermostat plus the lower thermostat housing and coolant, and three tires, plus oil and a trans fluid change; I should get my AC fixed, and I’ll need a timing belt this year, which will start to add up. I think that’s my niche for now, decent beaters. That Civic replaced another beater for which I paid $0.00. Got 82k miles out of it for ~$800 [tires, oil, cleaning the MAF a few times, a set of OE plugs (expensive Denso iridium buggers, $10 each), a VVTI actuator, and a battery] not counting fuel or insurance, and would have cost me maybe $150 and a weekend to get more, but at that point I was kinda done (busted radiator). Both are/were low-mid 40mpg cars.
 
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2007 Toy FJ w/4.0L and 213k miles. Never needs a drop of makeup oil. I do xOCI, 10k to 18k miles between changes depending on the oil I'm using. Great vehicle.

2007 Yukon Denali w/6.2L and 165k miles. Bought it 3+ yrs ago with 130k and unknown mx history. It burned and leaked oil like crazy. Did GM TSB link, changed the rear main seal, brought the sump capacity up to 11 qts, and now I go 10k+ miles between changes without the need for makeup oil.
 
Had a 96 Mercedes E300 with OM606 L6 Diesel; had almost 300k miles when I gave it to my nephew he put another 45k miles on it before he sold it. No leaks in Engine or Transmission. Flushed it with 1/2 Quart of Kreen once. Oil used was mostly Rotella/Delo or anything else that was on sale and didn't used any oil.
 
I have a few more than 150k miles on my Accord. 635,xxx miles as of now. Oil changed per the OLM since new. Dealership bulk oil for the first 570k or so, then changed every 5-7k using high mileage synthetic 5W-20 for the most part or whatever's on sale. Original engine, not rebuilt.
Wow, that’s a ton of miles! You must have the most on this thread, come to think of it you might have the most on this site.

You should tell us what you’ve done for repairs to keep something like that going that long.
 
2007 GMC Sierra Classic with the 5.3 LS. 209K. I need to put on a new oil pump. The o ring from the pickup tube to the oil pump needs replacing. Figured since I had it all opened up, I will replace the pump. Otherwise it’s been a very solid truck....other than the body lol. It’s rusting in the usually GM pickup truck spots.

I will get around to replacing the pump at some point.
 
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