Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

The longest distance I ever ran a vehicle was my '86 Volvo 740 Turbo, manual transmission with overdrive. I bought it new and kept it for 18 1/2 years and 285,000 Km (178,000 miles). It had a little rust on it, a seam had come undone on one of the back seats, the sunroof needed adjusting, and a few wires had frayed in a couple of door openings. It still handled, rode, braked and ran very well. It had the most comfortable seats of any vehicle I've ever owned (or ridden in for that matter). I would not have hesitated to take it on a 1,000 mile trip on the last day I owned it. I sold it to friends who kept it for 5 more years.

It used a small amount of oil from the moment I bought it and that never changed. I changed the oil every 3 months year round and never had to add oil.

The only power-train problem I had was the overdrive went out around 120 - 150,000 miles; I had it rebuilt. But it went through a lot of exhausts (they would break off at the front of the back muffler) and water pumps.
 
My '95 Honda Civic has over 208,000 miles on it. I've ran synthetic oil pretty much from day one when I bought it in 2003 with about 37K on the clock. I started with Mobil 1 and then switched to AMSOIL. I've used dino oil in the past as a flush for Auto-Rx but that is it.

Had to replace the distributor a couple of months ago but aside from that, it has been phenomenally reliable.
 
1993 Toyota Tercel - 1.5L with Automatic Transmission
360,000km (223693 miles)
Generally 5000km changes, though I've extended it out to 8,000km more recently

I've run a series of oils in this over the years, always dino options. Started with straight 30 weight for a number of years, usually Castrol. I then switched to 10w30 for a long time, whatever dino was relatively cheap. Some I remember using semi-frequently were Castrol, Quaker State, Shell, and Napa.
More recently it's gone longer periods between changes and has actually been parked for up to a year at a time but still runs well and is now back on the road. I've used 5w30 the last couple of times. It died last month and I thought it was all over but it turned out to be the distributor - I sourced a wrecking yard replacement and it's happy again.

My dad is interested in getting some of the Kirkland 5w30 (or maybe 0w30) for all of his vehicles and I'll likely participate in that. My plan moving forward would then be to change the oil in the Tercel yearly with whatever he has in stock.
 
My ‘08 Chevy cobalt has 155,000 and all of the running gear is all original. Oil changes have been a mix of conventional and synthetic. Mostly cheaper conventional oils at 5-7500 miles and ACDelco oil filters.
 
When we brought it back in 99, it only had 6 miles on it. 413k later and still going strong. The 3.4 on these toyotas are bulletproof.


That's awesome. Like you said those Toyota 4 runners with that motor and transmission are absolutely great.

My lady's 98 Camry runs amazing still and the AC on that car is still super cold.
 
That's awesome. Like you said those Toyota 4 runners with that motor and transmission are absolutely great.

My lady's 98 Camry runs amazing still and the AC on that car is still super cold.
The 3.4 are amazing, only thing we did was rebuild the Transmisson 200k miles ago but other than that, is been a work horse.
 
I had to chime in on this thread.. I've got a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 with about 232k miles. Considering the histories on these QR25 engines, I must have picked a solid one. Not too many folks can say that about these Nissans. Car is still running strong with no major failures experienced, yet. My brother put the first 92k on it out in California during his Navy career. I'm currently putting anywhere from 300 to 700 miles a week on the car now commuting to work. Auto tranny has been showing a slow drip, but no major motor oil seeps or leaks, maybe a few weeps though. Nearly all maintenance performed myself, oil changes have been mostly Supertech synthetic from 5 20 to 10 30 every 5 to 7k miles. I'll do an ATF drain and fill about twice a year with Maxlife. The wife and kids think it's an eye sore and want me to get rid of her but I refuse, still runs good and it's long been paid off, sorry guys she's going to stay for now. I'm shooting for 300k, but not sure I'll see it before something fails big. Next commuter will likely be a Honda or Toyota. I'll try to keep y`all updated.
Little update on this Altima, just hit 285,000 mi and has developed a pretty good ATF leak. I really didn't want to do it, but added a quart of the Bars leak seal stuff. I'm still shooting for 300k, we'll see what the outcome is.
 
My 11 Mazda6 was bought new and has 180,000. I used mostly Kendall, Castrol and Valvoline synthetics. OCIs were average of 7,500 miles with some going up to 10,000 miles. I’ve used FRAM Toughguards exclusively for about 8yrs now. Early on I used Purpolator Pure Ones.
 
My 11 Mazda6 was bought new and has 180,000. I used mostly Kendall, Castrol and Valvoline synthetics. OCIs were average of 7,500 miles with some going up to 10,000 miles. I’ve used FRAM Toughguards exclusively for about 8yrs now. Early on I used Purpolator Pure Ones.
That is not a DI engine is it?
 
2002 Jaguar XKR 4.0 L V-8
(factory supercharged):

180,210 total mileage. When I bought the car 5 years ago it had 116,000 miles on it. It’s my daily driver.

Using Mobil 1 0w-40 year round, unless an oil change happens to come around at the beginning of summer, in which case I’ll use the 5w-40. Either weight is factory recommended for the temperature range of my location (NE Oklahoma).

No measurable oil consumption. OCI’s around 5,000 miles. It’s changed that often because the car usage falls into the severe duty category.

Z
 
I'm posting this in this section instead of the General section because it definitely has a lot to do with lubrication.

I just wanted to see how many people here have over 150,000 miles on their original engines, to see what kind of oil you've been using and what kind of intervals.

We talk about a lot of different oils on here, and critique a lot of UOAs, but the absolute best way to find out if any particular routine works, is to look at those people who have had success with it by getting long life from their engine! That is truly what we are all trying to achieve here.

So if you've owned your car since new (or at least know the exact prior history of it from new), please step in and give us your input!

I think this could be a very interesting topic!
2014 Ford Fusion
185,200 miles on the 2.5L 4-cyl
Religiously changed oil every 5k with Motorcraft 5W20 and a Motorcraft filters.
Original 6F35 transmission
Bought it in 2017 when it had 23k on the clock. I used it for ride share, a paper route and still use it for weekend day trips that are typically 300-400 miles RT.
It doesn't burn or leak any fluids, AC still blows super cold.
Has had a few brake jobs, two sets of rear shocks and a tail light assembly replaced after a shopping cart incident at a Target. A bone yard in MI had what I needed for the right price.
Edit: Forgot that it's on its 3rd battery, had several air and cabin filters and it's about ready for its 200,000 mile spark plug change, which of course will be Motorcraft. Everything else is as it was in April 2017.

No reason to part with it.
 
2008 F150 with 5.4, has 182k on it currently. Had fordtechmakuloko change the timing set, oil pump and roller followers last January at 164k. Everything else is original factory parts. Have used motorcraft 5w20 until 140k, now using kirkland 5w30 for the past 40k. Always motorcraft filter. Have no plans on updating vehicles, but starting to have some rust issues.
 
This is probably a good time to whip out my 1999 Honda Accord story (I’m sorry). Bought new, kept for 16 years, sold with 289,000 miles...still wish I took it to 300,000. Four cylinder vtec/automatic Transmission. And for all I know I already shared it on this thread, but hey, haven’t talked about the old girl in a while. haha.

All repairs performed by an ASE master tech (unfortunately that was me🤣🤣).

No repairs ZERO until 115,000 miles. Then it started, and grew. But good car overall.

115,000 tie rods, calipers, pads and rotors. and evap vent solenoid — my lord that was a pain - guy at the parts store says...you usually get a free canister with these, because you’ll never get the vent solenoid out of that canister. I did. Drove around for a year with that vent solenoid code, maybe more.

Plugs cap and wires every 30,000-40,000 miles. Yes it still had those. Oil changes every 3,000 miles (Conventional) Tranny service every year. Coolant every 30,000 miles (Not long life). Brake fluid whenever something was opened up. Timing belt/water pump/pulleys tensioners, every 100k

Brakes on this car?? My lord, I must have rebuilt calipers 2-3 times, replaced calipers once or twice. Tried diagnosing pulls 10 times. Once a caliper froze up on me on the highway. What an adventure that was. Right front wheel smoking. Car pulling HARD. Pulled over, had dinner. Came out, it was fine for the remaining 50 miles to home. Replaced caliper next morning.

Countless sway bar links and bushings. I almost named the car “sway bar bushing”. Front and rear. SEVERAL.

150,000 — motor mounts. My lord!! That front mount! Must have replaced it three times during the life of that car. Did the rear pneumatic mount too. Upper control arms! Seemed like every year after 150,000. Probably did them 2-3 more times.

175,000 miles — This is when then things started rotting out. Mufflers (did many from here on out). Weld jobs and clamps to the exhaust/cat header pipe. And the BIG ONE. GAS TANK. Whole rear of the car had to come out...rear subframe, suspension, exhaust, brakes. Tank was rotted out. Managed to get the fuel pump out and in the new tank.

200,000 miles — All brake lines. All fuel lines. Timing belt yet again. What a royal pain to do those fuel and brake lines! Replaced rear shoes (another pain).

225,000 miles - axles, lower ball joints, struts, vtec solenoid, A/F sensor upstream, IAC motor. Air snorkel had also broken, tried to repair that. Replaced some more engine mounts.

250,000 miles - From here on out, things got interesting. Radiator, EGR valve, transmission switches, power steering rack, axles, more upper control arms, brake lines (sections, I wasn’t doing them all again), FRONT SUBFRAME (my lord, that sucked). More mufflers, more exhaust welds. Some brake hoses. Some more calipers.

285,000 miles - End of watch here. Oil consumption. A quart every 500 miles. Had a stalling problem that I also was dealing with for maybe 30,000 miles. Stop lights. It would just bog down and occasionally stall. Cleaned throttle body. Checked coolant levels (it’s a Honda thing), cleaned IAC. Checked for vacuum leaks. Checked plugs, wires, cap rotor. Nada. Cleaned out EGR ports. Removed intake. Cleaned. Nothing. Oh, and by the way (not that anyone is still reading this), don’t bother with seafoam. I used to smoke out my neighborhood every few months thinking it was “doing something”. It wasn’t. You should have seen what the inside of that manifold looked like. What the EGR looked like.

289,000 miles - Sold it for $1,200 bucks. Told him about the oil consumption, the stalling. He didn’t care. I hope he took it to 300,000 miles. Still had original engine and tranny. And those tranny’s on those Honda’s back then? Class action lawsuit against Honda, with Honda extending the warranty to 120,000 miles. But I never had an issue. Wonder if the yearly fluid changes helped? I think so. Origanal starter and alternator (I actually put a spare alternator in my truck just in case). Original hoses, never replaced a single hose. And honestly, I wish I had that car back. I’d park it in my garage and say, that’s the car I raised my kids with.
 
17.5 Gen2 Jeep Compass Traihawk 2.4 165,000> miles
Bought new. First day of ownership the transmission leaked all over my garage floor.
New seals and shaft installed but it started leaking again at 5000 miles. The transmission was replaced and it has been running great since.
Regular 5000 to 7500 mile oil changes mostly Pennzoil Platinum but have run QS and Valvoline
0w20 all with no issues. Motor uses no oil and is leak free, Replace both batteries and brakes all around
a few air filters and on 2 set of spark plugs. Replaced front and back sway-bar links and a couple sets of tires.
This is my work vehicle so it can see 400 to 800 miles a week. I would say 90% of these mile are Highway use.
I will be driving it until I or it retires.
 
2007 2.0L Ford Focus. Bought it new for my Mom. At her passing in 2013, I started using it for my daily commute of 74 miles round trip and every day “stuff”. 196,000 miles to date. 5,000 OCIs with first 50,000 miles being Motorcraft 5w20. Next 100,000 on NAPA 5w20 syn. Now, what ever 5w20 syn on sale. Always on full mark at OCI. Mostly FL-910S filter with a few NAPA golds. Spark plugs at 100,000. Transmission filter and NAPA fluid at 120,000. Brakes at 130,000. Rear shocks, thermostat and motor mount. I pump out the power steering tank and coolant tank with each OCI.

Amazed at the service for this thing. I would have never thought it would be this trouble free. These Ford/Mazda Duratecs seem to be bullet proof.
 
My son inherited our '03 CRV, at the moment it's at 171k. Doing ok, a/c is weak and it got a throttle body at some point, new set of struts up front.

I totalled out my 236k '11 Camry last summer. While it was getting ready for the parts cannon it all but made it to that 236k with just one set of brakes and two proactively replaced batteries.

Still have my '99 Camry, almost to 249k, so in a couple months it'll be 250k. Lots of parts replaced, but some were age, some were wear, and it comes from an era where parts were expected to wear out, so I guess I can't complain.
 
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