Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

2011 Honda Pilot just hit 153k miles, I recently did two drain and fills for the tranny and that helped smoothen the shifts a lot. Weve owned it since 30k miles, its had 2 tranny services one at 90k and another shortly after yes it didnt have a drain and fill for 60k miles but it still runs and shifts great. The oil was either every 5k or until the OLM hit 0% which was around 5500 miles, it used all the oil brands and types you can get 😂😂 always stuck with 5w20 recently did 0w20 for the heck of it. The engine burns zero oil, and I have given it a good italian tune up every few months.
 
Wife has 204k on 2001 Crown Vic using Mobil 1.

She pretty much does zippo on anything else preventative especially on the appearance front, so it’s an absolute wreck otherwise.
 
My 2008 Toyota sienna van has over 257,000 miles on it. My 1988 300e mercedes has over 235,000 miles on it. It will soon be my youngest daughters car so she can drive it to school. ( whatever college she chooses). My 1983 mercedes 240d has 285,922 miles on it. It is my DD. My 1984 Mercedes 300SD has 222,234 miles on it. And my favorite car which is a 1995 mercedes 300d has 153,743 miles on it. They All run great and are a treat to drive.
Update time! My Toyota Sienna van now has 363,147 miles on it, my 1988 e300 has 265,147 miles on it, my 1983 Mercedes 240d has 324,019 miles on it, my 1984 300sd has 257,255 miles on it, my 1995 e300d has 170,202 miles on it. All running well!!
 
Wow, many of you guys have me beat.

Oldest vehicle is a 1999 S-10 (4.3L Vortec V6) with ~ 214,000 miles on odometer (it was my dads) .

Been using everything from 0W30 in the wintertime to 10W30 in the summer.

It has never consumed any oil. :cool: It does drip some oil from the timing chain cover.

Oil pressure is 62 psi cold idle and 25 psi at hot idle.

Dad used Pennzoil exclusively. No wax buildup whatsover. o_O
 
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I bought my first vehicle (2008 Nissan Pathfinder 4.0 V6) in 2018 with 150k or right around there. It now has 180k on it currently. The previous owner told me they always took it to Nissan for service, they even replaced the transmission and radiator for them. Here’s a list of things I’ve had done to it or have done myself. New struts and shocks, Tires, Valve cover gaskets, Oxygen sensors, and the passenger side ball joint in the 30k miles that I’ve owned it. Otherwise it’s a oil change here and there and that’s about it. Not bad considering this generation of the Pathfinder isn’t considered the best in terms of reliability. I have since gave it to my mom to use as her cleaning business vehicle and I bought a Tacoma. 😀
 
1990 Honda Prelude 4WS- >250k with traditional oil. Gave it away in 2003 and it was still running years later.
2001 Honda Civic- >250k with traditional oil. Transmission was no good. Dealer gave me $2200 for it in 2013.
2010 Honda Civic- 227k with M1- Still going strong. One of the best cars I have owned. All maintenance done by me (except brake fluid and coolant). Will drive this one to >300 I hope. My friends has over 400k on his and still runs.

Pretty good track record I would say. Even using cheap non synthetic oils.
 
Wow, many of you guys have me beat.

Oldest vehicle is a 1999 S-10 (4.3L Vortec V6) with ~ 214,000 miles on odometer (it was my dads) .

Been using everything from 0W30 in the wintertime to 10W30 in the summer.

It has never consumed any oil. :cool: It does drip some oil from the timing chain cover.

Oil pressure is 62 psi cold idle and 25 psi at hot idle.

Dad used Pennzoil exclusively. No wax buildup whatsover. o_O
I run Pennzoil 10w40 YB in my 1998 Volvo S70 year round and the Volvo 5 cylinder White Block engines seems to love it..there are plenty of Pennzoil YB haters out there..but I have never had any issues using Pennzoil in my car..I pick up a 5 qt jug at Home Depot for $18..great stuff!
 
2003 Civic EX 161,000 miles. I bought it new in November of 2003. For most of its life it's lived on Pennzoil conventional 5w-20 and 4k-8k OCI (averaging about 5k). Had the head gasket go at 158k and have now switched to Supertech Full Synth HM. Recently replaced plugs, coils, PCV, O2 sensors and cleaned TB and MAP sensor and it's running great again.

2008 Ranger XL 3.0 191,000 miles. We just bought this last September at 187k and are feeding it Supertech Full Synth HM 5w-20. Did a UOA on the oil that was in it when we bought it and it had high wear metals. UOA after 2100 miles of new oil still showed high metals but going down. Will do another one or two short OCI with UOA to see if it continues trending down. No leaks and not consuming oil.
 
2006 Pontaic montana SV6 315,000+ and still going all original parts except tune up throttle body replaced around 200k water pump at 312k still has factory fill on trans fluid and never had a drop of anything but the cheapest oil available at the time mostly supertech, chevron, or last 100k Prime from Sam's club. Filters have always been the cheapest pf52 store brand or closeouts from rock auto a lot were Fram high mileage filters got them for like $1.50 from rock auto. Other then that van eating front wheels bearing like candy no matter what brand or torqued or just tight it has been a good van.
 
I'm posting this in this section instead of the General section because it definitely has a lot to do with lubrication.

I just wanted to see how many people here have over 150,000 miles on their original engines, to see what kind of oil you've been using and what kind of intervals.

We talk about a lot of different oils on here, and critique a lot of UOAs, but the absolute best way to find out if any particular routine works, is to look at those people who have had success with it by getting long life from their engine! That is truly what we are all trying to achieve here.

So if you've owned your car since new (or at least know the exact prior history of it from new), please step in and give us your input!

I think this could be a very interesting topic!
2005 Chrysler Grand Caravan 302,000 miles. Engine oil & filter every 5000 miles, mostly standard Pennzoil 10w-30 and Mopar filter. It currently uses about a quart every 2500 miles. I also changed the transmission oil & filter every 50,000 miles. Tranny has never been touched beyond that.
 
I'm posting this in this section instead of the General section because it definitely has a lot to do with lubrication.

I just wanted to see how many people here have over 150,000 miles on their original engines, to see what kind of oil you've been using and what kind of intervals.

We talk about a lot of different oils on here, and critique a lot of UOAs, but the absolute best way to find out if any particular routine works, is to look at those people who have had success with it by getting long life from their engine! That is truly what we are all trying to achieve here.

So if you've owned your car since new (or at least know the exact prior history of it from new), please step in and give us your input!

I think this could be a very interesting topic!
2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.8. My dad bought it with 3 miles on it fall of 99. It was passed onto me so I figured might as well keep taking it to the dealership to get serviced. Has always just had their bulk oil which it is now using the 5w30 dexos and delco filters. The truck has been used to tow a cargo trailer most of its life. Odometer says 312,542miles. Truck has had a pretty rough life all things considered. I’m not sure how it made it this far without using Amsoil….😏
 
2005 Toyota Corolla 85,000 miles. I know it's not 150,000 but the car is old and is probably going to rust out before it mechanically goes living here in the Midwest.
 
2005 Chrysler Grand Caravan 302,000 miles. Engine oil & filter every 5000 miles, mostly standard Pennzoil 10w-30 and Mopar filter. It currently uses about a quart every 2500 miles. I also changed the transmission oil & filter every 50,000 miles. Tranny has never been touched beyond that.
Wow! My ‘05 3.8 is *only* at 195k. Bravo...gives me hope for my future!
 
Almost at 190,000 on my 1998 Mazda 626, nothing other than standard maintenance on the engine (a couple timing belts, some plugs/plug wires, an O2 sensor) but the trans was replaced with a Jasper unit a few years ago. It's still a bit funky with a 2-3 shift flare that was present in the old one (probably a computer programming issue) but I haven't had any other issues. Old trans was bumping hard on low speed shifts and twice got stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear after a highway drive and once behaved like the TCC was stuck applied (stalled at a stop and banged hard into gear and stalled again). Other than the 2-3 flare the Jasper unit has had none of those problems and performs as well as one of these transmissions can perform. I did have the ECM updated to go along with the updated shift accumulator that Jasper is using and I am running Jasper required Mercon V fluid, but kind of cheating since it's Valvoline Maxlife ATF so it's also Mercon compatible too. It got swapped over to a thermostat regulated air cooler to bypass the evidently problematic radiator cooler when the trans was replaced.

A few years ago I had a few UOA's from Blackstone and had some elevated iron that I think I tracked to a small post filter air intake leak, I've fallen out of the habit of doing the UOA's so I'm not sure if that's resolved. The engine burns off about 1qt every 3-5K depending on winter or summer, no smoking at startup and no ash on the spark plugs. Engine runs great but it's underpowered for the car and the transmission can't ever seem to be in the right gear at the right time.
 
I got rid of my ‘00 Toyota Echo in 2017 after the radiator started leaking. It would have been well within my abilities to just replace it, but...nah. I was done. At 272k miles, it was mechanically freaking solid. No leaks and basically no oil consumption.

My current DD ‘97 Civic does leak oil from the distributor seal, so it loses a bit of oil. Closing in on 195k. Nowhere near as reliable as my Echo was, unfortunately. Did change the manual trans fluid about a week ago...it wasn’t in bad shape, even having a bit of a honey color while pouring out of the drain plug, but it was very low, which would explain the grinding it occasionally had. That’s what prompted me to change it in the first place. Given that there aren’t any discernible leaks on the trans, my guess is that it hasn’t been changed in...a very long time, and that it’s either gone up in vapor or just escaped through undetectably small leaks over the course of a long time. I can’t even guarantee that wasn’t the factory fill in there. Shifts more nicely now, it’s an easy job and even with stealership Honda fluid and plug washers, plus a fill rig assembled from hardware store stuff, it was less than $30 and took maybe half an hour, if that (I did make an amateur move and have to use another car after draining to run and get a 17mm socket which I thought I already had). YMMV, I find it a no-brainer to change MTF if you don’t have any record of it having been done.
 
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I got rid of my ‘00 Toyota Echo in 2017 after the radiator started leaking. It would have been well within my abilities to just replace it, but...nah. I was done. At 272k miles, it was mechanically freaking solid. No leaks and basically no oil consumption.

My current DD ‘97 Civic does leak oil from the distributor seal, so it loses a bit of oil. Closing in on 195k. Nowhere near as reliable as my Echo was, unfortunately. Did change the manual trans fluid about a week ago...it wasn’t in bad shape, even having a bit of a honey color while pouring out of the drain plug, but it was very low, which would explain the grinding it occasionally had. That’s what prompted me to change it in the first place. Given that there aren’t any discernible leaks on the trans, my guess is that it hasn’t been changed in...a very long time, and that it’s either gone up in vapor or just escaped through undetectably small leaks over the course of a long time. I can’t even guarantee that wasn’t the factory fill in there. Shifts more nicely now, it’s an easy job and even with stealership Honda fluid and plug washers, plus a fill rig assembled from hardware store stuff, it was less than $30 and took maybe half an hour, if that (I did make an amateur move and have to use another car after draining to run and get a 17mm socket which I thought I already had). YMMV, I find it a no-brainer to change MTF if you don’t have any record of it having been done.
Or someone did a clutch or had axles out and forgot to refill it.
 
1997 Buick LeSabre, 155k when I sold it. I used whatever dino oil and filter were cheapest, changed about every 5-6k miles. The next owner drove it for a few years before replacing the engine.
 
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