Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in
- Thread starter Patman
- Start date
1989 Shadow ES Turbo 2.5 T1 5spd 189,000 Owned since 40K. Run Amsoil 10w-30 and 0w-30, use bypass filter, LT47 Foam Air filter, ASF 57. Change oil/filters every 2 years avgs out to 20,000 mile drains.
1989 Spirit 2.5 Turbo 3 spd auto 156,000 Owned since 80,000. same regimen as above.
Also have 2 Daytonas using same regimen, but only have 110,000 and 115,000 on them.
Mike
1989 Spirit 2.5 Turbo 3 spd auto 156,000 Owned since 80,000. same regimen as above.
Also have 2 Daytonas using same regimen, but only have 110,000 and 115,000 on them.
Mike
Becuase he used a thicker oil. I don't think a dino 5w-30 will protect as well in hot climate as a synthetic 0w-30.quote:
Originally posted by Cutehumor:
this is proof here that a syn is not needed in a "hot" climate. valvoline all climate
310,000 miles and counting on my '85 toyota 4x4. it went 250,000 on the original tranny with cheap gear lube. 275,000 on the original 22r with whatever oil and filters were on sale, it was only consuming 2 qts every 3,000 miles and had good compression, i just felt like it was time for a rebuild. the u-joints went 309,000 with sta-lube moly grease in them, and that's on a lifted truck!
my '88 grand am with a quad4 has 199,999 and holding. the electronic odo won't count past that. original auto transmission with regular flushes and cheap atf. the engine has had the head gasket changed once. it burns about 1 quart between oil changes.
i usually run delo 15w-40 in these or something similar.
my '88 grand am with a quad4 has 199,999 and holding. the electronic odo won't count past that. original auto transmission with regular flushes and cheap atf. the engine has had the head gasket changed once. it burns about 1 quart between oil changes.
i usually run delo 15w-40 in these or something similar.
1981 Volvo, 228K
Mobil 1 15W50 since 15K with the exception of a few oil changes.
Oil Change interval at 3.75K regardless of time with the exception of 1 change at 7.5K
Consumed 1 quart per 1600 miles almost since new
UOA at 225K with 3.35K on oil showed
Oil within weight
No water, fuel, or antifreeze
Chromium 0
Copper 10
Iron 13
Lead 18
Tin 1
Aluminum 3
Silicon 9
Car was sent to it's grave in 2001 due to rust. Engine was running perfectly and had never had anything done but normal maintenance.
-Ted
Mobil 1 15W50 since 15K with the exception of a few oil changes.
Oil Change interval at 3.75K regardless of time with the exception of 1 change at 7.5K
Consumed 1 quart per 1600 miles almost since new
UOA at 225K with 3.35K on oil showed
Oil within weight
No water, fuel, or antifreeze
Chromium 0
Copper 10
Iron 13
Lead 18
Tin 1
Aluminum 3
Silicon 9
Car was sent to it's grave in 2001 due to rust. Engine was running perfectly and had never had anything done but normal maintenance.
-Ted
87 Nissan Pulsar that had 232k miles (original owner) when traded in. The oil was changed every 5-6k with 10W-30 dino (Castrol GTX) and it had no leakage or mechanical problems attributable to lubrication.
It still got 34 MPG on the highway but had a ton of electrical problems.
I heard from the local gendarme that the car had been impounded from the subsequent owner for parking violations but that it ran great with 260k!
It still got 34 MPG on the highway but had a ton of electrical problems.
I heard from the local gendarme that the car had been impounded from the subsequent owner for parking violations but that it ran great with 260k!
[
[/qb][/QUOTE]Becuase he used a thicker oil. I don't think a dino 5w-30 will protect as well in hot climate as a synthetic 0w-30. [/QB][/QUOTE]
Hot climate for sure, was a daily driver into the desert from late Aug to middle of June for over 10 years.
[ March 17, 2004, 11:51 PM: Message edited by: DOC ]
Hot climate for sure, was a daily driver into the desert from late Aug to middle of June for over 10 years.
[ March 17, 2004, 11:51 PM: Message edited by: DOC ]
Originally posted by Patman:
[QB] I'm posting this in this section instead of the General section because it definitely has a lot to do with lubrication.
1984 Honda Prelude SI, 2.0 liter.
207,000 miles.
Penzoil 10w-30 and Jiffy lube filters moostly (Fram I suspect).
Engine burns little (1/4 quart) or no oil. Mostly hiway driving. Replaced belts, clutch, battery, tires and pads only.
Probably needs new shocks now
86 Dodge Ramcharger 318 had 72K when I bought it, previous owner had a STACK of OC recipts using 30 wt NAPA (Valvoline) oil.I started using Quaker State(sometimes Mobil) 30 wt with PH8A Fram filter,truck had 167K when I sold it,and it's still on the road as I see it now and then.
1993 Jeep Cherokee 4.0.Purchased new. Started with 10w30 Quaker State and Fram filter,changed to Mobil 30 wt after 100K,vehicle totalled in accident at 149K,engine still ran great and used no oil.
OCI's on both vehicles were 3 mo/3K
1993 Jeep Cherokee 4.0.Purchased new. Started with 10w30 Quaker State and Fram filter,changed to Mobil 30 wt after 100K,vehicle totalled in accident at 149K,engine still ran great and used no oil.
OCI's on both vehicles were 3 mo/3K
Does it count if they are now just seasonal drivers and play toys?
I have 1986 4Runner started life on 20W50 and 10W30 Castrol GTX went to M1 15W50 in 1993. It now leaks about 1/2 quart per 5000 mile OCI from rear main.
I have a 1982 Toyota Starlet that had the same treatment as above while we owned it. We sold it to a relative. It went about 3-4 years only getting one oil change a year at Jiffy Lube and driveing 200 miles a day. It toped up through out the year. It sat in field for 2 years before I bought it back as an emergency college car after a bad acident left me with no wheels while I was saveing up for parts to fix my other ride. I used 5W50 Syntec in it when I used it to deliver Pizza's.
My Dad has a 1995 Tacom that is at 129,000 miles and it has been run on almost a steady diet of M1 15W50 and 10W30.
I had a GEO Metro 1.0 3 Cylinder that when I "recently"sold it to family had 152,000 miles and it only used oil if you drove it WOT for long periods of time 1-2 hours. I would drive it WOT to and from Detroit.
These are our current vechiles that are close to 150,000 miles. None of them burn any oil. Only one has a slight leak.
We have had alot of vechile surpass this number but our fleet is still young at this point.
I have an uncle that has 310,000 mile before the speedo cable broke on his Toyota pickup. He drove it another 3 years before it was retired. It has had 3000 mile oil changes on what ever was on sale in 10W30. It was usualy Motor Craft or Valvoline. For some reason my Uncles parts store always had Motor Craft 10W30 and Valvoline on sale. He would buy 3-4 cases at a time.
P.S. At one point my Geo got left over oil only. I would dump all of the 1/3 and 1/2 quarts of oil from various oil changes I did on the Family fleet which at one time had 6 vechiles a rideing mower, a tiller and a lawn mower actively used at a time into a gallon jug. When the jug was full the Geo got an oil change. It was a mix of synthetic and non-synthetic of different weights etc.
[ March 18, 2004, 08:41 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
I have 1986 4Runner started life on 20W50 and 10W30 Castrol GTX went to M1 15W50 in 1993. It now leaks about 1/2 quart per 5000 mile OCI from rear main.
I have a 1982 Toyota Starlet that had the same treatment as above while we owned it. We sold it to a relative. It went about 3-4 years only getting one oil change a year at Jiffy Lube and driveing 200 miles a day. It toped up through out the year. It sat in field for 2 years before I bought it back as an emergency college car after a bad acident left me with no wheels while I was saveing up for parts to fix my other ride. I used 5W50 Syntec in it when I used it to deliver Pizza's.
My Dad has a 1995 Tacom that is at 129,000 miles and it has been run on almost a steady diet of M1 15W50 and 10W30.
I had a GEO Metro 1.0 3 Cylinder that when I "recently"sold it to family had 152,000 miles and it only used oil if you drove it WOT for long periods of time 1-2 hours. I would drive it WOT to and from Detroit.
These are our current vechiles that are close to 150,000 miles. None of them burn any oil. Only one has a slight leak.
We have had alot of vechile surpass this number but our fleet is still young at this point.
I have an uncle that has 310,000 mile before the speedo cable broke on his Toyota pickup. He drove it another 3 years before it was retired. It has had 3000 mile oil changes on what ever was on sale in 10W30. It was usualy Motor Craft or Valvoline. For some reason my Uncles parts store always had Motor Craft 10W30 and Valvoline on sale. He would buy 3-4 cases at a time.
P.S. At one point my Geo got left over oil only. I would dump all of the 1/3 and 1/2 quarts of oil from various oil changes I did on the Family fleet which at one time had 6 vechiles a rideing mower, a tiller and a lawn mower actively used at a time into a gallon jug. When the jug was full the Geo got an oil change. It was a mix of synthetic and non-synthetic of different weights etc.
[ March 18, 2004, 08:41 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
My first high miler was my POS '86 VW Golf, donated to charity in 1999 with 147,000(darn close to 150) hard miles, falling apart in several directions at once, but ran good, burned/leaked about a quart per 3500 miles,and changed same interval. Used M1 exclusively after 3000 miles because of reports of marginal cams dying on the Made in Mexico engines. Oversized Fram filters (working off of old Consumer Report findings). I remember one nasty black oil change. Later figured bypass valve was shot from the beginning.
Current ride is '90 Mazda 626 with mixed driving 182,000+, still runs great, weeps/burns about one quart per 5000 miles. Began to use 1 Qt. per 3500, then found out about Diesel Rated oils and it cleaned up nice. Wix/Purolator/M1 filters for last four years. (Yeah, I didn't yet know about F***)Using Delvac 1 now, found a local source for about $23/gal. Will probably (need to) run it to 225,000.
Current ride is '90 Mazda 626 with mixed driving 182,000+, still runs great, weeps/burns about one quart per 5000 miles. Began to use 1 Qt. per 3500, then found out about Diesel Rated oils and it cleaned up nice. Wix/Purolator/M1 filters for last four years. (Yeah, I didn't yet know about F***)Using Delvac 1 now, found a local source for about $23/gal. Will probably (need to) run it to 225,000.
1992 Toyota Camry 4cyl 2.2L auto. Just hit the 150,000 mile mark recently. Have always been using conventional motor oil. 10W-40 or 10W-30 oil and use either Penzoil or Fram oil filter. As for brand of oil usually use whatever is on sale at Kragen or buy a case at Costco. Used Chevron, Valvoline mostly. Tried many brands. Oil changes at least twice a year. Not major noticeable oil consumption between oil changes.
How many timing chains have you been through?
1981 Pontiac Phoenix, V-6, 4 speed 140K, 6 month OCI, mostly Pennzoil dino, AC filters. Bad sludge about 1990 using Quaker State dino.
1992 Pontiac Grand Am, HO Quad 4, 5 speed, 3 month OCI, mostly Pennzoil dino, AC filters. Some varnish when head gasket blew about 180K. In later years used PF 52 in place of PF 47.
1977 Chevy LUV, 1.8 4, 4 speed. Only 122K, but hardly any 2 of them without a stop. Abusive short trips. 6 month OCI through 1992, mostly Pennzoil dino, AC filters. Switched to 3 month OCI when I read the Grand Am manual. Used Frams for a while, some Purolators, etc. and now ST. May switch to AC 1233 or something. Varnish, but not much sludge when replaced head gasket mid 90's.
1992 Pontiac Grand Am, HO Quad 4, 5 speed, 3 month OCI, mostly Pennzoil dino, AC filters. Some varnish when head gasket blew about 180K. In later years used PF 52 in place of PF 47.
1977 Chevy LUV, 1.8 4, 4 speed. Only 122K, but hardly any 2 of them without a stop. Abusive short trips. 6 month OCI through 1992, mostly Pennzoil dino, AC filters. Switched to 3 month OCI when I read the Grand Am manual. Used Frams for a while, some Purolators, etc. and now ST. May switch to AC 1233 or something. Varnish, but not much sludge when replaced head gasket mid 90's.
I have always replaced timeing chains on my Toyotas at 150,000 miles and all of the associated timeing componets. I always considered this cheap insurance seeing how seldom I have had to change anything else on the engines in most cases.
My Uncle with the insane milage on his 1987 Toyota still has not touched a wrench to the engine other then valve adjustments. He did have to replcae the main bearing on the transmission and he had to replace the sender about 4-5 years ago. I sold him a complete timeing set for $40 when it hit 200,000 and he told me he had not done the timeing chain. I used to have a lot of spare parts for 22RE's. People knew that I drove and modified them so when ever they found Toyota parts or needed money they would come to me. If a parts store was going out of business I would stock up on all kinds of parts. I once bought three shoping carts of parts from a store going out of business. I bought starters for $39, Head lights for $2, Clutch Kits for $30, U-Joints foe $1 etc........ I bought up any parts they had for Toyotas...... I still have some of those parts 10 years later.
My Uncle with the insane milage on his 1987 Toyota still has not touched a wrench to the engine other then valve adjustments. He did have to replcae the main bearing on the transmission and he had to replace the sender about 4-5 years ago. I sold him a complete timeing set for $40 when it hit 200,000 and he told me he had not done the timeing chain. I used to have a lot of spare parts for 22RE's. People knew that I drove and modified them so when ever they found Toyota parts or needed money they would come to me. If a parts store was going out of business I would stock up on all kinds of parts. I once bought three shoping carts of parts from a store going out of business. I bought starters for $39, Head lights for $2, Clutch Kits for $30, U-Joints foe $1 etc........ I bought up any parts they had for Toyotas...... I still have some of those parts 10 years later.
I recently got rid of an Audi A6 1.8T (yes 1.8!) with 152K on it. Oil changed by myself every 10K (unless I forgot and it went to 11K!) with M1 0W40. Never did a UOA on it; this M1 was chosen at the time (I had never heard of this site and was ignorant of how oil weights work) because it worked well in my BMW 325i which preceded it. In that application, it was chosen due to the much-publicised million-mile 325i run by Mobil.
The A6 never let me down and was running nicely if a bit noisy when I sold it. The BMW on the other hand was sold at 135K and was sludging its oil slightly (though this seems highly unlikely to have been due to the oil, which was changed every 7.5K)
The A6 never let me down and was running nicely if a bit noisy when I sold it. The BMW on the other hand was sold at 135K and was sludging its oil slightly (though this seems highly unlikely to have been due to the oil, which was changed every 7.5K)
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