thin perhaps not as good as i thought

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quote from page 11 of this thread. Letter from Ford to their dealers:

Q. Why did we change to 5W-20? What was wrong with 10W-40, 10W-30 etc?

A: 10W-30 and 10W-40 are old technology. We introduced 5W-20 to take advantage of new technology in the industry to provide improved fuel economy, low emissions, and better engine protection.


Maybe I'm reading between the lines here. But I think they're saying 10W is old man's oil.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
How can any single grade of oil perform well for all the different engines all over the world? Just the sheer numbers can tell some of us that no single grade is ever going to work everywhere.


Yet the manufs are confident enough to stamp the oil weight right on the oil cap.



Isn't that a CAFE requirement?


Plus the cars only need to make it past warranty then who cares?! You dont think MFR's want people to buy new cars? Personally I have to agree with Trav. Everything he has said makes the most sense. Running at high speeds for long periods of time will require a thicker oil. In NA its not common for people to drive over 80mph/ 120-130km/h..so at high speeds where the engine is pushed hard..definitely would go with M1 0w40 or a good 5w40.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
How can any single grade of oil perform well for all the different engines all over the world? Just the sheer numbers can tell some of us that no single grade is ever going to work everywhere.


Yet the manufs are confident enough to stamp the oil weight right on the oil cap.





Isn't that a CAFE requirement?


Yes it is, and I also believe one size doesn't always fit under all driving conditions and user patterns.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
quote from page 11 of this thread. Letter from Ford to their dealers:

Q. Why did we change to 5W-20? What was wrong with 10W-40, 10W-30 etc?

A: 10W-30 and 10W-40 are old technology. We introduced 5W-20 to take advantage of new technology in the industry to provide improved fuel economy, low emissions, and better engine protection.


Maybe I'm reading between the lines here. But I think they're saying 10W is old man's oil.




Today's conventional 10W40, not as terrible as in the 1970s, but still much more problematic than today's conventional 5W30. If given appropriate applications, 30 and 40 and 15W40 (preferably without Mg detergents
wink.gif
) and 20W50 preferable to 10W40. Of course BITOGers know this, so they run the full synthetic 0W40s and 5W40s.

Quote:
http://www.amsoil.com/news/2014_January_the_trend_toward_lower-viscosity_motor_oils.pdf
How Low Can Viscosity Go?
The trend toward lower-viscosity oils
began decades ago as a way to improve
cold-weather performance and fuel
economy. Given today’s strict fuel economy
requirements, OEMs will continue to
recommend lower-viscosity oils.

1911
SAE J300 Engine Oil Viscosity
Classification Standard is published,
defining five monograde oil viscosities.

1952
Winter-grade (“W”) viscosities are added
to the SAE J300 Standard.

1970s
Many OEMs recommend 10W-40 due
to its performance throughout a broad
temperature range.

1980s
10W-30 becomes popular due to its fuel
economy benefits.

1990s
5W-30 overtakes 10W-30 due to its
increased fuel economy.

2000s
Low-viscosity oils such as 5W-20 and
0W-XX are introduced to further increase
fuel economy.

2013
SAE 16W is added to the SAE J300
standard, clearing the way for 0W-16 oils.


Quote:
http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/archives/9-19-13.html
Like with old engines, oil in newer engines still needs to lubricate the moving parts while not leaking into the combustion chambers. However, oil now often has other important duties. Engine oil may have to act as a hydraulic fluid in engines with variable valve timing, multi-displacement or other systems with small orifices and pressure sensitive parts.

Engine oil also may have increased cooling duties. The four cylinder in my wife’s 1993 Ford Tempo takes five quarts (4.73 liters) of 10W-30 just like the V8 in our 1992 Dodge van does. Newer engines may need seven quarts, ten quarts or whatever volume is needed to keep the engine, turbocharger and other systems lubricated, pressurized and cool. An oil pump designed to pump seven quarts of relatively light weight synthetic oil is probably not going to be happy trying to move seven quarts of old 30 weight racing oil. Some oil passages or the oil filter might be left dry.

I wonder why 10W-30 is still sold at nearly every convenience store? I do not complain because it is what I need for my old cars, but how many drug store shoppers still have cars over 20 years old in their fleets? 5W-30 was already becoming the new normal in the early 1990s. Maybe significant numbers of people are putting 10W-30 in newer cars when they should not. Mixing weights of oils (for example 10W-30 mixed with 10W-40) always risked clogging the oil passages with goo. I imagine that really bad goo might happen if 10W-30 is mixed with 0W-20.


GF-4 and GF-5 10W30 conventionals and syn blends and Group III synthetics on the newer vehicles, it seems to me, could be used as a sort of high mileage motor oil. In my view 10W30 (the Energy/Resource Conserving kind) continues to most reasonably address both the needs for fuel economy (to minimize the fluid drag on the moving engine parts, and for easier cold weather starting) and the needs for protection under high load operation (for extended OCI).

As for Hondas and Toyotas with (0W20 on the oil cap) and as for Ford V8 modulars with very long timing chains (5W20 on the oil cap), and probably for others run by very sensitive variable valve timing systems, I must strongly suppose, given the above information, that the Group III synthetics PP 5W30 Dexos1 (ACEA A1/B1) and QSUD 5W30 Dexos1 (ACEA A5-02) and others similar to them in performance like PP PurePlus Dexos1 (ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5) (and preferably not containing PAO and very possibly no esters either, and not using extra additive products, for the earliest part of a vehicle's life, so a Motorcraft/Honda Syn Blend is acceptable too as I think on this matter) most reasonably address both the needs for fuel economy and the needs for protection under high load operation. The earlier part of a vehicle's life is not clear cut, as it could be the first 50K miles, or somewhere between 50K and 100K, could even be after 150K, depending on various factors within and without the control of the owner.

According to this line of reasoning and supposition concerning the latest vehicles, certain mainstream 5W30s could be called "the new 10W30"!
And then you've got the GDI engined vehicles.
shocked2.gif


I guess one must be a BITOG student to buy and reasonably operate these new ICE cars and trucks today. Or become mechanics themselves. And folks join because they perceive that the dealers by themselves are not able to supply the relevant education. Pretty amazing, the sophistications underneath the shiny new paint and behind the nonstop advertising, as if they were plug and play products.
 
tswm - i think a 50:50 mix of pennzoil yb 10w30 and mobil super 5000 5w20 might be ideal. additive clash may be worrisome.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
All you guys have been had. This thread is a total waste of time. No educational value at all.


Huge X2. I lost a few IQ points reading this.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
All you guys have been had. This thread is a total waste of time. No educational value at all.


Huge X2. I lost a few IQ points reading this.


I disagree. Look at the rest of the threads on the front page.

What kind of oil should I use in my Hondaxxx.

Please.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: Lex94
additive clash may be worrisome.


33.gif
Additive "clash" is not something to be worried about.


Who told you to think that?
 
Originally Posted By: salgra
Good day fellow oil lovers. (long post)

I am a member of the thin oil club, however i always believed sufficient hths was important.

about a year ago my parents bought a new KIA Rio( 1.25 engine, i maintain it) and I bought a KIA Picanto ( 1.0 engine ) and a Mitsubishi ASX ( 1.6 petrol engine). so 3 new 0 km cars.
Always doing my own oil change on all three.

After 10000KM each vehicle, i switched them all over to Kroon oil 0w20 A3/b4 ( Yes I called kroon to confirm A3/b4 and hths )
link to the oil:

http://www.kroon-oil.com/en/products/cat...b-omschrijving/

After the first 10000 Km all three had negligible blow-by. if you took of the oil filler cap, idle running warm engine, there was almost No air coming from it.

After about 6 months, i decided to check blow-by again (same way off course) The Rio, afther 10000km on the 0w20 is blowing like crazy. the ASX afther 12000KM on the 0w20 even worse then our 320000KM hard life 3.2 diesel pajero. upon removing the filler cap, really high pressure air was escaping from it! oil got every where! The ASX and RIO are driven a lot that's why the already have 10k and 12K on the 0w20.
The picanto only has 2K on the 0w20 and isn't having blow-by yet. although it appears to be more than the factory fill Total 5w40 the dealer put in all three cars when the where delivered.

is the 0w20 destroing the cylinder walls?

Afther 5w40 for 10K all three cars have close to no blow by at all! and 10k later at 0w20 they blow even more than the old perhaps worn 3.2 did pajero.

It really got me worried.
thinking about switching the picanto back to 5w40 asap. and the other's too.

all three cars are driven about the same way. always warmed up carefully, and cruised quite high speed. no wild acceleration's or racing.

What do you guys think of it.

per manual:

ASX: any oil viscosity from 0w20 to 20w50 in my climate is allowed at least api sl or sm. it say's as a side note: 0w20 0w30 5w30 0w40 can only be used if they meet acea a5/b5 or a3/b4. all others api sl minumum.

picanto say's all oil viscosity's 0w20 to 20w50. minimum api sm and or ilsac gf4

Rio same as picanto, but max viscosity 10w40.

I am really puzzled, judging by blow-by these are really are looking like old engine's having 300K.

You're worrying unnecessarily. No motor oil, regardless of viscosity or type, is going to destroy your engines in 6k miles (10k kilometers). You probably overfilled/overtopped them with oil and you have some oil splashing. Also, thinner oil flows better and therefore it will splash more.

On top of that, 0W-20 is one of the recommended viscosity grades for your engines by your car maker.

By the way, it's an A1/B1 oil, not A3/B4. All A3/B4 oils are thick oils (HTHSV >= 3.5 cP).

Everything is OK. 0W-20 is the best choice for you because you should use the thinnest oil recommended by the car maker for best fuel economy, especially in Europe where fuel is very expensive.
 
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