Thick or Thin,I'm confused?????

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quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:
Too thick: 20w50
Too thin: 5w20
Everything else in between is permissible.


Ah! a diplomat amongst us
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! There is no one answer. There are way too many variables to declare one viscosity is better than the other in all cases. Each engine, type of vehicle and driving circumstances needs to be analyzed in order to see what best suites YOUR vehicle requirements. This includes doing used oil analysis and sharing them with us
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.BITOG offers a wonderful forum to share our experiences and helps us in determining our lubrication requirements. Viva La BITOG!

Whimsey
 
AEHaas. Nice educational reply!

What a shame oil temperature, pressure and other gauges, analog or digital, aren't standard/optional equipment on "everyman" cars. It wouldn't be that hard to do; I know, not market reality.
 
quote:

Originally posted by AEHaas:
One thing I have found in all my performance cars is that the oil temperature does not vary with ambient temperature. If anything, the oil runs a little hotter in the winter. It makes sense as the wheel bearing, transmission, universal joint and other air cooled parts are moving with cooler, thicker lubricants. This increases engine load.
aehaas


You probably have oil coolers on your cars.

May I suggest you read SAE Paper 2001-01-1073 Engine Lubrication Model for Sump Oil Temperature Prediction, Zoz, Steve, et al
 
quote:

One thing I have found in all my performance cars is that the oil temperature does not vary with ambient temperature. If anything, the oil runs a little hotter in the winter.

But your "winter" in Florida isn't enough of a difference in temp to truly see the change. In my Corvette, I see oil temps closer to 207 or 208F at 75mph on an 80F day. In the winter on a 0F day, at 75mph on the highway, the highest I might see is maybe 201F. So it's not a huge difference, but there is definitely a difference. And if I'm just driving around town at lower rpms in the winter it won't get any hotter than 185F, but in the summer it would be closer to 195F.

Another point of note, my computer has been reprogrammed so that my cooling fans run all the time when stopped. So instead of my coolant temp hitting 228F like it used to when stuck in traffic, it now never goes above 192-194. So this does affect oil temp too, since the cooler coolant keeps the oil temps cooler in traffic than before.
 
quote:

To be more specific, what about the bottom-end crank bearings? They seem to be lubed fine by SLX II, same ones as in my "normal" engine. Top-end seem lubed well too on the Mobil Drive Clean 5w30 I am using temporarily. Again, the manual advises against hard running on 5w30, but that probally is targeted at 5w30 conventional with a low HT/HS. Certianly there are synthetic 5w30s that you could run hard on.

I hope they are lubricated well. I see no problem with using a synthetic 5w30 with HTHS =/>3.5.
 
quote:

Ferrari gives still another way to gauge what oil to use. They have several wt grades in the manual but they state that you should get 75 PSI at 6,000 RPM. This is a pressure based solution. It is hard to actually measure flow so we use pressure to indicate the flow until the oil relief pressure valve is reached. As My chapter 109 and 201 show, the optimum flow is with approximately 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM of the engine. The Ferrari manual is very close to this.

If you are heavy on the foot or drive at very high speeds say on the Autobahn, then your oil temperatures would be high and the pressure may only be 60 PSI at 6,000 RPM in your Ferrari. Then you should move to a thicker oil. Again, you have to look at real data, not oil jar labels, then retest.

Too low oil pressure at high RPM may also indicate worn crank bearings. A little late to change to a thicker oil.
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For your information, I have experienced oil pressure lost after sustained high-speed driving right when getting off the Autobahn. That happened with a full synthetic 5w30 oil in my '89 VW Scirocco. After switching to a 10W-40 it never again happened, despite the same type driving. It did however again happen to me in a rental car over there a couple years ago. The poor thing had only under 10k km on the clock!
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Another point of note, my computer has been reprogrammed so that my cooling fans run all the time when stopped. So instead of my coolant temp hitting 228F like it used to when stuck in traffic, it now never goes above 192-194. So this does affect oil temp too, since the cooler coolant keeps the oil temps cooler in traffic than before.

Is that such a good idea? I'm not sure those electric fans were designed for a 100% duty cycle like that. Maybe consider letting coolant temps reach 205* before using the fans. They'll be on a lot less.
 
quote:

Originally posted by kevm14:

quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Another point of note, my computer has been reprogrammed so that my cooling fans run all the time when stopped. So instead of my coolant temp hitting 228F like it used to when stuck in traffic, it now never goes above 192-194. So this does affect oil temp too, since the cooler coolant keeps the oil temps cooler in traffic than before.

Is that such a good idea? I'm not sure those electric fans were designed for a 100% duty cycle like that. Maybe consider letting coolant temps reach 205* before using the fans. They'll be on a lot less.


When I originally got my dyno tune done I asked for the high speed fan setting to be set to come on at 200F and off at 195F, so they weren't running all the time, but for some reason it didn't take when he downloaded the program. I am getting it redone in the spring so I will be getting that readjusted.

But also keep in mind, GM's programming is set up to completely shut down the fans at speeds above 35mph, so no matter how you set up the cooling fans, they will always shut down at those speeds. So they really aren't running at full speed 100% of the time. During the first few minutes of operation they also don't run, as they won't kick in until about 190F.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Doug Hillary:
Hi,
Big John - yes at times we all get "carried away" with the detail

This engine in this country was a source of problems and for a variety of reasons - one may have been the lubricant specified/used

I have some knowledge of the issues and I can tell you that the lubricant one can be solved by using a 0w-40 or 5w-40 A3/B3 Porsche Approved synthetic. The oil's Brand matters very little if any at all and there are a number that have Porsche's Approval (not "meets" or "recommended") readily available.
The other alternative is to use a 5w-40 "mixed fleet" synthetic HDEO - these will do the job splendidly

used oil analysis are unlikely to be conclusive as to best oil Brand against engine model but they will tell you about the oil's condition if used intelligently and assist you in setting your OCI

Regards
Doug


Thank you Mr Hillary..As I said I am unfamiliar with the intricacies of engine oil and want to do good by my engine..I assumed that everyone did used oil analysis to find the best oil for their application,now I get asked what I am going to look at to see if my engine likes one better or not,so now I am just totally confused...Can I tell by uoa that one oil is better than the other????
 
Thanks Patman for confirming the real oil temp. differences winter to summer. There is no way the oil temp. will be higher in the winter than the summer.

And the truth about thicker viscosities is they're design for/help/perform better at higher temperatures and NOT the reverse thinking.....ie. use a thinner lube to lower your oil temps...
 
If you look at Ford's TSB on oil recommendations they specifically state that that 5W-20 is recommended for fuel savings. As I recall they state that 5W-20 or 5w30 is recommended for use in a specific list of vehicles, 5W-20 is noted as not being acceptable for use in some specific vehicles, and not in vehicles that are excluded from the ok to use list.

In summary it seems that if you value fuel effeciency over other attributes then 5W-20 is a good choice if your vehicle approved for such oil. Note that you should also try to check what are oils being used in other parts of the world in your vehicle, as heavier oils than 5w30 are used in some areas even though 5W-20 could be recommended in the US.
 
Another idea for selecting oil thickness. At the tail end of an oil change interval I drained off 40 oz from a 4.5 quart system on my wife's '92 3.0 V6 Aerostar (105,000 miles) and installed 40 oz of 15w50. This vehicle always had 30 weight. I had been topping with the 15w50 and then some Synpower Oil Treatment. It ran fine on straight 30 weight (10w30) at 10.9 cSt 100c viscosity, fine all the way up to about 13 cSt (a very light 10w40), but currently it is up to 14.3 cSt and it feels like the parking brake is left on lightly when I drive it. Perhaps a sign the oil is too thick? Also the engine noise seems deeper toned. Think I will back off to about 12-13 cSt, a nice 10w30/40 borderline mix
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quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:
feels like the parking brake is left on lightly when I drive it.

Changed from a 15.5cSt forty-weight to a 12cSt thirty-weight.
New air filter
New fuel filter
Inflated tires to a more "ideal" pressure.

My parking brake is off now...
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Somtime I think we put to fine a point on this oil thing. Why won't Mobil 1 0w40 serve BIGJOHN year 'round? Seems to me it will work for cold winters and be thick enough for summer.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 427Z06:

quote:

Originally posted by Whimsey:
This is a great site with lots of diverse opinion and facts. Let's not resort to nasty name calling. In case you didn't know from your commie professors, Trotsky, a fellow Bolshevik, was executed in 1940 in Mexico on the orders of Stalin, the darling of America's intelligentsia yesterday and today. If you're going to try to insult people for imposing their views on this site at least get it right and call us fascists
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. A college education today is woefully lacking. The leftists teaching in colleges today can't even get their fellow leftists straight
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Whimsey


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Apparently my slacker Austin friends are at least well educated. They correctly call me a fascist on a regular basis.
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Trotsky = Born Lev Bronstein
 
quote:

Originally posted by dbf:
Somtime I think we put to fine a point on this oil thing. Why won't Mobil 1 0w40 serve BIGJOHN year 'round? Seems to me it will work for cold winters and be thick enough for summer.

Bingo,you hit the nail on the head my friend!!! I have been on a quest for the holy grail of oil.I haven't bought into the GC craze,searched the synthetic world for the optimun oil wether it be brown,purple,red,blue or what have you...Well the search is over I'm running Mobil 1 0w40 in my 5.3 year round and Mobil 1 0w30 in my wife's 3.8,readily available,reasonably priced,plus the buy 3 get 3 deal,the search is over..... anybody want to buy some RP???????
 
BIGJOHN, From my personal experience, Mobil 1 0w40 worked just fine in a 72 Chevy truck running a 383 engine for 93k miles before it moved on to a new owner.
 
quote:

Originally posted by dbf:
BIGJOHN, From my personal experience, Mobil 1 0w40 worked just fine in a 72 Chevy truck running a 383 engine for 93k miles before it moved on to a new owner.

Thanks for the info...I am sure my choice's will work out just fine..
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