The "SeaFoam" Debate.. Yes, No, Or Maybe, and WHY?

[JCCADILLACMOBILE]

I am wondering.. Basically, let me make a Statement, and im sure -everyone- will chime in during the course of Info added to Posts:

Is it true that "Putting in the Recommended amount of SeaFoam, a.k.a. One Can for 10 Quarts of Motor Oil, in the Crankcase, approximately 50 to 100 miles before an Oil Change, will -Help- gradually 'Clean Out' the Engines (Oil Passages, Valves, etc.) and some Sludge that may have accumulated, keeping Oil Passageways clean, and make whatever may have been "Cleaned" go in to the Oil Filter and remainder come out when the Oil is changed, as well as the Filter, thus keeping the Inside of the engine Clean and Efficient, with minimal risk for kicking up a chunk of Sludge, as a Gradual method of keeping the engine in tip-top shape?"

.. And yes, i tried to be specific.

.. Agree? Disagree? FOR SeaFoam? AGAINST SeaFoam?

My Car has 152,000 Miles on it, and to be on the "Safe Side' in case its NOT a good idea (Always someone that says it ISNT a good idea to use,) I had it in for 15 miles.. instead of the 50-100.

(And please forgive me if this has been discussed before, but if its an old old thread.. this is a fesh question about the topic.)

Thats my Third post today, and Im a Man of my Word. Ill watch the answers! Thanks Guys!

 

[bepperb]

If you look at the ingredients, yes it probably does this pretty well. I'm usually against using it because it's unnecessary the majority of the time, but if you just bought this car it's probably a cheap way to feel good that those oil passages are all cleaned up.

Still, from my experience using it to unclog gummed up carbs it certainly isn't some magical potion.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: bepperb
If you look at the ingredients, yes it probably does this pretty well. I'm usually against using it because it's unnecessary the majority of the time, but if you just bought this car it's probably a cheap way to feel good that those oil passages are all cleaned up.

Still, from my experience using it to unclog gummed up carbs it certainly isn't some magical potion.


As said above its not needed for most applications, and not recommended by any manufacturer or any oil company in the world. A synthetic oil will clean any sludge slowly over time if sludge is an issue which it usually is not.

 

[demarpaint]

No first hand experience with it, but from what I've read some love it, some hate it. For a short run just before an OCI I doubt it will hurt anything, and will probably do some cleaning. I'd try it in a beater. JMO

 

[DieselTech]

Workd great to decarb, but it would be a cold day in haties before i put it in my oil

 

[bkbenjy]

I put it in my Altima with 109,000Miles. I put 4 quarts of fresh dino oil and 6 oz of Sea foam. I kept an eye on the dip stick and ran it for a total of 260 miles. I drained the oil this morning. It looked the same color as a synthetic would look like after 3700miles, which is darkish.

So yeah I think it cleaned it.

I put it into the engine because my lifters are audible. I couldn't tell 100% if it quieted it because the lifter are not usually louder than traffic. I will drive it on the weekend when its quiet.

Btw.... This vehicle was purchase new and was regularly maintained with dino until 90,000miles. Then I switched to Synthetic

 

[hounddog]

Rather use MMO(Marvel Mystery oil)in the crankcase and SeaFoam in the fuel.

 

[Vincent_Vega]

If I were to use it, I think that it would be at the end of a run on some cheap dino. I would think that it would do a little extra cleaning. Then switch over to the Pennz Ultra to get some good, slow, methodical cleaning. Run this oil for a couple of intervals and you should be clean as a preachers sheets.

 

[Steve S]

I am not sure what is in Seafoam that does anything except lighten the wallet.

 

[sparkplug]

I have used it in oil with EXCELLENT results. One of my friends bought and old 95 Caprice with an L99 (baby LT1) with 300 something thousand miles. I cracked a valve cover and it was nasty. Changed the oil and added the recommended amount of Seafoam and ran it for oh 400 miles. lol Oil was black as space and cracked the valve covers and it was spotless! As was the rest of the motor when we pulled it for a rebuild. I wish I would have taken pictures but this was before digital cameras were mainstream.

 

[znode]

Let me see... so first you pay for SOPUS/XOM to refine out all the lighter hydrocarbons from crude, to make your motor oil... then you pay more to pour it back into your crankcase?

 

[Audi Junkie]

No, I would never use it in regular practice. To "fix" a problem sludged engine? I would not do it on mine nor a friend's car (because of liability), but I would not try to stop someone...just mock them.

Rubber seals are very easily damaged by this type of chemistry, if you want to flush, try a petro-based solvent like diesel or kerosene.

 

[Bluestream]

Years ago the site was ga-ga over auto-rx. Now its Seafoam. Tommorow???

 

[rclint]

I use it in air cooled engines all the time. I use it in the oil sump, the gas, etc etc. It does an outstanding job of cleaning out thick/sludge neglected engines. I don't see any more problem running seam foam than marvel mystery oil, and as a matter of fact sea foam may actually do a better job of cleaning any sludge. Sea Foam is top notch when it comes to cleaning out gummed up carburetors.

I work on a lot of small engines, old Kohler Cast Iron series engines made in the 60's, and 70's, It's easy to inspect the sump, oil passages, valves/guides etc before, and after sea foam treatment. This is how I know it works, however on a modern multi port fuel injection which does an outstanding job of controlling excessive fueling, fuel sitting in bowls/reservoirs becoming stale etc reduces the need for solvents such as these. Engines that sit for long periods of time suffer from sludge, varnish, gum etc much more so than one that is run on a regular basis while being maintained.

 

[DragRace]

Sea Foam works period. I've seen it clean out fuel systems,and engines

 

[nitehawk55]

I've never felt that engines need any extra cleaners if regular changes have been done .

I have deleted one motor oil for 1 Mercon type tranny fluid though if I felt the engine needed a bit of an extended flush .
I've also added about 1 Qt of Diezel to dirty engines in a 10-20 minute idling in the driveway quick flush .

 

[Audi Junkie]

I think the OP is asking in regards to SF in the oil....and leaving it in.

 

[BuickGN]

I personally would never use it in the oil or intake tract. Water works well in the intake tract, no need to spend money and even then most engines don't need a decarbonization.

What I don't understand, and this is coming mostly from the guys on acurazine, but people are putting this stuff in engines that have
I believe that if the car is run on a good oil at reasonable intervals and fueled with a top tier gas from early on, no type of cleaner should ever be needed.

If I had something that was sludged up the last thing I would do is put a solvent in there and have it quickly plug up the pickup screen. Why not use a good synthetic or even an ester based oil to gradually clean it?

 

[SteveSRT8]

some newer dry manifold designs suffer a lot of oil buildup from PCV.

This causes timing retardation in high performance applications with knock sensors.

Seafoam is very effective in these cases for cleaning up the excess oil when introduced through the PCV. I have personally seen big reductions in KR values.

Note that we have service vans with over 250,000 miles on them that have NEVER had any additives to either fuel or oil. So this is not any kind of blanket recommendation.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: JCCADILLACMOBILE
I am wondering.. Basically, let me make a Statement, and im sure -everyone- will chime in during the course of Info added to Posts:

Is it true that "Putting in the Recommended amount of SeaFoam, a.k.a. One Can for 10 Quarts of Motor Oil, in the Crankcase, approximately 50 to 100 miles before an Oil Change, will -Help- gradually 'Clean Out' the Engines (Oil Passages, Valves, etc.) and some Sludge that may have accumulated, keeping Oil Passageways clean, and make whatever may have been "Cleaned" go in to the Oil Filter and remainder come out when the Oil is changed, as well as the Filter, thus keeping the Inside of the engine Clean and Efficient, with minimal risk for kicking up a chunk of Sludge, as a Gradual method of keeping the engine in tip-top shape?"

.. And yes, i tried to be specific.

.. Agree? Disagree? FOR SeaFoam? AGAINST SeaFoam?

My Car has 152,000 Miles on it, and to be on the "Safe Side' in case its NOT a good idea (Always someone that says it ISNT a good idea to use,) I had it in for 15 miles.. instead of the 50-100.

(And please forgive me if this has been discussed before, but if its an old old thread.. this is a fesh question about the topic.)

Thats my Third post today, and Im a Man of my Word. Ill watch the answers! Thanks Guys!


Seafoam is a perfect product for your situation. It is 100% safe for use in your engine and will not hurt your gaskets or seals in any way as some here love to claim( most of whom it is pretty clear have never even used it so how do they know this? ESP? ). It is a type of solvent agreed but it is not a "harsh" or damaging type so many all of a sudden here claim it is. It is a 100% petroleum based product( per mfg claims for those who say otherwise - I will believe the mfg )that can safely be used in your crankcase. Period and end of story. I have run the stuff for years in various situations as needed and it is GREAT! I have 2 cans in the shed right now. Always keep it on hand for auto, marine, and small engine use.

Ask some of those claiming it will cause harm to provide you one single piece of proof it will do so other than their "opinion"? There are countless testimonials to it's effectiveness on the internet but I have never read one single thing where it was to blame for an internal issue like bearing failure, seals/gaskets destroyed, etc... I have heard of a few small cases where it caused an issue when used through a vacuum line to clean the combustion chamber but those cases were not that it in and of itself harmed anything per say. A back fire that cracked a composite intake and a few fouled plugs and SEL's being tripped is it.

NOTE - 1: Be advised with that many miles and an unknown maintenance history adding Seafoam may lead to the same issues that can arise when swapping to synthetic for the 1st time in a high mileage application. You may see oil leaks, an increase in oil consumption, and even an increase in engine noise. Sludge can internally seal off failed gaskets and seals and it can build up and insulate engine noise. Remove it and these things can become more apparant or show up for the 1st time. Just something to also consider. I would personally do it, and have in many similar applications, but you should be advised what might happen so you have all the facts to make an informed decision.

50-100 miles is the average length of use for your type of situation. It works very well as a sludge remover. It also will free up sticking parts( lifters, rings , etc... )and remove moisture from your crankcase( within reason - talking condensation here not a leaking head gasket or cracked block dumping coolant into the oil ). I actually use it in my 08 5.7L HEMI Ram as a moisture remover during the colder months, even though I run a quality synthetic oil( RP ), due to a poor PCV system. The engines are prone to this issue and the Seafoam does a great job of cleaning out the goo that collects in the oil fill tube, under the VC, etc... just as another poster talked of above me^^^

NOTE - 2: Oil can not remove moisture on it's own so it doesn't matter what brand or type( dino vs synthetic )you use. If the engine has a design flaw that causes condensation the way the Chrysler 5.7L and 4.7L have the age of/mileage on the vehicle/engine is irrelevant. Seafoam can help in situations like this.

15 miles probably didn't do much for you. That is taking it out a little quick. If the engine is really sludged up or you are unsure of the maintenance history I would do it at 50 mile intervals to be safe. If it dissolves/frees up too much it can clog the filter and put it in bypass mode which is not good. However, 50 miles should be fine. It might clear it up in one treatment or it may take 3-4 or more depending on how bad the engine might be? Just check the condition of the oil when changed for an indication of where you are at.

I suggest 50 miles or so before your next OC, or just do it now if you have some cheap oil in there you don't mind dumping already, add the correct amount and then watch the oil on the dipstick. If it really darkens and/or you see anything other than oil on the stick do an OC right away. Otherwise run it out to 50-100 miles. MMO also works well for this but takes a little longer.

I would also suggest you take the remaining product after treating your crankcase and use it through the brake booster or PCV line to clean your combustion chamber per the mfg's directions on the can. It works even better there than in the crankcase. NOTE - once, not every time you treat the oil. Do this step( combustion chamber clens )say every 10K or once p/year as maintenance and it will really help keep the vehicle running strong.