New Project 2018 Mini Cooper S R56 N18

Pennzoil motor oil
S

S62MPOWER

Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
80
Location
California
Hello motorheads!!

Picked up this 2013 Black R56 Mini Cooper S with an N18 engine from a friend with 61,000 miles, well maintained and I have all records.

Sadly, it is an Automatic

I've had BMW's so I know first hand what I'm about to get into. I can do a fair amount of work myself.

I may keep it, do a few Drivers Schools with it, do some work on it or I may sell it.

Records & Condition:
Replaced at 23,000: factory correct latest Delphi Coil Packs
and last 10,000 miles:
Oil filter housing gasket
Serpentine belt with tensioner
Valve cover gasket
Oil line, turbocharger, w o-ring.
Coolant flushed
ATF flushed.

Not sure about waterpump or thermostat

I recently changed:
Plugs (tiny bit of oil in two center spark plug holes, has not returned in 500 miles)
PCV valve/membrain
Pirelli Cinturato P7 SUMMER Tires to replace the Conti AS Dumbflats (massive difference)

Car was using oil, say 2 quarts in 5,000, which is just an estimate and I'm monitoring now after the PCV valve change
to see if that clears up the problem. The valve had been squealing on cold-start, in Winter only, for over a year or 5-8,000 miles.

To go after oil consumption in another way and clean up the engine after a poorly functioning PCV valve, I was going to run Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30.

Im temped to tune the engine, engines that use oil are really not candidates for a tune, as oil in the intake reduces octane, and oil in general can cause a lot of problems in a turbocharged engine. So I want to see if I cant clean it up quickly. I could also install an oil catch can, probably a must-do if I decide to tune it, and I could do a flush with Liqui Moly, a rinse with Mobil Delvac 1300 10W-30 (now SP) perhaps or just use Valvoline Restore and Protect on a short interval after the flush. As I said, I'm a little impatient and that was the reason I was considering a crankcase flush. Normally, I never add anything to oil, ever.

Car needs in my opinion: Front Control Arm Bushings and if I'm going to track it, Ill do an ATF flush fill and filter, I have the proper Aisin fluid already.
Air Filter needs changing

Does anyone have suggestions other than to "Auction the car off immediately!" LOL!! Seriously

I thought that since it needed a PCV service for over a year it might be pretty gunked up, but this car is in a desert climate, so there was no evidence of moisture in the oil, oil cap or PCV membrain. There was some gunk, but not terrible when I wiped out the PCV membrain recepticle. Drives better after servicing that, but I thought I should possibly do a flush before the Valvoline Restore and Protect. Current fill is QS UD Euro 15W-40, probably 5 or 6K miles on it. Once we decide what to do, I'll do a used oil analysis, and that will give us some more data to act on.

I'm very intersted in your opinions and advice! Thanks for reading!!!

Mini N18 .webp
 
From Goggle:
  • Timing chain:
    Often described as a "death rattle" on cold starts. This is caused by worn or stretched chains or a failing tensioner.
  • Oil consumption:
    A frequent problem, often stemming from bore scoring, worn valve stem oil seals, or other internal wear.
  • Turbocharger problems:
    Failures can occur due to oil starvation or blocked oil feed lines.
  • Carbon buildup:
    Direct injection can lead to a significant buildup of carbon on the intake valves, causing poor performance.
  • High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP):
    Can fail, resulting in starting issues, loss of power, and a rough idle.
  • Thermostat housing:
    Plastic housings are prone to leaking coolant over time, which can lead to engine overheating if not addressed.
  • PCV and valve cover:
    The PCV system, integrated into the valve cover, can fail, requiring the replacement of the entire valve cover assembly.
  • Bypass valve:
    The plastic diaphragm in the bypass valve can crack, leading to a loss of boost and performance
 
Oliveoil2 said:
From Goggle:
  • Timing chain:
    Often described as a "death rattle" on cold starts. This is caused by worn or stretched chains or a failing tensioner.
  • Oil consumption:
    A frequent problem, often stemming from bore scoring, worn valve stem oil seals, or other internal wear.
  • Turbocharger problems:
    Failures can occur due to oil starvation or blocked oil feed lines.
  • Carbon buildup:
    Direct injection can lead to a significant buildup of carbon on the intake valves, causing poor performance.
  • High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP):
    Can fail, resulting in starting issues, loss of power, and a rough idle.
  • Thermostat housing:
    Plastic housings are prone to leaking coolant over time, which can lead to engine overheating if not addressed.
  • PCV and valve cover:
    The PCV system, integrated into the valve cover, can fail, requiring the replacement of the entire valve cover assembly.
  • Bypass valve:
    The plastic diaphragm in the bypass valve can crack, leading to a loss of boost and performance
Click to expand...
Thank you @Oliveoil2, and there were some running changes that made the later models a little better off. This one is nearly the end of the run with a build date of April 2013. The timing chain is dead quiet on cold start. Oil consumption we're working on. Oil feed line to the turbo has been replaced. PCV - Done, the rest we'll take as it comes.
 
S62MPOWER said:
I could also install an oil catch can, probably a must-do if I decide to tune it, and I could do a flush with Liqui Moly, a rinse with Mobil Delvac 1300 10W-30 (now SP) perhaps or just use Valvoline Restore and Protect on a short interval after the flush. As I said, I'm a little impatient and that was the reason I was considering a crankcase flush. Normally, I never add anything to oil, ever.
Click to expand...

Congrats on the new toy!
I never seen PCV replace to lower oil consumption. It looks like this engine is another good candidate for Valvoline Restore and Protect. That oil is very patient that is why it cleans for at least 4 OCI, not momentarily. So you should be patient as well. :) Valvoline Restore and Protect is designed to clean slowly on a long intervals (4K-5K miles), not short OCI. The slow work protect the oil filter to get overwhelmed.
If you have a chance to remove the valve cover or/and oil pan, that would give you better idea how clean is the engine on the inside.
 
There is an N16 in our family. You can tell where Peugeot designed parts and where BMW did. There are ways to check timing chain rather than just noise. Definitely do this, as well as replacing the vacuum pump which can seize and wipe out a cam. Also only use the factory Purelux oil filter. Look for leakage from oil pump solenoid harness. There are lots of TSBs on this engine, check them all. It’s definitely not a BMW, you have to think right around it. If this has the Aisin transmission, have fun refilling it. Be patient.
 
.
As mentioned:

- carbon build up
- timing chain
- valve guides and seals
- OC every 5000 mls with BMW LL-04 or LL-19
- avoid running a tune
- Bilstein B6
- since you're in California I'd suggest Michelin PSS, preferably with BMW/Mini spec (205/45 R17 non-runflat)

Good luck, have fun! (y)
.
 
Just a quick update. Yea, if you're going to run a tune on this car, you have to install a catch can. Oil vapors will disrupt normal combustion in a bad way. I was going to run restore and protect, I'll try to change it this week. Why would I run an LL-04 or LL 19 oils? I don't have a GPF to worry about. Daily temps here three months out of the year here in the desert is 110, so high heat with a high heat engine means I need overhead bandwidth protection from viscocity break down and would never use less than a 30W oil in this car. After Valvoline Restore and Protect, if I change oils (the car might like Valvoline Restore and Protect?) I'm considering Mobil 1 Euro ESP 0W-30 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. Mid SAP oils, right? Then perhaps Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 for track days. I Need to get this oil change done and the transmission drained and filled too, holidays are crowding my garage time :ROFLMAO:

I must remember to grab a UO sample. :rolleyes: It has Quaker State Ultimate Durability Euro 15W-40 in there now.

As far as tires, I dumped the runflats and put on Pirelli Cinturato P7 SUMMER tires. Most Pirelli P7 variants (and there are a lot of them! ) are all-season tires which aren't ideal in the Desert. These tires completely changed the car. It's almost comfortable now and far nicer to drive. These are on the stock 16" wheels. These are sporty Summer touring tires, great for the street. You'd need a different tire if you were going to track the car or experience Winter conditions. And for an aggressive street driver, the P7 might be a little soft. I just always figured I'd have different tires at the track and possibly differnt wheels. So I leaned toward comfort before sport this time for my street tire. The Bridgestone RE71's come in a 16" size that are nicely priced and I'm anxious to try them, there are many fans of this tire! Alternatively the Conti Extreme Contact Sport 02 is a natural choice and better all-rounder, could be driven on the street too.

I would need Pads and fluid too. I like Pagid Blue or Yellow Race Pads, lets install some Motul brake fluid and go have a little fun.....Chuckwalla is an hour from here. But before I get carried away...

This little guy needs to go to my mechanic first to get checked before I invest more in it, I want know know how healthy it is before I start anything serious
 
Last edited:
I'll post up some photos soon, ATF refreshed and Valvoline Restore and Protect replaced Quaker State Ultimate Durability today @ 61,500 miles. Regretably, I didn't get a used oil analysis this past change. Next change 63,000. I've got a Check Engine Light, comes on when accelerating hard, will update with the mechanics solution for that when i can get the car in to him. New ATF (drain and fill w OEM Aisin Fluid) at the proper level has it shifting quite smooth now!
 
S62MPOWER said:
today @ 61,500 miles. Regrettably, I didn't get a used oil analysis this past change. Next change 63,000.
Click to expand...
I would first inspect the oil filter before changing the oil at 1,500 miles. If the filter looks fine I would replace only the filter and drive another 1,500 miles, if not 2,500.
 
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