- Joined
- Nov 29, 2021
- Messages
- 4,624
The Fram TG now has a nitrile ADBV?
- Thread starter dlundblad
- Start date
That’s why we have the now famous “burn test” so we can find out 😃😃
What did I cross out?
Was reference to schwinney other thread, he cracked me up sorry
Last edited:
Sorry dlundblad, this thread went off the rails and I got confused. I don't like the Fram threads or the baseplate design either.
I will say for a note that when I had a Honda and the the wife had a Subaru Forester, that they both use FRAM parent as OEM for their factory service parts in N.A. The Honda have a silicon ADBV and the Subaru have nitrile. They each have a P-ring base gasket which are very beneficial/ You may want to try the Honda filter for a better experience. It's the "Universal Asian spin on" filter (except toyota) Just some bypass and efficiency variations. - Ken
I found this pdf Product Recall notice re: defective Subaru service part oil filters in the Fram Knowledge Base section.
That recall is nearly 10 years old
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2021
- Messages
- 333
Is this from a thread that I missed or is this a photo you recently took?
I saw the older memo date( or number) , then I saw the date code blocks thinking the 22 was current year. I forgot they go by decade, so 2 must be year 2012? Is that you take on it?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2021
- Messages
- 333
Took that yesterday at Walmart. None of the silver and orange cans in the 7317 size had silicone anti drain back valves.
The oil will leak out from the bearings. I have never taken apart an engine that has not been run for a while that has has oil in the passages.
Correct. Based on the context of the publishing date and the 3-digit date code (xxx/365) It must apply to 2012-made filters. The first date applicable is 187, which would be July 6th
Black ADBVs, and even a purple ADBV in a Fram has been posted months ago, so you seem to have missed those threads. The TG photo above is not the first.
The search system works pretty good with the new board software.
Last edited:
How do you know the ADBV wasn't the cause? Did you take the engine apart without draining the oil (ie, exposing the oil pump pick-up), and not moving the engine from it's normal orientation in the vehicle? Maybe if the bearings are trash and there's oil above the bearings and it sits for weeks there might be leakage. Depending on the engine, not all oil above the filter can drain out through the bearings. Look at a GM LSx oiling system schematic.
Last edited:
One would think that the bearing clearance tight enough, the molecular cohesion and surface tension of a viscous fluid would hold some oil in there and above. Engines I have worked on are old pushrod V8 an run 30 or 40 grade conventional. Ford 385, 335 and FE, BBC, SBC, RB Chrysler. Buick Nailheads and recently a SB Buick.
I haven't paid close attention as it has never been reason for concern or curiosity, but all teardowns I've done have had wet main and rod bearings, cam and lifter bores, and oil in the pushrods.
The machine shop will detergent clean the block and brush and blow out the galleries after machining then I do it again - if I don't run and grab it from them as soon as it's finished honed
But I have also had partial bottle of the old trisynthetic Mobil 1 5W30 creep oil out of the cap and down the side of the bottle and wet the shop towel it was sitting on. More than once. Cap was lightly tightened. Odd indeed.
I do worry about My wife's Subaru FB noisy engines. Very High Mounted (above the left cam bank) base-down, spin-on "Blue Fram" filter. Every time I change the oil the filter is empty. which means surely each time the car is started it's empty. And certainly a couple hours after a hot shutdown with a light 20 grade oil. And the engine ... she doth protest.
Miss the good oil days of NO ADBV's and filters mounted on the adapter at sump level. - Ken