TGMO 0w-20 - new-to-me 2015 Suburban oil change

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Hi all,

1st post...have lurked for some time. Purchased a 2015 Suburban from my parents with only 13,000 miles and just completed it's 2nd oil/filter change @13,200miles. They had basically adhered to the GM 7500mi service recommendation, and it was due for service #2.

I can get Toyota 0w-20 for $4.32qt, and have always used it in my Tundra. I realize it's not "Dexos" rated, but think it's a very good oil. There are no Toyota filters that fit the Chevy 5.3 (that I'm aware of, anyhow), otherwise I'd use that too!

So, while saying hello, I'd like to ask, who else uses the Toyota 0w-20? Feels kinda naughty using it in the Burb....I like it!
 
I have a `16 that I bought new in Sept. Here is my rationale on oil for it:

Went with Mobil 1, due to:
1. Price (sale and mail in rebates). I bought enough for 8 oil changes. (64 quarts)
2. It's exactly what GM wants in this thing, if there is ever a engine warranty issue, I did my part of using what they wanted and I have documentation and receipts.
3. Oils that are designed for extended drains have a higher additive pack of calcium, which is good, EXCEPT in engines that are DIRECT INJECTED. Calcium rich additive packages can increase the chance of Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI) events. Which as you can imagine is destructive. Mobil 1 uses less Calcium and substitutes Magnesium to make up for the lower calcium.

I believe Exxon/Mobil has done way more R&D on this LSPI issue than any other oil company and are ahead of this issue more than others. The issue of LSPI is even more of a concern for turbo charged direct injection engine like Fords EcoBoost and others that have DI and Turbo.

The next version of Dexos 1 oil will be tested and validated to address this LSPI issue. So at a later date when GF-6 and Dexos1 second generation comes out (2/3 years) I may consider Amsoil or another brand. Schaeffers or other. Depends how much I like the vehicle. Other option is to go cheapo and use whatever second generation Dexos 1 is on sale.
 
My short review:

It has been good. Wife likes it. 0 problems. To nit pick 4 items:
1. Body panel fitment on a door or two, probably can be adjusted
2. Rear visibility can be tricky, even with the backup camera
3. Active Fuel Management (V4 mode) can be annoying.
4. Road noise/booming in interior at times. Known issue on the forums. Not bad, but what it is. (sounds introduced from road conditions or other conditions (bad tire, etc.) can resonate in the large cabin)

Things I really like:
1. Ride
2. better highway fuel mileage than expected. 28.6 mpg best recorded
3. Nice paint
4. Comfortable (front) seats haven't been in the back yet.
5. User interface and controls
6. Peace of mind that parts are cheap and easy to get. (online help/info. is plentiful)
7. Loves the highway. (around town and parking can be clumsy)
 
Thanks for the info....posts like yours are exactly why I joined. Now I'll be looking for more info on additive package calcium concentrations and LSPI events.
 
I basically agree with your pros and cons...and have my own list of about 1000 other things, lol.

I completely agree with the rear visibility w/ backup camera issue, even when the lens is wiped clean. I have a 2005 RX330 that is far better. My 2015 Tundra looks like HD by comparison, and does an amazing job in even low light conditions.

AFM....how to disable???? I've read the posts of booming and interior resonance and generally feel the worst of this is due to AFM. In the week I've owned it, my routine is already to put it in M5, unless on the highway. M5 or below seems to eliminate "V4"mode. I'd like to find a way to eliminate AFM entirely in "M" mode.
 
Formula271,
I have used TGMO in my little Mazda2, which I think would fit in the back of your Suburban lol. However, it is very good oil, particularly when you are starting and warming up due the very high VI. It shear thins quite a lot initially, but then stays stable at about 7.5 cps when hot. Depending on your driving style, I think it's a good choice. If you do a lot of short trips, and don't do a lot of towing I would give it a shot. BTW, less than $5 per quart is outstanding. Best I have done is $70 for a case.
 
As long as you are confident there won't be an problem if a warranty issue comes up, then I'd say go for it.

As you are aware, TGMO is highly-regarded on these forums and $4.32 a quart isn't a bad price for a quality synthetic.

IIRC, there was a bulletin regarding the engine oil capacity for some 2015 GM trucks. Went from 8.5 to 8.0 quarts. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
 
Yep! Updated to 8 quarts.

Regardless to oil selection, being in Michigan, I believe rust will do it in before the engine wears out.
 
Why not use the oil the vehicle specs? Are you really saving much in the long run using a non-Dexos oil?
 
Do a little more research here on both 0W-20 grade oils and oil filters.
I'd personally use M1 AFE over TGMO and the Toyota branded oil filters are nothing special in any application.
TGMO uses a Grp III basestock while AFE uses a blend of Grp III with a substantial fraction of Grp IV, leading to lower volatility as well as better performance in the 0W qualification tests.
M1 is sometimes dirt cheap at Wallyworld and all of the smaller retailers that match Walmart's prices. There are also two Mobil MIR offers each year giving you twelve bucks back on a jug of M1.
TGMO can almost always be found at a deal.
I bought a case I found on CL for forty dollars. You can often find TGMO on CL. Maybe a lot of it falls off the back of trucks or gets lost around dealership dumpsters?
Did two runs of it in our newer Accord just for grins. It was an itch I wanted to scratch.
Having done so, I wouldn't use it again based upon what I've learned here.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Do a little more research here on both 0W-20 grade oils and oil filters.
I'd personally use M1 AFE over TGMO and the Toyota branded oil filters are nothing special in any application.
TGMO uses a Grp III basestock while AFE uses a blend of Grp III with a substantial fraction of Grp IV, leading to lower volatility as well as better performance in the 0W qualification tests.
M1 is sometimes dirt cheap at Wallyworld and all of the smaller retailers that match Walmart's prices. There are also two Mobil MIR offers each year giving you twelve bucks back on a jug of M1.
TGMO can almost always be found at a deal.
I bought a case I found on CL for forty dollars. You can often find TGMO on CL. Maybe a lot of it falls off the back of trucks or gets lost around dealership dumpsters?
Did two runs of it in our newer Accord just for grins. It was an itch I wanted to scratch.
Having done so, I wouldn't use it again based upon what I've learned here.


I'd use the Mobil 1 0w20 over the Toyota 0W20 as well.
 
Exactly.. at $4.32, it's cheaper than the coupon-deal ~$27 for 6qt M1 deal from Costco. And I enjoyed the smirk from my friend seeing the Toyota bottles lined-up ready to be poured-in. I plan on ~5K OCI's.

Regarding the 8.5 -> 8.0 quart capacity change, my understanding is that @8.5 qts, the level shows slightly above the hatched oil range on the dipstick. Probably due to many many customers concerned they're vehicles were overfilled, GM issued a tech notice, and later an owner's manual revision, to reduce the fill w/filter to 8.0 qts. The same tech notice continues to say that filling with 8.5qts despite the "8qt" capacity is perfectly OK. FWIW, I filled with 8.5 after a LONG drip, drip, drip drain, and it seems to be right at the mark....though my driveway is probably not level enough for a valid check.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Do a little more research here on both 0W-20 grade oils and oil filters.
I'd personally use M1 AFE over TGMO and the Toyota branded oil filters are nothing special in any application.
TGMO uses a Grp III basestock while AFE uses a blend of Grp III with a substantial fraction of Grp IV, leading to lower volatility as well as better performance in the 0W qualification tests.
M1 is sometimes dirt cheap at Wallyworld and all of the smaller retailers that match Walmart's prices. There are also two Mobil MIR offers each year giving you twelve bucks back on a jug of M1.
TGMO can almost always be found at a deal.
I bought a case I found on CL for forty dollars. You can often find TGMO on CL. Maybe a lot of it falls off the back of trucks or gets lost around dealership dumpsters?
Did two runs of it in our newer Accord just for grins. It was an itch I wanted to scratch.
Having done so, I wouldn't use it again based upon what I've learned here.



Where's the document or proof that mobil uses a substantial fraction of Grp IV? Also what have you learned about TGMO that makes you not want to use it again?
 
I like the discussion.

I'm reluctant to ask, but what oil would be best for engine longevity? Considering 0 degree Michigan mornings, and summer towing 7000lbs+, is there an ideal 4-season oil? I honestly could care less about fuel economy. I am amused by 1000-mile trips @ 23+ mpg, but what is really best for the engine? M1 0w-40?
 
Originally Posted By: Tech819
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Do a little more research here on both 0W-20 grade oils and oil filters.
I'd personally use M1 AFE over TGMO and the Toyota branded oil filters are nothing special in any application.
TGMO uses a Grp III basestock while AFE uses a blend of Grp III with a substantial fraction of Grp IV, leading to lower volatility as well as better performance in the 0W qualification tests.
M1 is sometimes dirt cheap at Wallyworld and all of the smaller retailers that match Walmart's prices. There are also two Mobil MIR offers each year giving you twelve bucks back on a jug of M1.
TGMO can almost always be found at a deal.
I bought a case I found on CL for forty dollars. You can often find TGMO on CL. Maybe a lot of it falls off the back of trucks or gets lost around dealership dumpsters?
Did two runs of it in our newer Accord just for grins. It was an itch I wanted to scratch.
Having done so, I wouldn't use it again based upon what I've learned here.



Where's the document or proof that mobil uses a substantial fraction of Grp IV? Also what have you learned about TGMO that makes you not want to use it again?


Go to Mobil's website and look for MSDS documents. Input "0w-20" and you'll find both Mobil1 and Toyota synthetic (Mobil makes it). You should see Mobil1 AFE contains 30-40% "1-decene homopolymer...", which is PAO. Toyota synthetic has none.
 
Originally Posted By: formula271
Exactly.. at $4.32, it's cheaper than the coupon-deal ~$27 for 6qt M1 deal from Costco. And I enjoyed the smirk from my friend seeing the Toyota bottles lined-up ready to be poured-in. I plan on ~5K OCI's.




When Mobil 1 is offering $2/qt rebate deals 2 or 3 times per year for 1-2 months at a time, it's the cheaper oil by far. When I bought my M1 0w-40 jugs in 2016 they worked out to be $2.17/qt after rebate. Timing is everything if you plan ahead at least one oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: formula271
Exactly.. at $4.32, it's cheaper than the coupon-deal ~$27 for 6qt M1 deal from Costco. And I enjoyed the smirk from my friend seeing the Toyota bottles lined-up ready to be poured-in. I plan on ~5K OCI's.




When Mobil 1 is offering $2/qt rebate deals 2 or 3 times per year for 1-2 months at a time, it's the cheaper oil by far. When I bought my M1 0w-40 jugs in 2016 they worked out to be $2.17/qt after rebate. Timing is everything if you plan ahead at least one oil change.


wow..i had no idea M1 could be had for $2.17/qt.
 
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