Talk me out of this

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2,435
Location
Mizzou-land
I have a stash of BC (14.3 cSt at 100C as best as I can determine). I have a new, under warrenty, vehicle that recommends only 5W30. I have ordered some 0W5 Racing oil from Redline. I am thinking about cutting the BC with the Redline such that the viscostiy at 100C is around 12 cSt. With the 0W5, that requires only a 10% dilution of the BC. So, the add-pack in the BC will not be off by more than about 10% for the BC components (yes, I do know that there are some errors in that logic). In addition, I am assuming that 90% of the detergent/buffer package of the BC is "enough" given that the racing oil is not likely to be robust in TBN and 'cleaning'. OK. Talk me out of this. What is wrong with this strategy. My plan is get both a VOA and a 4000 mile UOA (leaving the oil in until the results are know). Since I have some noise issues when the engine is cold in the winter, I am thinking about doing a similar thing to my GC stash for the winter. I do recognize that the GC is probably perfect for summer, but I am trying to get good use from the BC.
 
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2,794
Location
NM
Go ahead and mix happy. No harm whatsoever mixing oils. I have done just about every mix possible and have got great results!
 
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13,228
Location
1/2 hr N.E. of Detroit
I would not of purchased that racing oil stuff. It has an add-pack more suited for racing vehicles than normal city/highway driving. May not harm anything -- but it may shorten engine oil life. Mixing "different oil houses" can shorten engine oil life even more. It thins out the base oils and thin outs the differences in add-packs -- in proportion to the percentages that you mixed it. Personally, I would of purchased 5w-20 Syntec & mixed in enough to drop the cSt to 12... (or) I would of either taken back the BC to Auto Zone & exchanged it for something else.
 
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7,409
Location
Austin, TX
quote:
Originally posted by GMorg: With the 0W5, that requires only a 10% dilution of the BC.
More like 15% to get it down to 12 cSt. Is that the high-magnesium low-calcium BC 5w40? Sounds like you're going to mix two expensive oils to get an unknown concoction. I'd keep the OCI really short for this mix unless you had someone like Terry test it.
 
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3,202
Location
Far North East Texas
It's under warranty, and the manufacturer, GM, only recommends 5w30 motor oil- yes? Then I'd run a good 5w30 oil in it & not do any mixing until the warranty is up. Warranty problems can be sticky enough without handing them a bone of contention on a silver platter. JMO
 
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2,338
Location
Charlotte Metro area
Don't do it. PLEASE don't do it! PRETTY PLEASE DON'T DO IT!!!! There. Did I talk you out of it, like you asked us to? [I dont know] I don't know if it is a good idea, bad idea, or neutral idea. So, I cannot really recommend anything. HOWEVER, I will tell you that the Castrol rep that answered my inquiry regarding mixing GC 0-30 with Castrol's syntec 5-20 said the chemistries between those too oils were "too different" to successfully mix...do not know if they were a floor-sweeper or the master blender. Your call. (don't do it, don't do it, don't do it)
 
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13,228
Location
1/2 hr N.E. of Detroit
quote:
Originally posted by Titan: Don't do it. PLEASE don't do it! PRETTY PLEASE DON'T DO IT!!!! There. Did I talk you out of it, like you asked us to? [I dont know] I don't know if it is a good idea, bad idea, or neutral idea. So, I cannot really recommend anything. HOWEVER, I will tell you that the Castrol rep that answered my inquiry regarding mixing GC 0-30 with Castrol's syntec 5-20 said the chemistries between those too oils were "too different" to successfully mix...do not know if they were a floor-sweeper or the master blender.
I believe that! The extreme cold-heat ranges of 0W oils make them a different breed of oil. My suggestion was mixing 5W-40 & 5W-20 thou.
 
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9,427
Location
Pensacola & Vero Beach FL
Well, I'm going to be "demobilizing" after four years back on active duty, and restarting my law practice this fall. Largely as a result of the stuff I've heard here and on a couple other motor head sites, I'm planning to add auto warranty cases to the lines of cases I will accept. Since I'll be needing to drum up business as quickly as I can, I'm going to ignore your request, and encourage you. Go right ahead and do it!!! [Wink] Seriously, if you do run into trouble and make a claim, GM would still have to prove that your concoction caused the problem before they could win a denial. That said, take my hint, why fight a fight (even one you'll probably win) if you don't have to. Save your soup for after the wty is up. [Cheers!]
 
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2,338
Location
Charlotte Metro area
GMorg, the monetary cost of legal fees is the least of the true cost. Your very soul is being tampered with in any legal battle, where your liars are trying to out-maneuver their liars. It's a very unsavory thing at best. [No no] As far as within-family mixes, I'm afraid that is actually against the law in most states. [SPAZ!] Good luck in whatever you finally decide. Oh, and as you requested: don't do it! [stretch]
 

GMorg

Thread starter
Messages
2,435
Location
Mizzou-land
427Z06 - You're right on both accounts. At 10%, the mix will be around 12.8 cSt and it will be an unknown concoction. And yes, it is the high Mg formulation. On the other hand, the Redline is a very high Ca mix. Out of my ignorance on this issue, but experience with mixing aqueous divalents, I am concerned about the Ca-Mg interaction. I will mix a small batch, heat, then cool, then look for a precipitate before I make the larger batch. Triple 7, sounds like you prefer within-family mixes. I can't really find a BC family member. Stuart, I didn't by the vehicle for its warranty. So, if it fails due to lube, then I will either have to accept the cost of repair or the cost of defense. I loose either way. Titan, except for RedLine, I have never heard of any company rep recommending mixing. Plus, there are data here showing that nothing catastrophic happens when mixing the Castrols ekpolk, so what would it cost to defend against lube failure? My guess is that you can replace the entire engine for the cost of legal fees.
 

GMorg

Thread starter
Messages
2,435
Location
Mizzou-land
My Redline 5WT oil arrived last night. To my surprize, when the oil is illuminated by indirect light it is very dark with a fluorescent green undertone. However, when placed into direct light the oil is blue. To further confuse the palette, when the oil is back lit, it is red. When added to BC which is golden, the mix takes on an unnatural greenish tinge.
 

GMorg

Thread starter
Messages
2,435
Location
Mizzou-land
For those the care, the RedLine 5WT oil smells EXACTLY like a freshly opend Band-Aid. It was very odd. I am curious if either the adhesive or the bandage surfactant shares an ingredient with the oil.
 
Messages
223
Location
Sunnyvale, CA
I heard Redline Lightweight Shockproof gear oil is also blue. Not sure about the smell though... I'll report back when I change my tranny oil.
 
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1,463
Location
CA
quote:
Originally posted by FD777: I heard Redline Lightweight Shockproof gear oil is also blue. Not sure about the smell though... I'll report back when I change my tranny oil.
Yep, LW SP is blue. And opaque from all the calcium. I wouldn't use it in a street car... Too thin and doesn't last very long. calcium gets crushed and you have pisswater from gear oil... I'm guessing you have a FD3S (3rd gen) RX-7??? I wouldn't use LW SP. For Redline I'd use MT90, 75W90NS, or 75W140NS. Or any of Royal Purple's gear oils work well in trannies. Motul and Lubri-Moly also... If you're worried about protecting the tranny use a 75W140 and just deal with the notchy shifting at low temps. Practice double-clutching [Wink] GMorg, I'd stay away from the racing oil and thin the BC out with some xW20.
 
Messages
223
Location
Sunnyvale, CA
gtx510, Great guess on my name, most people have no clue. I actually own a Subaru WRX - the 3rd Gen RX-7 is my "budget" dream car. (Although it'll cost a small fortune to maintain...) As for the Redline SP, I'm not using it straight up. I plan on mixing it with other gear oils. Supposedly, it has worked wonders on the Subaru 5-speed MT. I'm skeptical about following forum hearsay, but I haven't heard a SINGLE bad thing about this mix. You're right though, I normally wouldn't try this in a street car. Plus I'm gonna change it out a lot sooner. Probably every 15K instead of 30K. If the mix doesn't work, Redline 75W90NS goes in! Enough with going on a tangent, thanks for your advice though!
 

GMorg

Thread starter
Messages
2,435
Location
Mizzou-land
Well, apparently, I don't listen very well. I made a concoction of 12.3% RedLine 5WT racing oil and 87.7% BC. The result should be about 12.4 cSt @ 100C. I have only recently learned about the wonderfully accurate device known as the "butt dyno". Based on the butt dyno results, I have to say that I like this brew so far. I have never been able to "feel" a difference between different oils. Placebo or real, the switch from GC to BC/Redline has been pleasing. I have stashed a little of the batch for VOA. I still plan to do a UOA too. I haven't decided on the mileage yet though. pscholte: If you do an America/Belgium mating, do you get an Elf-like phenotype?
 
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