Replace both valve cover gaskets (common problem - source of most oil leaks). You can get them from fel-pro under $15 I think. Use high temp RTV sealant on the curves of the valve cover.
I quit using bosch platinum plugs in favor of equal heat range copper ngk, since the platinum won't go 100K (like it said in the brochure). I see no need for the extra cost, esp. if you keep up with other maint. they will go 30k no prob, all for far less $.
Transmission is a weak point, make sure filter and fluid are changed regularly. The pan gasket on the bottom from the factory is weak, which increases the chance that it will fail and you will lose all fluid while driving. You'll start to notice that the trans. will shift roughly or not shift out of gear at all when low on fluid.
If you have drums on the rear, make sure it stays clean and the emergency brake is in good condition. They tend to rust/freeze which is annoying, as you will have to rock the vehicle back and forth pretty hard to break it loose. I had to get a tow truck to drag my van to unstick the emergency brake.
Paint is weak, but you probably already knew that. If it starts to peel or looks thin, spray it with something after you clean the area with mineral spirits. Color match spray paint works well. If you find rust, it's too late.
Give the air filter and breather element a good look over, since it will get sprayed/soaked with oil if the breather system (which is located in the same airbox) is clogged.
I have no idea where the PCV is, but I'd reccomend checking that too.
Wheel bearings are cheap, before you rotate the tires, rock them back and forth (or side to side) to check for wear (while the wheels are off the ground of course).
Orig. shocks are of very low quality parts. You can expect them to need replacement at less than 60k miles. Good replacements should tighten up the handling and improve the ride. They aren't too complicated to replace yourself since the work area is large.
The jack is of poor quality. You can expect to get one or two changes out of it before it fails.
The fuel filter is located on the right side under the sliding door, it's a pain to remove/replace. It should be done about this time. Purolator sells a decent version.
Timing belt, acessory belts, and water pump/thermostat should be changed if they haven't already.
Head gasket problems should be anticipated. Mine had a defective one from the factory. Coolant had oil in it and the overflow had an oily coating that no one could explain.
Rear window wiper motor should be looked at. Early versions had a wiring defect where it would cause the SRS light (airbag) to illuminate and was expensive to fix (even though it should have been covered under warranty).
A/C system uses cheap seals and hardware. Either replace them or use a cheap sealant (the kind that comes with the refrigerant in a can).
The sliding door handle is a pain sometimes. The locking and lever mechanism seems to not respond sometimes and othertimes work fine. If you find this to be the case, open it up and replace it.
The rear liftgate should have had the rear impact latch recall done (I believe it should from the factory), if not, have it done (unless you don't drive it - then i wouldn't worry about it).
Other than general maint. items like lubricating the hinges and all that, they are somewhat reliable.
