If I lived in Florida or any other hurricane zone, I'd be running a small liquid cooled 1800 RPM diesel. Five grand will get you between 6 and 9 kw. These units are very robust, easy on fuel, and will last a life time if properly maintained. I've had one for twenty seven years and it's still going strong. It gets HDEO 30 or 10W30 at 150 hr. intervals.
Take it back or run 40W??? Help!
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I wish I could afford the diesel - that is ideal.
I have already decided to try first, Rotella 30W, and then 15w40.
If there is a mechanical problem, back it goes...again.
If there is no mechanical problem after a week, I'm going to keep it. The computer/battery backup and big screen TV/Dish box are very picky about their power supply, and they come right on with this generator.
Another thing I am going try is to call Generac and see if they will send me a low-pressure switch to swap out. But I'm not putting it into a shop after the horror stories floating around.
If it quits or freezes up or no cooperation, Lowe's gets to deal with it.
Thanks for all the posts. Especially those with long-term hurricane usage.
Von
I have already decided to try first, Rotella 30W, and then 15w40.
If there is a mechanical problem, back it goes...again.
If there is no mechanical problem after a week, I'm going to keep it. The computer/battery backup and big screen TV/Dish box are very picky about their power supply, and they come right on with this generator.
Another thing I am going try is to call Generac and see if they will send me a low-pressure switch to swap out. But I'm not putting it into a shop after the horror stories floating around.
If it quits or freezes up or no cooperation, Lowe's gets to deal with it.
Thanks for all the posts. Especially those with long-term hurricane usage.
Von
does this genset offer some form of voltage regulation??? I'd be leary of $ electronics on a standard genset. lots of them overvolt when underloaded and the waveform can bet pretty sloppy. I'd put the electronics on a voltage regulator (100 bux or so, basically an auto-switching multi-tap line transformer) at a minimum. Or an inverter genset for just the high dollar items-- honda eu series, yamaha, etc..
I cannot speak for all modern gen sets but I bought an inexpensive Champion (Chinese) generator last year. It's rated at 3000 continuous 4000 surge. I bought it primarily for power outages at home. I ran a series of tests with it while breaking the engine in. I ran it under various loads to the point where it kicked a breaker. I cut back the load just enough to maintain max load and ran if for a couple hours like that. Using a digital volt meter, I took numerous readings at various loads. I was surprised and impressed to see that the generator kept a constant reading of 125 volts with a fluctuation of +/- 1 volt when loads changed. I was also impressed to see that the analog volt meter was very accurate.
If one has concerns about sensitive electronics and generators, it might be wise to buy a voltage regulator.
If one has concerns about sensitive electronics and generators, it might be wise to buy a voltage regulator.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
I cannot speak for all modern gen sets but I bought an inexpensive Champion (Chinese) generator last year. It's rated at 3000 continuous 4000 surge. I bought it primarily for power outages at home. I ran a series of tests with it while breaking the engine in. I ran it under various loads to the point where it kicked a breaker. I cut back the load just enough to maintain max load and ran if for a couple hours like that. Using a digital volt meter, I took numerous readings at various loads. I was surprised and impressed to see that the generator kept a constant reading of 125 volts with a fluctuation of +/- 1 volt when loads changed. I was also impressed to see that the analog volt meter was very accurate.
If one has concerns about sensitive electronics and generators, it might be wise to buy a voltage regulator.
I have a similar Champion generator, they are a real bargain as low cost generators go. Mine has an automatic voltage regulator, and the power output is very clean and stable.
The 6.5 horse honda lookalike engine starts on 1 or 2 pulls and runs very nice. I've been running Rotella t-6 5w40 after break in.
I cannot speak for all modern gen sets but I bought an inexpensive Champion (Chinese) generator last year. It's rated at 3000 continuous 4000 surge. I bought it primarily for power outages at home. I ran a series of tests with it while breaking the engine in. I ran it under various loads to the point where it kicked a breaker. I cut back the load just enough to maintain max load and ran if for a couple hours like that. Using a digital volt meter, I took numerous readings at various loads. I was surprised and impressed to see that the generator kept a constant reading of 125 volts with a fluctuation of +/- 1 volt when loads changed. I was also impressed to see that the analog volt meter was very accurate.
If one has concerns about sensitive electronics and generators, it might be wise to buy a voltage regulator.
I have a similar Champion generator, they are a real bargain as low cost generators go. Mine has an automatic voltage regulator, and the power output is very clean and stable.
The 6.5 horse honda lookalike engine starts on 1 or 2 pulls and runs very nice. I've been running Rotella t-6 5w40 after break in.
My eventual plan is to get a Honda/Yamaha 3K inverter for when I don't need the big gen to save fuel. I need a big gen for hurricanes, but I heat with wood, so I can get by with much less in the winter.
The generator ran today for nearly 7 hours in the mid 80's with Rotella 30W and a Carquest (Wix) filter running a 24K 220V window air (2800W run, more surge). I suspect that in the in the 90's with a frig and a couple of freezers it will need the 15w40. But I'm comfortable it isn't an oil pump problem running this long with this much load.
Later in the week it will be 10 degrees hotter and I'll add the frig if it doesn't cut off with the A/C.
The generator ran today for nearly 7 hours in the mid 80's with Rotella 30W and a Carquest (Wix) filter running a 24K 220V window air (2800W run, more surge). I suspect that in the in the 90's with a frig and a couple of freezers it will need the 15w40. But I'm comfortable it isn't an oil pump problem running this long with this much load.
Later in the week it will be 10 degrees hotter and I'll add the frig if it doesn't cut off with the A/C.
For those that are interested, the gen ran again today with Rotella 30W (still in the 80's), but this time with the same 24K window A/C, the frig, and the deep freezer together. No problems. Tomorrow will be in the 90's, and it may kick off with the 30W. If it does, I may try running a box fan on it out of one of the spare outlets before I go to 40W.
I called Generac for questions and a low-pressure switch, but the lady was clueless and referred me to the nearest service center who never called me back. Try again tomorrow.
I called Generac for questions and a low-pressure switch, but the lady was clueless and referred me to the nearest service center who never called me back. Try again tomorrow.
"Bet the Rotella holds up well. You're certainly giving it the "acid test" with this weather!"
Humming at 93 degrees. 4 hours to go.
Humming at 93 degrees. 4 hours to go.
Originally Posted By: meep
sounds like it may be ok, maybe needed to break in some?
You probably got at least one piece of it.
Combination of Rotella 30W is a little thicker/better, maybe the Wix flows a little better, and the engine now has over 20 hours and several heating and cooling cycles/broken in a little bit???
None of the gurus are commenting, but my guess would be a little of all of the above added together to help it out. I'm done because the temp is going back down now. I'm happy with the generator, actually. Nothing else touches the features it has for the $$$. Got to change the oil and put it away for hurricane season.
Thanks for all the comments.
sounds like it may be ok, maybe needed to break in some?
You probably got at least one piece of it.
Combination of Rotella 30W is a little thicker/better, maybe the Wix flows a little better, and the engine now has over 20 hours and several heating and cooling cycles/broken in a little bit???
None of the gurus are commenting, but my guess would be a little of all of the above added together to help it out. I'm done because the temp is going back down now. I'm happy with the generator, actually. Nothing else touches the features it has for the $$$. Got to change the oil and put it away for hurricane season.
Thanks for all the comments.
Our no-name generator has a B&S engine on it with the same system and it kept screwing up no matter how many times we replaced the sensor so we finally bypassed it and just check the oil before each run.
I think it just may be a poor design is all.
I think it just may be a poor design is all.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Our no-name generator has a B&S engine on it with the same system and it kept screwing up no matter how many times we replaced the sensor so we finally bypassed it and just check the oil before each run.
I think it just may be a poor design is all.
Good to know. Someone recommended that if I had enough hours on it to trust the oil pump, just bypass the low-pressure switch. I didn't really want to. Glad I don't have to. Didn't have to use the 40W or the box-fan up to 93 degrees so I still have options, and still have the switch if somehow I spring a leak.
I'm not sure if it is a bad design, or a bad batch of switches, or they just spec'd the switches too close to the operating pressure, or at too low a temp for the oil. Remember, mine is a contractor model with a 3000+ hour expected life. If they mess up and get an over-aggressive switch, everyone is inconvenienced, but they don't have to buy a motor. Spec it low like most car idiot lights, and they may have to replace the engine.
Called again 9am this morning to the authorized service center and no return call (talked to the secretary) again. I won't waste my time if your switches were all bad. Suffice it to say the worst thing about a Generac (besides bad switches) is the Generac service and the warranty service centers. I think my mistake was mentioning I bought the thing at Lowe's. They probably sell them and apparently won't support anyone who doesn't buy from them. Dixie Supply and Equipment in Magnolia, MS if you are in the area.
Our no-name generator has a B&S engine on it with the same system and it kept screwing up no matter how many times we replaced the sensor so we finally bypassed it and just check the oil before each run.
I think it just may be a poor design is all.
Good to know. Someone recommended that if I had enough hours on it to trust the oil pump, just bypass the low-pressure switch. I didn't really want to. Glad I don't have to. Didn't have to use the 40W or the box-fan up to 93 degrees so I still have options, and still have the switch if somehow I spring a leak.
I'm not sure if it is a bad design, or a bad batch of switches, or they just spec'd the switches too close to the operating pressure, or at too low a temp for the oil. Remember, mine is a contractor model with a 3000+ hour expected life. If they mess up and get an over-aggressive switch, everyone is inconvenienced, but they don't have to buy a motor. Spec it low like most car idiot lights, and they may have to replace the engine.
Called again 9am this morning to the authorized service center and no return call (talked to the secretary) again. I won't waste my time if your switches were all bad. Suffice it to say the worst thing about a Generac (besides bad switches) is the Generac service and the warranty service centers. I think my mistake was mentioning I bought the thing at Lowe's. They probably sell them and apparently won't support anyone who doesn't buy from them. Dixie Supply and Equipment in Magnolia, MS if you are in the area.
For more comfort, I have seen many B&S engines run without oil and although they throw a rod or fry the rings/piston you can just replace these parts in most cases and you are back up/running as these engines are tough and can take quite the abuse. I have repaired and rebuilt many. I even welded a block that was damaged by a rod because of no oil and the engine is still in service after 5 years and many hours!
Besides with as anal-retentive as us BITOG folk are we would be able to tell the engine has no oil because of the change in noise the engine tends to make when running out of oil.
No worries buddy, you are good if you want to bypass the switch!
I hear you thought, that it should work properly as designed...
Besides with as anal-retentive as us BITOG folk are we would be able to tell the engine has no oil because of the change in noise the engine tends to make when running out of oil.
No worries buddy, you are good if you want to bypass the switch!
I hear you thought, that it should work properly as designed...
Originally Posted By: StevieC
For more comfort, I have seen many B&S engines run without oil and although they throw a rod or fry the rings/piston you can just replace these parts in most cases and you are back up/running as these engines are tough and can take quite the abuse. I have repaired and rebuilt many. I even welded a block that was damaged by a rod because of no oil and the engine is still in service after 5 years and many hours!
Besides with as anal-retentive as us BITOG folk are we would be able to tell the engine has no oil because of the change in noise the engine tends to make when running out of oil.
No worries buddy, you are good if you want to bypass the switch!
I hear you thought, that it should work properly as designed...
I would agree with you about the sound if I was standing right there. But with the A/C and TV going, or passed out at 3am from cutting trees out of the roads all day, or waiting in line for gas somewhere, I wouldn't hear it, so I would love to have the switch.
The rebuild aspect is good, but one I don't want to explore since I'd have to pay someone to do it based on the warranty service around here. I'm not capable myself.
For more comfort, I have seen many B&S engines run without oil and although they throw a rod or fry the rings/piston you can just replace these parts in most cases and you are back up/running as these engines are tough and can take quite the abuse. I have repaired and rebuilt many. I even welded a block that was damaged by a rod because of no oil and the engine is still in service after 5 years and many hours!
Besides with as anal-retentive as us BITOG folk are we would be able to tell the engine has no oil because of the change in noise the engine tends to make when running out of oil.
No worries buddy, you are good if you want to bypass the switch!
I hear you thought, that it should work properly as designed...
I would agree with you about the sound if I was standing right there. But with the A/C and TV going, or passed out at 3am from cutting trees out of the roads all day, or waiting in line for gas somewhere, I wouldn't hear it, so I would love to have the switch.
The rebuild aspect is good, but one I don't want to explore since I'd have to pay someone to do it based on the warranty service around here. I'm not capable myself.
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Be a true BITOGER... Put an oil pressure gauge on it!
Rotella 30w should be ideal for your climate. As long as its working well, use it and don't stress about it!
Can't believe it. Got a call today 7/16/10 from Dixie - said had anybody answered my question?.........no, I have this generator with this problem, etc.......and he said I didn't know Generac made a generator with a Briggs engine...............oh well, never mind.
Originally Posted By: Von
Can't believe it. Got a call today 7/16/10 from Dixie - said had anybody answered my question?.........no, I have this generator with this problem, etc.......and he said I didn't know Generac made a generator with a Briggs engine...............oh well, never mind.
The Generac web site states that the XP8000E generator has a Generac engine, with all of the features that that designation entails, like 3 t0 4 times engine life and many other desirable features. The Generac website has no generator with a Briggs & Stratton engine listed. Not surprising that a Generac rep did not know of a Generac with a B&S engine.
Can't believe it. Got a call today 7/16/10 from Dixie - said had anybody answered my question?.........no, I have this generator with this problem, etc.......and he said I didn't know Generac made a generator with a Briggs engine...............oh well, never mind.
The Generac web site states that the XP8000E generator has a Generac engine, with all of the features that that designation entails, like 3 t0 4 times engine life and many other desirable features. The Generac website has no generator with a Briggs & Stratton engine listed. Not surprising that a Generac rep did not know of a Generac with a B&S engine.
Originally Posted By: Von
$1349 plus tax = $1443
Not a bad deal. This model lists for $1729 at Northern Tool.
$1349 plus tax = $1443
Not a bad deal. This model lists for $1729 at Northern Tool.
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