Take a chance on putting an impact on this fastener?

Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
212
Location
MD
1991 Accord fuel tank strap holding bolts?

20250213_122729.webp
 
Bolt looks ok to me, the flats are still mostly there. I bet if you put an impact socket onto it, it'd slide on and hold ok.

Now when you hit it with the impact wrench, it's possible that everything else will spin with the bolt. It's a bit crusty...

But I think it'll zip out. My pure guess, even without any penetrating fluid, it's everything around the bolt that looks super bad--the bolt head doesn't look too bad. The threads it goes into might be awful, but who knows. I say, put the socket on, rap it with a hammer, then try to zip off. [Full disclosure--not a mechanic.]
 
I say that the entire rusted assembly will snap off with the bolt in it. Penetrant for a couple days may help, induction heater instead of torch by fuel tank.

Next question what are your plans for if it does come out? What are the plans for when that whole piece crumbles apart? Will it need to go to a shop to get fixed? Maybe just go there.
 
Probably need to plan for a creative method of a long bolt dropped from the top with some large washers to secure the strap on reassembly. That crusty bolt will spread everything out with it.
 
Penetrant for a few days and a 6pt socket on an impact would be my plan. I just removed a lot like that on my tracker and they all came out to my surprise. May need to work it back and forth some if there are a lot of threads exposed.
 
I can see the whole thing breaking off, forget penetrant it is not going to do anything for that mess. The metal where the captured nut is located is rotten, the strap is gone. If it were me I would hit it with the impact and let it break off if that is what is going to happen and be thankful if it actually does come out. Get the tank out and repair the rotted area with new metal mig welded in with a new nut tacked on from behind or use a large riv nut. New straps.
I suspect this is getting ugly real fast, if you are not up to this sort of repair farm the job out.
 
Clean it off with a wire brush and find a socket that fits as tight as possible, SAE or Metric. If nothing fits tight put a piece of paper over it and drive the tightest socket on with a small hammer then use the impact driver.
 
I say that the entire rusted assembly will snap off with the bolt in it. Penetrant for a couple days may help, induction heater instead of torch by fuel tank.

Next question what are your plans for if it does come out? What are the plans for when that whole piece crumbles apart? Will it need to go to a shop to get fixed? Maybe just go there.
My understanding is that it is a bracket with a welded nut on the other side.

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/honda/17511sm4000

It is a available at amayama but the time to wait is March.
Need to replace the fuel pump because Japanese makes from the early 90s used metal not designed for ethanol-ridden gas.

I have searched for online documentation from other forums. The best I got was that one dude said he had to drop the rear sub assembly to access and replace the brackets. I was not able to take a picture, but the bolts not visible and holding the bracket to the body/frame is not so rough.
 
My understanding is that it is a bracket with a welded nut on the other side.

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/honda/17511sm4000

It is a available at amayama but the time to wait is March.
Need to replace the fuel pump because Japanese makes from the early 90s used metal not designed for ethanol-ridden gas.

I have searched for online documentation from other forums. The best I got was that one dude said he had to drop the rear sub assembly to access and replace the brackets. I was not able to take a picture, but the bolts not visible and holding the bracket to the body/frame is not so rough.
Can you remove the back seat and then a plate to get access to the top of the fuel tank?
 
Its not important how you get it out, even if you sawzall the bracket. Because the bracket is no good. get the tank out and weld in new brackets. No use putting new straps on some shaky bracket. Its going to come apart anyway with the impact.

If that is more than you are set up for, take it to a shop.
 
Rattle wrench will break it fast, I even have tested that before on a bolt that didn't matter, I had already removed like 6 of them that were very very difficult by hand and thought hmm lets see what happens. One blip and it was broke on the lowest setting.
It would have easily broke the other 6 as well, yes lots of penetrate was used too.
 
What's your plan for hanging it back up? OE straps or something more universal? I'm with Trav, it's going to break. Picture isn't wide enough for me to imagine what else to hang a strap from, but you'll have the opportunity with the tank out to get creative.
 
What's your plan for hanging it back up? OE straps or something more universal? I'm with Trav, it's going to break. Picture isn't wide enough for me to imagine what else to hang a strap from, but you'll have the opportunity with the tank out to get creative.
I current bought some of these galvanized straps for mobile homes.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tie-Down-1-1-4-in-x-35-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Strap-59150L/100318594

There is a junkyard car with straps from 1996 that could work.
 
Back
Top Bottom