Yes, I would say that our '07 Honda has good switchgear, no looseness or play. Even after 17 years, nothing has broke and all the switches work properly.
Tactile feel—does it matter to you?
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I really like all aspects of my 2007 E92, switches and levers, really. I love how the turn signals and wiper controls, and cruise for that matter, have no detents.
Now that I've gotten through the Toyota master power window switch job, here are some insights. The Toyota simply doesn't feel like the BMW, but I still want it to work as designed. As I go around the 18.5 yo car, many of the switches don't work well anymore (mirror controls, pass power door lock, etc.)
I had more than one aftermarket part, none worked. I thought I was done ($626? Amayama here I come?).
Then I got a bright idea. I absolutely need my original circuit board, but, what if I were to separate the buttons from the circuit board? Use new buttons from the aftermarket, on the old rest of the switch housing containing the circuit board, which plugs into the car?
It worked. So I'm out $24, which is just fine. AND, now I can see, the OE Toyota is "NOT" the same as the aftermarket. It does seem to be a little better, but not $600+ better. And the main goal was to have auto up, up, auto down, down, all working for the front passenger side, as that window is in fact used a lot from the driver seat. At the end of the day, the Toyota feel just isn't like the BMW feel on these switches. It's not just the windows but virtually all.....and this is a flagship car, yet it has the same switch setup as a Corolla. I do understand many don't care, and some do. I do....
Here is the broken piece--the button rotates on it, one on each side--consistent with what broke on the BMW as well (guess it's time/plastic aging)
Toyota original has 4 gold contacts, unlike the aftermarket, so I reused it
Aftermarket buttons used, not the silicone insert which a ma thingy
The original Toyota circuit board, not exactly the same as aftermarket but similar
checking functionality without trim
end product working. Worth $24 to get the pass side working as it should again (all auto, all manual--tendency for one or other when worn). If you notice, the color is black, not gray, I'm good with it.
Now that I've gotten through the Toyota master power window switch job, here are some insights. The Toyota simply doesn't feel like the BMW, but I still want it to work as designed. As I go around the 18.5 yo car, many of the switches don't work well anymore (mirror controls, pass power door lock, etc.)
I had more than one aftermarket part, none worked. I thought I was done ($626? Amayama here I come?).
Then I got a bright idea. I absolutely need my original circuit board, but, what if I were to separate the buttons from the circuit board? Use new buttons from the aftermarket, on the old rest of the switch housing containing the circuit board, which plugs into the car?
It worked. So I'm out $24, which is just fine. AND, now I can see, the OE Toyota is "NOT" the same as the aftermarket. It does seem to be a little better, but not $600+ better. And the main goal was to have auto up, up, auto down, down, all working for the front passenger side, as that window is in fact used a lot from the driver seat. At the end of the day, the Toyota feel just isn't like the BMW feel on these switches. It's not just the windows but virtually all.....and this is a flagship car, yet it has the same switch setup as a Corolla. I do understand many don't care, and some do. I do....
Here is the broken piece--the button rotates on it, one on each side--consistent with what broke on the BMW as well (guess it's time/plastic aging)
Toyota original has 4 gold contacts, unlike the aftermarket, so I reused it
Aftermarket buttons used, not the silicone insert which a ma thingy
The original Toyota circuit board, not exactly the same as aftermarket but similar
checking functionality without trim
end product working. Worth $24 to get the pass side working as it should again (all auto, all manual--tendency for one or other when worn). If you notice, the color is black, not gray, I'm good with it.
I don't like the bmw turn stalks because they return to center when you're blinking to one side. I'm used to feeling which direction I'm blinking based on the position of the stalk which doesn't work with BMW
They do have excellent feel. I hate mushy buttons/dials
They do have excellent feel. I hate mushy buttons/dials
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Exactly what I like, no detent.
To be fair, it’s totally possible to not know what speed/mode the wipers are in, but I still like it.
With turn signals, there are less possibilities than with the wipers.
Cruise control that is always on: PRICELESS.
And different than my Maxima—when clutch depressed, cruise temporarily off, then resumes when clutch released. With the maxima, cruise disengaged when clutch depressed.
My new window switches on the Toyota, feel way better than before. Not quite the same as the BMW. I have to say the GM is a tad better than Toyota, for windows and locks.
Had to say that's an awesome fix you did on the toyota window switches! Just swapped over the aftermarket plastic switch actuators (since the silicone is what makes contact/switch with the circuit board) and boom! done.. sounds like after 18+ years the plastic just gave up. Anyway had to send you congrats on an awesome and cheap fix! If that ever happens with my Scion I'll definitely get an aftermarket switch and re-use the Toyota board!
I did look up what those window switches are priced at after your post.. dannnggg!! you're not kidding, ridiculous for a switch!
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Thanks, yeah now I realize ok maybe $23 isn’t same as OE….so I’m glad I didn’t throw away the BMW switch even though aftermarket feels really nice. The breaking of both cars and similarly where the switch rocks and attaches (2006 and 2007) now tells me there’s something to plastic “expiring.”
I have two cars: a 2005 Fusion SEL and a 2018 Buick (Opel) Regal. The feel of the wiper and signal control stalks could not
be more different: those of the Ford operate with a damped precision, as if bathed in oil or silicon. They are a joy to use.
By contrast the Buick's controls feels hollow, disposable and irredeemably cheap. I cringe with every use. In opinion, this
is not merely a lapse in quality but a display of contempt by the manufacturer for the consumer.
Yes! And this is why I HATE toggle hi-beams. I want a lever that pushes forward and stays there. That way I can tell with my left hand if my high beams are on without taking my eyes off the road (those without contacts that dry out in the winter or from dash vent air flow may not understand).
I don't know if this is technically "tactile" so much as "position" feel.....
I don't know if this is technically "tactile" so much as "position" feel.....
I just want what ever needs to switched on-off will just work. I've never though about the feel.
A few months after I got the LS400, the driver's window switch paddle broke off at its pivot.
I found a practically new, matching set of window switches on ebay. I don't recall how much they were asking, but I'm sure they weren't more than a few hundred dollars.
Because the wood in the LS is supposed to be matched for color and grain, I just removed and swapped over the switch panel to the existing wood.
Now with any Toyota, I purposely avoid using the auto-up function just to keep from stressing the paddle pivot.
A few months after I got the LS400, the driver's window switch paddle broke off at its pivot.
I found a practically new, matching set of window switches on ebay. I don't recall how much they were asking, but I'm sure they weren't more than a few hundred dollars.
Because the wood in the LS is supposed to be matched for color and grain, I just removed and swapped over the switch panel to the existing wood.
Now with any Toyota, I purposely avoid using the auto-up function just to keep from stressing the paddle pivot.
I hate vehicles that don't have buttons and knows. Very important and less distracting. My wife's 18 Civic, I couldn't adjust anything while driving as everything was touch screen. Needs to go back and get rid of screen, would probably reduce accidents. Don't get me started on push button starts, ugh need a place for my keys and not in my pocket.
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I would have to redo this job to understand why, after cleaning it, removing and swapping buttons from the aftermarket, etc, everything feels great. Then, it degrades again.
My main purpose when I started this thread was to be able to fully control one of the most important windows, the front passenger side. I still can, but the resistance is very high. The rears are still good.
Again, what happens with full auto, is the resistance is so high, that one can't really adjust manually to where they want, and then it goes past that point and does a full auto down, or full auto up.
Given the price of these modules, Toyota could do a lot better. In my case, NONE of the knock-off parts worked. So I had to take the buttons from the knock off, and switch it to my original module. Became a note to self, never toss the original even if buttons broken.
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