Synpower or Mobile 1 HM

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I've got a Ford Ranger with a 4.0 V6. I was using Valvoline but this last fill I went with the M1 HM 5 30. What's the popular opinion between these two. I'm considering switching back to the Synpower 5 30. Which holds up better with less wear? I change oil religiously at 5000 miles.
 
What is your reasoning for using a HM oil? I would only use HM oil if the engine has excessive oil consumption or its leaking

How do you know that Synpower creates less wear? I would need a least two consecutive UOA with both oils to establish a trend to see which creates less wear.

If the car does not consume lots of oil or leaks, i would opt for the Synpower 5w30.
 
The M1 HM is significantly heavier so conventional wisdom would say it would wear less.

But with 5000 mile oci and a choice between 2 quality synthetics, I cannot imagine any significant difference between the two.

There is also the possibility that the HM oil has more cleaning ability and will remove the previous oils anti wear layer faster. With 5000 mile oci's, this could cause more wear as the new layer is never on for long.

But this is splitting hairs. I say go for the cheapest quality oil you can buy. A friend of mine felt Synpower 5w30 was too heavy for his Ford and preferred SOPUS 30 weight alternatives.
 
Maybe I'm operating under a misunderstanding. I assumed M1 high mileage 5 30 would be the same as synpower 5 30 but better for the engine seals. I've always ran Valvoline but decided to try M1 after good results from their V-twin oil in my last motorcycle. I was just curious about your opinions on one over the other. I'm thinking I'll go back to the Valvoline. Maybe do a couple UOAs to compare.
 
I would have to say, or give the edge to Mobil 1 HM. Mainly from popularity. But, the most popular HM oil is deffinately MaxLife. Just my opinion!
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I would have to say, or give the edge to Mobil 1 HM. Mainly from popularity. But, the most popular HM oil is deffinately MaxLife. Just my opinion!


+1

With 5k OCI I don't think your receiving any benefit of M1 HM that you wouldn't receive from MaxLife at a much lesser price point. IMHO either stick to M1 HM and get an UOA at say 6k and look to move onward in mileage OR keep the 5k OCI and go maxLife and be happy.
 
Originally Posted By: olskoolblu
The Maxlife y'all recommend, is that the Dino oil? I believe they make a syn version as well.


Its a synblend, maxlife doesn't come as a dino.
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
The M1 HM is significantly heavier so conventional wisdom would say it would wear less.

But with 5000 mile oci and a choice between 2 quality synthetics, I cannot imagine any significant difference between the two.

There is also the possibility that the HM oil has more cleaning ability and will remove the previous oils anti wear layer faster. With 5000 mile oci's, this could cause more wear as the new layer is never on for long.

But this is splitting hairs. I say go for the cheapest quality oil you can buy. A friend of mine felt Synpower 5w30 was too heavy for his Ford and preferred SOPUS 30 weight alternatives.


Thicker oil does not mean better protection and less wear.
 
Between the 2 brands of oil you mentioned, I've used MOSTLY Valvoline Synthetics, synpower and maxlife (Yes, there is a full synthetic Maxlife now, comes in a silver bottle) in my Corolla since it had 25 miles on the clock. Now, looking into the oil fill hole, there's a layer of varnish that wasn't there when new. I understand Mobil 1 does a better job at cleaning so I'm gonna switch over to M1 HM for a few oci's and see if it will help with the varnish. I'm a Valvoline fan but after seeing this varnish it's making me have 2nd thoughts.
 
Originally Posted By: Eosyn
Now, looking into the oil fill hole, there's a layer of varnish that wasn't there when new. I understand Mobil 1 does a better job at cleaning

I wouldn't be so sure. I've seen varnish buildup with M1, as well as with Castrol.

If you want to prevent varnish buildup, PU is probably a better bet.
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
The M1 HM is significantly heavier so conventional wisdom would say it would wear less.

But with 5000 mile oci and a choice between 2 quality synthetics, I cannot imagine any significant difference between the two.

There is also the possibility that the HM oil has more cleaning ability and will remove the previous oils anti wear layer faster. With 5000 mile oci's, this could cause more wear as the new layer is never on for long.

But this is splitting hairs. I say go for the cheapest quality oil you can buy. A friend of mine felt Synpower 5w30 was too heavy for his Ford and preferred SOPUS 30 weight alternatives.


Yes, oils that clean well are bad as they remove the wear layer they put on? One wonders how the wear layer was ever deposited in the first place. That explains why the roadside it littered with PU, PP, M1 - induced engines failures.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Eosyn
Now, looking into the oil fill hole, there's a layer of varnish that wasn't there when new. I understand Mobil 1 does a better job at cleaning

I wouldn't be so sure. I've seen varnish buildup with M1, as well as with Castrol.


I`ve seen varnish buildup with almost all oils,synth or dino no matter the brand. Could extended oci`s be the blame?
 
I use G-Oil 5w30 in my 03 Ranger 4.0.

160000 miles on the truck and last 2 oil changes with the G-Oil.

Runs great, Quiet and no start up rattle. No oil consumption worth mentioning.

To be honest, The only OC related issue I ever had was a slight start up rattle with a P1 filter, Went back to Motorcraft and had no issues.

Switched to G-Oil because of the "All U.S.A. Content"
 
Mobil1's SN oils are much better than their SM versions.

I would pick Mobil over Valvoline, more TBN.

Mobil's SN has great UOA's now.

I find Valvoline add packs a bit weak.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I`ve seen varnish buildup with almost all oils,synth or dino no matter the brand. Could extended oci`s be the blame?


I don't think extended OCIs are to blame for the varnish. When I first got my vehicle, I did 3k ocis, then went to the Toyota recommended 5k, then I found BITOG and was well educated and my ocis went up to 6k. The most extended oci was this last change @ 6,491 miles. I plan on running current fill for 7k miles and get a uoa from blackstone (kit just arrived today).

Pete and Aquarius, thanks for the input. If that is the case I'll just stick with Maxlife silver bottle
smile.gif


I know varnish isn't really bad for your engine as sludge is, but what kind of damage can it do to the engine, if any?
 
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The standout synthetic at Walmart is Pennzoil Ultra - the others are also-ran. Think 10w30 in the summer. Pick a brand and stick with it unless you have issues, this way you can get the (bogus?) engine warranty and you dont have issue with conflicting DP shuffling. Overall nothing will make a difference in the engines fate. Also dont waste $$ on UOA. You a long haul trucker with a $$$$$ sump? Forget it. UOA dont evidence engine wear - thats a fallacy. Use only if you suspect a coolant leak or want to do a TBN retentio on a big sump for OCI extension.
 
You guys actually find PU SN on WM shelves down there in the States cheap?

Geez, I'd jump and dance as if O.J. was let off for murder if I'd ever bumped into PU at WM again.

How much does it run you a jug for PU at WM? 28$?

Or do you have to wait for a big sale? What is the Everyday low price for PU?
 
After looking at M1s website, I'm going to go with M1 5w 30 synthetic, not the high mileage. They say their high mileage oils are for engines that have over 75k miles and have had a steady diet of dino oil. Mine is just reaching 75k and has had fresh synthetic every 5k.
 
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