Is the EP 5w30 pretty good especially in high heat?
Compared to what?
Is the EP 5w30 pretty good especially in high heat?
PUP or Motul 5w30Compared to what?
How would we know that? Go look at some of the UOAs posted here for it. In addition, Valvoline's website states that their EP oil provides ultimate protection against heat---whatever that means. You will then know as much as we do about it.Is the EP 5w30 pretty good especially in high heat?
Why aren't you sticking with pup?How would we know that? Go look at some of the UOAs posted here for it. In addition, Valvoline's website states that their EP oil provides ultimate protection against heat---whatever that means. You will then know as much as we do about it.
It's a good oil. I have used it in my 5.0 and I will be going back to it from PUP on my next oil change.
To be honest, mostly for price. Every 5,000 miles happens quickly for me at 600 miles a week and the difference between the two is significant with filter. Plus, the Valvoline is a bit thicker, has more moly, and has a nice HTHS of 3.2, which I believe is the only non Euro oil with the sunburst and API that gets that close to a 3.5 HTHS.Why aren't you sticking with pup?
Nice. I used a bottle of ep 0w20 last year. May go back to that next change. ThanksTo be honest, mostly for price. Every 5,000 miles happens quickly for me at 600 miles a week and the difference between the two is significant with filter. Plus, the Valvoline is a bit thicker, has more moly, and has a nice HTHS of 3.2, which I believe is the only non Euro oil with the sunburst and API that gets that close to a 3.5 HTHS.
What would you look at on the UOA to tell if the oil is good with high heat?How would we know that? Go look at some of the UOAs posted here for it. In addition, Valvoline's website states that their EP oil provides ultimate protection against heat---whatever that means. You will then know as much as we do about it.
It's a good oil. I have used it in my 5.0 and I will be going back to it in my 3.5 from PUP on my next oil change.
In a 2015 gmc hd with the 6.0......Is the EP 5w30 pretty good especially in high heat?
Super helpful. Thank you. Do you think api sp without respurce conserving would be an issue IF I ever need warranty work?
You don't think going to 40 is too much?View attachment 214295
This is from the 2022 Subary WRX owner's manual.
I assume you like to enjoy that WRX from time to time. That highlighted portion with blue up there is your ticket to better oil.
It it was mine I would do the following:
1) Install a decent oil catch can, at least 6 oz.
2) Use Quaker State Euro 5W-40 in it. It's Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 in a Quaker State bottle. My guess is that Shell is selling their excess production in Quaker State bottles. It's very good oil, IMHO better than Mobil 1 0W-40 and 5W-40. Once you start using a catch can, you'll realize pretty quickly how much faster it fills up when using 0W-XX oils vs. 5W-XX motor oils. In a GDI engine I switched from M1 FS 0W-40 to QS Euro 5W-40, and I barely get anything in the catch can now.
Alternatively, there is Mobil 1 FS 5W-30, which is actually very good oil, made with GTL base stock. Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is another great choice.
However, for best bang for the buck, get QS Euro 5W-40. It's barely a 40 grade oil, more of a 30 grade, and it has a ~3.6 HTHS.
It depends on the brand. Red Line Oil 5W-40 - I'd say don't do it. But QS 5W-40? All day long. You're looking at this the wrong way. Stop looking at kinematic viscosity, and look at HTHS instead. For reference, Red Line 5W-40 has 4.4 HTHS, while QS 5W-40 is 3.6. With Red Line 5W-40 you would see a drop in fuel economy for sure. In other words, that QS Euro 5W-40 is a 5W-30 all day long, and if it wasn't for ILSAC and API's classification of Resource Concerving oils and the limit on phosphorus, they would sell it as 5W-30. Use it without a worry in the world. It's clean GTL base stock oil with a very good additive package.You don't think going to 40 is too much?
Too much for what?You don't think going to 40 is too much?
MB specs the M139(most powerful production 4cyl ever made)with 0w20 229.71. The 6600 has every spec mentioned. My 2 pennies
View attachment 214339
Slightly different but the 229.71 spec is designed to handle the stress created by the M139. Spirited driving around town id comfortably run 0w20, and do in my FL5. Track use a stout 5w30 would be great.Very true, but M139 is also 7 years newer. Doubt FA24 had 0W20 in mind during the design stage.
FA24 allows for ACEA A3 and A5 in the manual outside US for example. M139 does not.
FA24 and M139 have drastically different torque curves aswell,
376Nm from 2000rpm vs peak torque closer to 5000rpm for M139 depending on variant.
Just my two Swedish kronor.
Which 0w20 do you run in your fl5?Slightly different but the 229.71 spec is designed to handle the stress created by the M139. Spirited driving around town id comfortably run 0w20, and do in my FL5. Track use a stout 5w30 would be great.
How is it designed to do that? HT/HS is HT/HS, as well as the MOFT. A 20-grade can have only so much.Slightly different but the 229.71 spec is designed to handle the stress created by the M139. Spirited driving around town id comfortably run 0w20, and do in my FL5. Track use a stout 5w30 would be great.
I run molygen 0w20 in the FL5, ran top tec 6600 in my Amg Cla 45 with the M139.Which 0w20 do you run in your fl5?
229.71 requires HTHS of 2.7-2.9. It also has to meet the requirements for MB extended intervals which are 10k miles or 1 year. Obviously we aren't pushing the oil that long which is even better. As for MOFT there is no published data. There is increased oil shearing inside the bearings which increases with RPM. The M139 engines redline at 7200, which is drastically higher than that of an FA24. There is also an increase in bearing wear if you increase viscosity beyond the minumun requirements. For temps of 230F I'd say protection is there with a 229.71 oil. Maybe someone with far more knowledge has some more input on this topic though.How is it designed to do that? HT/HS is HT/HS, as well as the MOFT. A 20-grade can have only so much.
Do you know the hths of the molygen? The local subaru speed shop recommends 5w30 either motul or molygen.I run molygen 0w20 in the FL5, ran top tec 6600 in my Amg Cla 45 with the M139.
229.71 requires HTHS of 2.7-2.9. It also has to meet the requirements for MB extended intervals which are 10k miles or 1 year. Obviously we aren't pushing the oil that long which is even better. As for MOFT there is no published data. There is increased oil shearing inside the bearings which increases with RPM. The M139 engines redline at 7200, which is drastically higher than that of an FA24. There is also an increase in bearing wear if you increase viscosity beyond the minumun requirements. For temps of 230F I'd say protection is there with a 229.71 oil. Maybe someone with far more knowledge has some more input on this topic though.