Switching to 5w30

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qts are priced higher per unit of volume.
Not at Amsoil.com. I paid $12.69 quart online (free shipping) and the auto parts store was selling them for $16.
Per gallon, my price is $50.76 gal. Most-all Amsoil gallons are above $57 + shipping.
It pays to look for sales beforehand and I still do, despite my wife being rich - but plays penny-pincher with me.
 
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Not at Amsoil.com. I paid $12.69 quart online (free shipping) and the auto parts store was selling them for $16.
Per gallon, my price is $50.76 gal. Most-all Amsoil gallons are above $57 + shipping.
It pays to look for sales beforehand and I still do, despite my wife being rich - but plays penny-pincher with me
ato.de would be my supplier. Stiff competition to say the least.
Ravenol comes in at
9.5 euro/L in in multiple 5L jugs.

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I think I provided one Amsoil link. Mainly because I used it 4 years in my WRX. I also posted 3 criteria with nothing about Amsoil.

I have NOT pushed Amsoil on you.
Not you. I meant in car culture in general. It's been pushed a lot by others and burned me on it.
 
You won’t find any.
Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 does - it's MB 229.71 approved. However, they're rare.

I'm pretty against Amsoil tbh. I know it's a good oil bit there are a lot of good oils and I just can't stand the amsoil push. I don't see myself buying it.
The is no such thing as "AMSOIL push". Sure, the less-than-knowledgeable salesfolk out there tend to talk nonsense and can get annoying, but no one can force you to buy it or use the product. With that said, AMSOIL makes excellent products, above the ordinary bargain-priced Walmart varieties.

What're your thoughts on QSUP?
It follows the same formulation as the QSFS motor oil, with some added tweaks that won't show up in a VOA, like more anti-oxidants. It's probably good oil, not any better or worse than similar motor oils.

I have found the newest M1 5W30 EP D1 / Gen 3 rated Synthetic oil to be surprisingly quiet in my otherwise noisy Hyundai Sonata - this could make for a good choice (don’t extend OCI beyond what your OM calls for).
I have a hard time telling the difference, if any, in engine oils between oil brands, even viscosity. I once tried M1 EP 0W-20 in a 3.3L Hyundai GDI engine, and fuel mileage was excellent. I did it because that's the viscosity they recommend in Germany for that specific engine. The only drawback was that at startup there was additional timing chain related noise, and I didn't like it.
 
Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 does - it's MB 229.71 approved. However, they're rare.


The is no such thing as "AMSOIL push". Sure, the less-than-knowledgeable salesfolk out there tend to talk nonsense and can get annoying, but no one can force you to buy it or use the product. With that said, AMSOIL makes excellent products, above the ordinary bargain-priced Walmart varieties.


It follows the same formulation as the QSFS motor oil, with some added tweaks that won't show up in a VOA, like more anti-oxidants. It's probably good oil, not any better or worse than similar motor oils.


I have a hard time telling the difference, if any, in engine oils between oil brands, even viscosity. I once tried M1 EP 0W-20 in a 3.3L Hyundai GDI engine, and fuel mileage was excellent. I did it because that's the viscosity they recommend in Germany for that specific engine. The only drawback was that at startup there was additional timing chain related noise, and I didn't like it.
I was looking into the mobil 1 euro and a couple other euro oils that do have API SP but aren't non resource conserving. Is that resource conserving part important for the subaru FA24DIT application?
 
Is that resource conserving part important for the subaru FA24DIT application?
Resource Conserving means fuel economy, motor oil with a less than 3.5 HTHS. You trade wear protection for fuel economy. At least in theory. In practice, it's mostly up how well the engine is designed. Driving style, abuse, etc., also come into play. You drive like a normal person, perform sensible OCIs, use what's recommended.
 
Resource Conserving means fuel economy, motor oil with a less than 3.5 HTHS. You trade wear protection for fuel economy. At least in theory. In practice, it's mostly up how well the engine is designed. Driving style, abuse, etc., also come into play. You drive like a normal person, perform sensible OCIs, use what's recommended.
I do OCI of about 3-3.5k miles. I don't care about fuel economy. But I do care about warranty amd protecting my motor.
 
I do OCI of about 3-3.5k miles. I don't care about fuel economy. But I do care about warranty amd protecting my motor.
From personal experience, and from the spec sheets that I've seen, most premium ILSAC GF6A 5W-30 motor oils are in fact 0W-30 motor oils (barely). There are some outliners like Valvoline EP 5W-30, with a HTHS of 3.2, but most of these 5W-30 oils have a HTHS of 2.9. What makes them not so great is their volatility. Since most of these oils don't have any Euro approvals, their volatility seems to be pretty high. In fact, Euro manufacturers either go with a 0W-20 with specific OEM approvals, or a 0W-30/5W-30 with 3.5 or higher HTHS, again, with Euro approvals.

You want 5W-30 with API SP and VW504 approval. That would Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30. Buy it a Autozone in 5 quart jugs, online, get a filter with each jug, so it comes out to about $27 per jug. You can run this oil for 5K miles easy.

If you want to stick to 0W-20, then get Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 with MB 229.71 approval, or Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 with the same approval, plus Dexos D and VW508. I mean, M1 ESP X2 0W-20 is used in the Duramax 3.0L Turbo Diesel engine, I'm sure it will do just fine in your Subaru.
 
Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 does - it's MB 229.71 approved. However, they're rare.


The is no such thing as "AMSOIL push". Sure, the less-than-knowledgeable salesfolk out there tend to talk nonsense and can get annoying, but no one can force you to buy it or use the product. With that said, AMSOIL makes excellent products, above the ordinary bargain-priced Walmart varieties.


It follows the same formulation as the QSFS motor oil, with some added tweaks that won't show up in a VOA, like more anti-oxidants. It's probably good oil, not any better or worse than similar motor oils.


I have a hard time telling the difference, if any, in engine oils between oil brands, even viscosity. I once tried M1 EP 0W-20 in a 3.3L Hyundai GDI engine, and fuel mileage was excellent. I did it because that's the viscosity they recommend in Germany for that specific engine. The only drawback was that at startup there was additional timing chain related noise, and I didn't like it.
Ah, I forgot. Actually, it is readily available at Walmart. But no ILSAC GF-6 and MB229.61 or LL01FE/LL12FE 0/5W30.
 
From personal experience, and from the spec sheets that I've seen, most premium ILSAC GF6A 5W-30 motor oils are in fact 0W-30 motor oils (barely). There are some outliners like Valvoline EP 5W-30, with a HTHS of 3.2, but most of these 5W-30 oils have a HTHS of 2.9. What makes them not so great is their volatility. Since most of these oils don't have any Euro approvals, their volatility seems to be pretty high. In fact, Euro manufacturers either go with a 0W-20 with specific OEM approvals, or a 0W-30/5W-30 with 3.5 or higher HTHS, again, with Euro approvals.

You want 5W-30 with API SP and VW504 approval. That would Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30. Buy it a Autozone in 5 quart jugs, online, get a filter with each jug, so it comes out to about $27 per jug. You can run this oil for 5K miles easy.

If you want to stick to 0W-20, then get Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 with MB 229.71 approval, or Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 with the same approval, plus Dexos D and VW508. I mean, M1 ESP X2 0W-20 is used in the Duramax 3.0L Turbo Diesel engine, I'm sure it will do just fine in your Subaru.
Super helpful. Thank you. Do you think api sp without respurce conserving would be an issue IF I ever need warranty work?
 
Go to WalMart and pick up the M1 5W-30 of your choice. There is no downside to any of the quality synthetic 5W-30's. I use M1, 5W-30EP in my supercharged Jag (in FL) that calls for 0W-20 and 18,000 mile OCI's.

Like so many modern engines, my AJ126 Jag engine suffers on 0W-20. The AJ126 is a variant of the very reliable older Jag design, that used 5W-40. Jag improved the chains so they would just live through the warranty period with the 0W oil, and even used larger rod bearings to carry the load safely. Guess what fails, the main bearings, the cams and tappets. Inadequate viscosity for the design still has consequences.
Always wondered what would happen if I put 0-20 in my MB.;)
 
From personal experience, and from the spec sheets that I've seen, most premium ILSAC GF6A 5W-30 motor oils are in fact 0W-30 motor oils (barely). There are some outliners like Valvoline EP 5W-30, with a HTHS of 3.2, but most of these 5W-30 oils have a HTHS of 2.9. What makes them not so great is their volatility. Since most of these oils don't have any Euro approvals, their volatility seems to be pretty high. In fact, Euro manufacturers either go with a 0W-20 with specific OEM approvals, or a 0W-30/5W-30 with 3.5 or higher HTHS, again, with Euro approvals.

You want 5W-30 with API SP and VW504 approval. That would Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30. Buy it a Autozone in 5 quart jugs, online, get a filter with each jug, so it comes out to about $27 per jug. You can run this oil for 5K miles easy.

If you want to stick to 0W-20, then get Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 with MB 229.71 approval, or Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 with the same approval, plus Dexos D and VW508. I mean, M1 ESP X2 0W-20 is used in the Duramax 3.0L Turbo Diesel engine, I'm sure it will do just fine in your Subaru.
Super helpful. Thank you. Do you think api sp without respurce conserving would be an issue IF I ever need warranty work?
 
I'm just worried about excess wear from running 0w20 when oil temps get 212-230 often here in the georgia summers. How do you find what temps oils can get to?
Oil temps get to about 215+ in my wife's naturally aspirated 2017 Forester if it's over about 70 degrees and we're freeway driving about 70mph. I haven't checked it doing 85+ through the barren wastelands into a 20+mph wind climbing decent hills and mountain passes. I just figure it's getting hot enough to burn some extra carbon out of it at that point.
 
Do you think api sp without respurce conserving would be an issue IF I ever need warranty work?
The Euro oils generally aren't actually API SP certified. Rather, they are "recommended for API SP applications", or "meet API SP engine testing requirements". They don't meet all API SP requirements, and aren't what Subaru specifies for your engine. I'd say that warranty denial risk is low, but not zero.

Your max oil temperature of 110°C is really not that high. An API 5W-30 at that temperature will be equivalent to a 0W-20 oil at ~103°C. These cars can hit upwards of 115°C on the street and 125°C on track, and engines and oils tend to be tested with sump temperatures of up to 150°C. You'll have plenty of margin with an API 5W-30.
 
I wish. For you 6L!

I will ask again. I asked a long time ago. People who need only 4 quarts, can buy 4 qts. Tough to carry gallon jugs and 5 qt jugs.
Understand your point Pablo but I would think the majority of vehicles nowadays would be real close to or more than 5 qt. capacity. In fact it's probably the 4qt. sumps that are the exception. Amsoil should be catering to the
5 qt. guys.
 
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