SuperTech SAE 30 Lawn Mower Oil VS. SAE HD-30

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I have a 2015 Craftsman Push Mower with a Briggs and Stratton model 10000 725exi series OHV engine. They claim that the original oil is good for the life of the engine and does not require changing. However, I don't believe that and so I still want to change the oil before each mowing season anyway. The owner's manual says to use a detergent oil classified for service SF, SG, SH, SJ, or higher. SAE 30 is recommended for use in temperatures above 40 degrees F, which is what I plan to use (I live in Florida). When I was browsing the oil selection at Walmart, I noticed that for the SuperTech brand SAE 30 viscocity, there was a choice of "Lawn Mower Oil" and "Heavy Duty 30". According to the labels, the lawn mower oil meets the SJ service level that does satisfy my engine requirements, but the HD 30 meets the SN spec, which I know is a more modern spec. and currently the highest industry standard for oil available. Ultimately, I am tossed up between the two as to which would be the better choice for my application. So my question here would be what is the actual difference between these two oils in terms of formulation and intended application and which of the two seems like a better choice for my mower?





 
Great username
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What's wrong with the Lawnmower 30? It meets SJ, your mower calls for SJ it's a no brainer
 
I’m pretty sure the SJ oil has a lot more zinc. Either one should work fine in a Briggs-powered mower.
 
When I change my Honda walk behind mower, once every couple years, I use what ever.....15w40 diesel, or 10w40, 10w30, those are the 3 oils I have on hand for that. I'm not buying any "special" oil for a splash lube ball bearing crankshaft motor. Do you know what a splash lube ball bearing crank setup looks like. It could care less what kind of oil gets splashed on it.
 
Originally Posted By: KneeGrinder
When I change my Honda walk behind mower, once every couple years, I use what ever.....15w40 diesel, or 10w40, 10w30, those are the 3 oils I have on hand for that. I'm not buying any "special" oil for a splash lube ball bearing crankshaft motor. Do you know what a splash lube ball bearing crank setup looks like. It could care less what kind of oil gets splashed on it.


^^^^ this^^^^ My lawnmowers, generators, and snow blowers get drip oil. Whatever is left in the bottle of oil, ATF, gear oil, MMO...whatever..... change it every year and they haven't died yet. Pretty crude engines. I would buy whatever is cheapest, but that's just me.
 
It’s great you are interested in this but you’ll notice the manufacturer doesn’t give a sit if you ever change the oil. Use what’s cheaper because I know that packaging oil as “lawnmower oil” is just marketing and they often jack the price. There is probably no oil drain plug. Honda did away with their plugs quite a long time ago. If there’s no plug you’ll have to tip the mower to the side and drain it out the fill hole. The mower will fall apart before the engine ever fails.

SF
 
For my purposes, my simple mnomic is

SJ:JUST old enough
SN:NOT old enough

I'd guess a lawn mower is flat tappet so I'd use SJ, but if I couldn't/wouldn't use it in anything else I might not buy SJ specially
 
You are gonna question my cognitive abilities after I tell you I use Amsoil Small Engine oil in my rider engine and their 20w-50 in the transaxle.

But to answer your question, I would use the straight 30 weight.
 
For some reason I still have these old B&S Owner manuals. Verbatim from the Owner Manual from my 22 yr old Murray push mover with B&S 2.5 horse engine : Use SAE 30 in warmer temperatures of 40° F and higher (5° C and higher).

May also use SAE 10W-30 for a varying temperature range of 0 to 100° F (-18 to 38° C), this grade of oil is preferred for cold weather starting.

The owner manual for my 15 yr old snowblower also with a B&S engine is similar but geared naturally for winter cold: Verbatim from the OM: 5W-30 is the best for very cold temperatures of -20 to as high as 120° F (-30 to 40° C) providing the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption. I have not had to use my snowblower for a couple of years but I do start it up once and usually give it a shot of ether as well. These engines are not that picky as far as oil goes. I do not treat them particularly well and mower still works after 22 years and snow blower after 15 years. Other than replacing carb and spark plugs and 2 sets of wheels on the mower they have been reliable and trouble free despite my lackluster maintenance. I run straight 30 in both,as I do not plan on trying to start my snowblower when it is -20. As a rule heavy snows tend to happen at higher temps in the mid to high 20's. At -20 I am staying in where it is warm, the last thing I will be doing is starting my snowblower. LOL!!
 
I use Castrol GTX HD 30wt in my mower and 4cycle trimmer. My dad used it for like 20 some years in his equipment. Its about $4.50/qt @ Walmart.

I agree with others use whatever is cheaper. The engine wont know the difference.
 
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I mix leftover oil from outboard 10w30-and Ducati 20w-50 and use this in all my small engines.
 
Either, changed seasonally, regardless of hours, will insure the lubricated internals of the engine are the last thing that fails on the mower.

Just buy a gallon of Rotella SAE 30 and have your "lifetime fill".
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Originally Posted By: c502cid
Originally Posted By: KneeGrinder
When I change my Honda walk behind mower, once every couple years, I use what ever.....15w40 diesel, or 10w40, 10w30, those are the 3 oils I have on hand for that. I'm not buying any "special" oil for a splash lube ball bearing crankshaft motor. Do you know what a splash lube ball bearing crank setup looks like. It could care less what kind of oil gets splashed on it.


^^^^ this^^^^ ...whatever..... change it every year and they haven't died yet. Pretty crude engines. I would buy whatever is cheapest, but that's just me.


Same here.

15W-40 HDEO is what I buy in 2, 5 or 30 gallon containers and nearly every engine on my ranch gets it.

Your engine will last a LONG time, even if you DON'T change the oil "every year"
 
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