Supertech value is attractive. But then I think, why would I bother with Supertech when I can get Mobil 1 at $14 per jug? The rebate is going on right now.
supertech full synthetic 5qt for $11.88, what's the catch?
- Thread starter haley10
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Originally Posted by Patman
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
SN+ and D1G2 what's the problem? Wal Mart has had a solid relationship with Warren Distribution for a very long time and I don't see that going away anytime soon (where my Wal Mart gets their oil). I've been a Mobil1 user since it came out in the '70's. I pondered for 3 months about Super Tech oil and finally made the switch (syn motor oil and syn gear lube). So far I'm very impressed with their products. We'll see how it goes in the long run. Mobil1 5w-30 HTHS 3.1 Super Tech Syn 5w-30 HTHS 3.2. Saving $10 per oil change without rebates isn't bad either.
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
SN+ and D1G2 what's the problem? Wal Mart has had a solid relationship with Warren Distribution for a very long time and I don't see that going away anytime soon (where my Wal Mart gets their oil). I've been a Mobil1 user since it came out in the '70's. I pondered for 3 months about Super Tech oil and finally made the switch (syn motor oil and syn gear lube). So far I'm very impressed with their products. We'll see how it goes in the long run. Mobil1 5w-30 HTHS 3.1 Super Tech Syn 5w-30 HTHS 3.2. Saving $10 per oil change without rebates isn't bad either.
For many moons, I thought I was using the right oil. The best oil. Beautiful oil. And very nice filters. The nicest. The best.
Only to find out, a lifetime later, that it would not have made a difference at all, for me. Casual commuter car. OEM recommended oil & filter changes.
Today, I buy whatever is on sale, or I have a coupon for.
Only to find out, a lifetime later, that it would not have made a difference at all, for me. Casual commuter car. OEM recommended oil & filter changes.
Today, I buy whatever is on sale, or I have a coupon for.
Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by BLND1
I'm currently running supertech full synthetic high mileage in my 2v 4.6. It's doing just fine.
We are looking at a new subaru with a turbo - considering running supertech in that as well, but my wife is an Formula 1 fan - (Ricciardo [Team Renault]) so she will probably want me to put in Castrol Edge. Oh well.
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
I'm sure Supertech works just fine for the average gently driven car, but at the same time I don't think I'd trust it to keep the engine perfectly clean for hundreds of thousands of miles like the higher quality synthetics would. Plus with Supertech you never know what you're going to get, they have a few different suppliers depending on what region of the country you're in, plus they could change suppliers at a moment's notice too.
I'm running Chevron Supreme 5w30 SN+ (blend) in a 2016 2.0 ecoboost, I'll get it tested after 5,000 miles. If the results are good I'd assume any synthetic oil(or SN+ rated oil for that matter) regardless of who makes it would be sufficient for a turbo or direct injection engine. The supertech oils regular and synthetic are SN+ rated for what it's worth. New oils cheap or expensive, regular or synthetic, are very good oils especially doing 5,000 mile intervals. We tend to over think these things, which is why we're all here.
Originally Posted by BLND1
I'm currently running supertech full synthetic high mileage in my 2v 4.6. It's doing just fine.
We are looking at a new subaru with a turbo - considering running supertech in that as well, but my wife is an Formula 1 fan - (Ricciardo [Team Renault]) so she will probably want me to put in Castrol Edge. Oh well.
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
I'm sure Supertech works just fine for the average gently driven car, but at the same time I don't think I'd trust it to keep the engine perfectly clean for hundreds of thousands of miles like the higher quality synthetics would. Plus with Supertech you never know what you're going to get, they have a few different suppliers depending on what region of the country you're in, plus they could change suppliers at a moment's notice too.
I'm running Chevron Supreme 5w30 SN+ (blend) in a 2016 2.0 ecoboost, I'll get it tested after 5,000 miles. If the results are good I'd assume any synthetic oil(or SN+ rated oil for that matter) regardless of who makes it would be sufficient for a turbo or direct injection engine. The supertech oils regular and synthetic are SN+ rated for what it's worth. New oils cheap or expensive, regular or synthetic, are very good oils especially doing 5,000 mile intervals. We tend to over think these things, which is why we're all here.
Originally Posted by Corollaman
Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by BLND1
I'm currently running supertech full synthetic high mileage in my 2v 4.6. It's doing just fine.
We are looking at a new subaru with a turbo - considering running supertech in that as well, but my wife is an Formula 1 fan - (Ricciardo [Team Renault]) so she will probably want me to put in Castrol Edge. Oh well.
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
I'm sure Supertech works just fine for the average gently driven car, but at the same time I don't think I'd trust it to keep the engine perfectly clean for hundreds of thousands of miles like the higher quality synthetics would. Plus with Supertech you never know what you're going to get, they have a few different suppliers depending on what region of the country you're in, plus they could change suppliers at a moment's notice too.
I'm running Chevron Supreme 5w30 SN+ (blend) in a 2016 2.0 ecoboost, I'll get it tested after 5,000 miles. If the results are good I'd assume any synthetic oil(or SN+ rated oil for that matter) regardless of who makes it would be sufficient for a turbo or direct injection engine. The supertech oils regular and synthetic are SN+ rated for what it's worth. New oils cheap or expensive, regular or synthetic, are very good oils especially doing 5,000 mile intervals. We tend to over think these things, which is why we're all here.
We go overboard on motor oil here. But there are worse things to go overboard on.
Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by BLND1
I'm currently running supertech full synthetic high mileage in my 2v 4.6. It's doing just fine.
We are looking at a new subaru with a turbo - considering running supertech in that as well, but my wife is an Formula 1 fan - (Ricciardo [Team Renault]) so she will probably want me to put in Castrol Edge. Oh well.
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
I'm sure Supertech works just fine for the average gently driven car, but at the same time I don't think I'd trust it to keep the engine perfectly clean for hundreds of thousands of miles like the higher quality synthetics would. Plus with Supertech you never know what you're going to get, they have a few different suppliers depending on what region of the country you're in, plus they could change suppliers at a moment's notice too.
I'm running Chevron Supreme 5w30 SN+ (blend) in a 2016 2.0 ecoboost, I'll get it tested after 5,000 miles. If the results are good I'd assume any synthetic oil(or SN+ rated oil for that matter) regardless of who makes it would be sufficient for a turbo or direct injection engine. The supertech oils regular and synthetic are SN+ rated for what it's worth. New oils cheap or expensive, regular or synthetic, are very good oils especially doing 5,000 mile intervals. We tend to over think these things, which is why we're all here.
We go overboard on motor oil here. But there are worse things to go overboard on.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Patman
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
SN+ and D1G2 what's the problem?
Because I still feel that other oils are going to be much better at keeping the engine clean in the long run, and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic. QSUD is only $4 more and Mobil 1 (as already mentioned) ends up being cheaper with rebates, so there really isn't a good reason (IMO) to use Supertech synthetic.
Originally Posted by Patman
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
SN+ and D1G2 what's the problem?
Because I still feel that other oils are going to be much better at keeping the engine clean in the long run, and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic. QSUD is only $4 more and Mobil 1 (as already mentioned) ends up being cheaper with rebates, so there really isn't a good reason (IMO) to use Supertech synthetic.
Originally Posted by Patman
Because I still feel that other oils are going to be much better at keeping the engine clean in the long run, and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic. QSUD is only $4 more and Mobil 1 (as already mentioned) ends up being cheaper with rebates, so there really isn't a good reason (IMO) to use Supertech synthetic.
That I absolutely agree with. If I ever buy something high performance or start doing track events, I'd be using something higher end than what I do now.
Because I still feel that other oils are going to be much better at keeping the engine clean in the long run, and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic. QSUD is only $4 more and Mobil 1 (as already mentioned) ends up being cheaper with rebates, so there really isn't a good reason (IMO) to use Supertech synthetic.
That I absolutely agree with. If I ever buy something high performance or start doing track events, I'd be using something higher end than what I do now.
Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Patman
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
SN+ and D1G2 what's the problem?
Because I still feel that other oils are going to be much better at keeping the engine clean in the long run, and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic. QSUD is only $4 more and Mobil 1 (as already mentioned) ends up being cheaper with rebates, so there really isn't a good reason (IMO) to use Supertech synthetic.
Feels... as good a metric to choose a motor oil as any, I suppose.
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Patman
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
SN+ and D1G2 what's the problem?
Because I still feel that other oils are going to be much better at keeping the engine clean in the long run, and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic. QSUD is only $4 more and Mobil 1 (as already mentioned) ends up being cheaper with rebates, so there really isn't a good reason (IMO) to use Supertech synthetic.
Feels... as good a metric to choose a motor oil as any, I suppose.
Originally Posted by Patman
Because I still feel that other oils are going to be much better at keeping the engine clean in the long run, and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic.
You are correct about high performance applications.
If I had a high performance application, I would get better oil also. For a lot of people, with just daily commute cars, they don't need anything more than whatever their OEM spec is. They will drive 30 minutes to work, the car sits all day, then drive 30 minutes home. Racing, towing, all day engine idle like fleet vehicles - sure, it's better. And for a personal vehicle, where that is your money invested, there's perceived value.
At work, the fleet vehicles are driven around the clock. Wide Open Throttle, extensive idling, everything you would expect from commercial driving. 1 shift hands the keys to the next shift. Hundreds of miles a day. At least 1,000+ miles a week. Round off to 50,000+ miles a year. Quarter million mile average after 5 years. Oil change is every month or 5,000 miles, or about 10 per year. Fleet service company uses the least expensive oil & filters. I have never seen a catastrophic engine failure related to bulk oil & generic filters. Other things fail in 250,000+ miles & 5 years. But we've never lost a car, where the engine seized, because of sludge from bad oil & filtration.
I have heard that if you tear down the engine after hundreds of thousands of miles, the engines using full synthetic are cleaner. There is probably truth to that. Although with modern cars, I wonder how many people will keep a car up to the point where the engine needs to be torn down and rebuilt. And if it's economically feasible to rebuild or install remanufactured motors, into a 20 year old car. With a 20 year old vehicle, there will be so many other issues, that cost of repairs will exceed the Blue Book value of the car. But I get it. Even today, we have enthusiast who are spending money on their '99 or older, whatever make and model.
Because I still feel that other oils are going to be much better at keeping the engine clean in the long run, and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic.
You are correct about high performance applications.
If I had a high performance application, I would get better oil also. For a lot of people, with just daily commute cars, they don't need anything more than whatever their OEM spec is. They will drive 30 minutes to work, the car sits all day, then drive 30 minutes home. Racing, towing, all day engine idle like fleet vehicles - sure, it's better. And for a personal vehicle, where that is your money invested, there's perceived value.
At work, the fleet vehicles are driven around the clock. Wide Open Throttle, extensive idling, everything you would expect from commercial driving. 1 shift hands the keys to the next shift. Hundreds of miles a day. At least 1,000+ miles a week. Round off to 50,000+ miles a year. Quarter million mile average after 5 years. Oil change is every month or 5,000 miles, or about 10 per year. Fleet service company uses the least expensive oil & filters. I have never seen a catastrophic engine failure related to bulk oil & generic filters. Other things fail in 250,000+ miles & 5 years. But we've never lost a car, where the engine seized, because of sludge from bad oil & filtration.
I have heard that if you tear down the engine after hundreds of thousands of miles, the engines using full synthetic are cleaner. There is probably truth to that. Although with modern cars, I wonder how many people will keep a car up to the point where the engine needs to be torn down and rebuilt. And if it's economically feasible to rebuild or install remanufactured motors, into a 20 year old car. With a 20 year old vehicle, there will be so many other issues, that cost of repairs will exceed the Blue Book value of the car. But I get it. Even today, we have enthusiast who are spending money on their '99 or older, whatever make and model.
...and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic.
I cannot argue against that point. If I had an expensive HP vehicle I would probably be using a name-brand oil.
For a lot of people, with just daily commute cars, they don't need anything more than whatever their OEM spec is. They will drive 30 minutes to work, the car sits all day, then drive 30 minutes home. Racing, towing, all day engine idle like fleet vehicles - sure, it's better. And for a personal vehicle, where that is your money invested, there's perceived value.
Agree!
Even today, we have enthusiast who are spending money on their '99 or older, whatever make and model.
Spent a lifetime as a mechanic. I keep up on maintenance items on my old junks. Smart parts purchases and doing my own work keeps it reasonable. Every time I spend money and do repairs my wife says "cheaper than a car payment and insurance".
I cannot argue against that point. If I had an expensive HP vehicle I would probably be using a name-brand oil.
For a lot of people, with just daily commute cars, they don't need anything more than whatever their OEM spec is. They will drive 30 minutes to work, the car sits all day, then drive 30 minutes home. Racing, towing, all day engine idle like fleet vehicles - sure, it's better. And for a personal vehicle, where that is your money invested, there's perceived value.
Agree!
Even today, we have enthusiast who are spending money on their '99 or older, whatever make and model.
Spent a lifetime as a mechanic. I keep up on maintenance items on my old junks. Smart parts purchases and doing my own work keeps it reasonable. Every time I spend money and do repairs my wife says "cheaper than a car payment and insurance".
wemay
Site Donor 2023
If your High Performance application calls for specs that ST Syn meets....why not? I see no reason why this brand wouldn't be serviceable.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted by wemay
If your High Performance application calls for specs that ST Syn meets....why not? I see no reason why this brand wouldn't be serviceable.
I still disagree here. For instance, my Corvette calls for a 5w30 dexos1 oil, so Supertech synthetic does meet that standard. But would you trust it to keep the direct injected LT1 engine as clean as Mobil 1 would, or Pennzoil Platinum? I plan on keeping this car forever, which means I'll be putting hundreds of thousands of miles on it. My best chance at doing that is having an oil with a 3.5 HTHS for starters, but also an oil with a low Noack value and low sulfated ash. That's why I've chosen Mobil 1 5w30 ESP Formula (and when that supply runs out I'll run their newest formulation, 5w30 ESP)
If your High Performance application calls for specs that ST Syn meets....why not? I see no reason why this brand wouldn't be serviceable.
I still disagree here. For instance, my Corvette calls for a 5w30 dexos1 oil, so Supertech synthetic does meet that standard. But would you trust it to keep the direct injected LT1 engine as clean as Mobil 1 would, or Pennzoil Platinum? I plan on keeping this car forever, which means I'll be putting hundreds of thousands of miles on it. My best chance at doing that is having an oil with a 3.5 HTHS for starters, but also an oil with a low Noack value and low sulfated ash. That's why I've chosen Mobil 1 5w30 ESP Formula (and when that supply runs out I'll run their newest formulation, 5w30 ESP)
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted by BLND1
Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Patman
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
SN+ and D1G2 what's the problem?
Because I still feel that other oils are going to be much better at keeping the engine clean in the long run, and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic. QSUD is only $4 more and Mobil 1 (as already mentioned) ends up being cheaper with rebates, so there really isn't a good reason (IMO) to use Supertech synthetic.
Feels... as good a metric to choose a motor oil as any, I suppose.
It looks like many people on this forum agree with me though. You get what you pay for, you can't expect superior performance in the long run from a bargain basement oil. It's not going to be using the best base oil, nor the most expensive add pack either. And you can't expect a company like Warren (or Citgo, or Amalie, or whoever is supplying all the Walmarts nationwide with this oil) to make an oil with the same level of quality as Exxon Mobil, SOPUS, Castrol, Valvoline, etc.
If you can show me someone that has gone 300,000 miles with Supertech in a hard driven direct injected turbo engine, I'll eat my words....
Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Patman
I'm not sure I would feel all that confident running Supertech in anything with a turbo, or anything DI for that matter. Under those circumstances I think I'd want something a little better with a low Noack, low sulfated ash and perhaps a higher HTHS too.
SN+ and D1G2 what's the problem?
Because I still feel that other oils are going to be much better at keeping the engine clean in the long run, and I also feel that for higher performance applications I would trust a name brand synthetic long before a bargain synthetic. QSUD is only $4 more and Mobil 1 (as already mentioned) ends up being cheaper with rebates, so there really isn't a good reason (IMO) to use Supertech synthetic.
Feels... as good a metric to choose a motor oil as any, I suppose.
It looks like many people on this forum agree with me though. You get what you pay for, you can't expect superior performance in the long run from a bargain basement oil. It's not going to be using the best base oil, nor the most expensive add pack either. And you can't expect a company like Warren (or Citgo, or Amalie, or whoever is supplying all the Walmarts nationwide with this oil) to make an oil with the same level of quality as Exxon Mobil, SOPUS, Castrol, Valvoline, etc.
If you can show me someone that has gone 300,000 miles with Supertech in a hard driven direct injected turbo engine, I'll eat my words....
wemay
Site Donor 2023
SuperTech Synthetic meets dexos1 Gen2 and SN Plus which we all know, is meant for direct injection. So yes, I believe it will keep your direct injected application clean and working well, well into the hundreds of thousands of miles with proper maintenance and other variables on your side of luck. It may not be as clean as the majors you mentioned but that was never my claim. I said if the oil meets the specs your vehicle calls for, it will be serviceable for as long as you keep the car. It is my opinion that people have an aversion to SuperTech because it is affiliated with Walmart which admittedly, denotes "cheap". But Warren Distribution is well respected and quality oil in my book.
Now, if you're looking for higher quality by using more stringent specs, ST Syn won't be for you.
Healthy debate though.
Now, if you're looking for higher quality by using more stringent specs, ST Syn won't be for you.
Healthy debate though.
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Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted by wemay
But Warren Distribution is well respected and quality oil in my book.
In the past we've been told that Walmarts in different areas of the country use different suppliers for their Supertech, so in one area it might be Warren but in others it could be Citgo or Amalie. Has this changed and it's 100% Warren now? And even if it is, do we trust it to remain that way?
And that brings up another good point, trust. A lot of what we do here is trusting the oil we've chosen, because we really won't find out if we chose right until many years later. Make the wrong choice and your engine could start burning oil sooner and have more engine deposits sooner. So for me, to spend the extra $$$ on quality oil and good filters is an exercise in trust, I'm trusting that the major brands are going to do a better job. Running an oil I don't trust is not a gamble I wish to take. It's not like you're saving a significant amount of money with Supertech.
But Warren Distribution is well respected and quality oil in my book.
In the past we've been told that Walmarts in different areas of the country use different suppliers for their Supertech, so in one area it might be Warren but in others it could be Citgo or Amalie. Has this changed and it's 100% Warren now? And even if it is, do we trust it to remain that way?
And that brings up another good point, trust. A lot of what we do here is trusting the oil we've chosen, because we really won't find out if we chose right until many years later. Make the wrong choice and your engine could start burning oil sooner and have more engine deposits sooner. So for me, to spend the extra $$$ on quality oil and good filters is an exercise in trust, I'm trusting that the major brands are going to do a better job. Running an oil I don't trust is not a gamble I wish to take. It's not like you're saving a significant amount of money with Supertech.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
It comes down to the individual's comfort level. If they're as comfortable using one oil with the appropriate certs as they are using another with the same certs, there's nothing wrong with saving $5, $2 or 50c.
I'd buy this oil and just add 1 quart of Delo HDEO for the extra add pack.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted by wemay
It comes down to the individual's comfort level. If they're as comfortable using one oil with the appropriate certs as they are using another with the same certs, there's nothing wrong with saving $5, $2 or 50c.
Let's look at it this way then. If you're right and it works for you, then you've saved about $5 per year (or not actually, as it's still cheaper to buy Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum with the typical rebates). If you're wrong, then it could cost you a lot more. If you're only going to keep your car for 100,000 miles, it probably won't matter either way, but I'm talking about those that want to have the best chance of putting on hundreds of thousands of miles and still have their engine running as good as it did when new (or as close to it as possible)
It comes down to the individual's comfort level. If they're as comfortable using one oil with the appropriate certs as they are using another with the same certs, there's nothing wrong with saving $5, $2 or 50c.
Let's look at it this way then. If you're right and it works for you, then you've saved about $5 per year (or not actually, as it's still cheaper to buy Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum with the typical rebates). If you're wrong, then it could cost you a lot more. If you're only going to keep your car for 100,000 miles, it probably won't matter either way, but I'm talking about those that want to have the best chance of putting on hundreds of thousands of miles and still have their engine running as good as it did when new (or as close to it as possible)
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Originally Posted by dubber09
Are you doing all 3-4 cars' oil changes at the same time? They'd be staggered, no?
If you do get a 5 gal oil bucket and get a half bucket left overs - just pour that into 2 or 3 one-gal jugs and let empty bucket go. All you need is 2-3 empty 1-gallon jugs to cover you.
No math involved ... LOL
edit: better off - save 5 one-gallon jugs, pour oil from the bucket into them, use jugs to do oil changes, dump old oil into the bucket and take it to recycling when full.
^^This is EXACTLY what I do lol
Are you doing all 3-4 cars' oil changes at the same time? They'd be staggered, no?
If you do get a 5 gal oil bucket and get a half bucket left overs - just pour that into 2 or 3 one-gal jugs and let empty bucket go. All you need is 2-3 empty 1-gallon jugs to cover you.
No math involved ... LOL
edit: better off - save 5 one-gallon jugs, pour oil from the bucket into them, use jugs to do oil changes, dump old oil into the bucket and take it to recycling when full.
^^This is EXACTLY what I do lol
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by bchannell
Dexos # here comes up manufactured by WPP for full syn.
And Warren is actually generous with info about their oils, a link to a 5W30 synth PDS with Noack loss, CCS viscosity, and other juicy tidbits is included below.
I think there's a good chance this would reflect the results for ST 5W30 synth given that the oils have the same d1G2 license # (also shared with amazonbasics 5W30 synth), but I'm sure not offering a guarantee on that.
https://mag1.com/products/passenger...il/mag-1-full-synthetic-5w-30-motor-oil/
.... but no mention it reduces deposit formation. None of the Warren-label oils mention it.
Why?..... because it doesn't. Otherwise it would list it on the jug, as Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil-1 and Pennzoil do (5w30)
You get what you pay for and if you're driving TGDIs/GDIs, you may want to rethink your purchase of it.
I found this nice summary of what's "new" in d1G2, which all the oils discussed meet...
"GM has developed four new engine tests for this updated specification:
New General Motors Oxidation & Deposit Test (GMOD) verifies the improved oxidation and deposit control characteristics.
New Stochastic Pre-ignition Test verifies the added protection for turbocharged engines and pre-ignition concerns.
New Turbocharger Deposit Test verifies the added protection for turbocharged engines and minimizes deposit formation, which ensures optimal performance during engine life.
New Aeration Test (bubble control) ensures the air bubbles in the oil dissipate quickly to improve oil performance."
I'll take the spec over the advertising.
I should probably add here that I haven't purchased any ST oils because I can get "brand name" cheaper with rebates....
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by bchannell
Dexos # here comes up manufactured by WPP for full syn.
And Warren is actually generous with info about their oils, a link to a 5W30 synth PDS with Noack loss, CCS viscosity, and other juicy tidbits is included below.
I think there's a good chance this would reflect the results for ST 5W30 synth given that the oils have the same d1G2 license # (also shared with amazonbasics 5W30 synth), but I'm sure not offering a guarantee on that.
https://mag1.com/products/passenger...il/mag-1-full-synthetic-5w-30-motor-oil/
.... but no mention it reduces deposit formation. None of the Warren-label oils mention it.
Why?..... because it doesn't. Otherwise it would list it on the jug, as Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil-1 and Pennzoil do (5w30)
You get what you pay for and if you're driving TGDIs/GDIs, you may want to rethink your purchase of it.
I found this nice summary of what's "new" in d1G2, which all the oils discussed meet...
"GM has developed four new engine tests for this updated specification:
New General Motors Oxidation & Deposit Test (GMOD) verifies the improved oxidation and deposit control characteristics.
New Stochastic Pre-ignition Test verifies the added protection for turbocharged engines and pre-ignition concerns.
New Turbocharger Deposit Test verifies the added protection for turbocharged engines and minimizes deposit formation, which ensures optimal performance during engine life.
New Aeration Test (bubble control) ensures the air bubbles in the oil dissipate quickly to improve oil performance."
I'll take the spec over the advertising.
I should probably add here that I haven't purchased any ST oils because I can get "brand name" cheaper with rebates....
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