I will never use those two words contained within quotes ever again on this forum.
Supertech and other value point oils
- Thread starter CapitalTruck
- Start date
Aroma refers to the smells derived directly from the base stocks, while bouquet refers to the smells that develop during the oil's refinement and aging process. I find my Kirkland oil to have a nice leathery bouquet with a hint of anise. Not that my engines care.
I’d have to disagree with this statement. I’ve seen cleanliness differences in 5k mile oci’s nevermind 20k miles. Like I mentioned earlier I will be posting results of this by year end when the clean up is complete. The fact that ESP is cleaning up what cheaper oil left behind in the same exact driving conditions at the same exact intervals says something. Not all oils are the same despite approvals.
100% agree-I’ll never buy a car used as a rental.
I've used Super Tech HMFS 5W-30 for years. I have noticed that it has a petroleum smell which reminds me I'm adding oil (not water) to the crank case LOL. I prefer oil having a smell.
I run the "cheap" supertech all year round. Works fine for me.
After 4 decades of car ownership I've come to the conclusion that oil brand doesn't matter, only the spec the oil meets matters.
So I try to use the lowest priced oil that meets the specification.
With SuperTech, you get the added bonus that it meets the Dexos 1 Gen 3 spec, and it has a strong additive package with generous amounts of phosphorous / zinc anti-wear additives, and calcium (detergent) additives.
The only thing I'm not sure about with Super Tech High Mileage Full Synthetic is whether it treats the oil seals to help prevent oil leaks.
It doesn't explicitly say that on the container. Other oils like Quaker state and Pennzoil explicitly say that it treats the oil seals right on the container.
To add to this. Even within group 3 base stocks there’s different quality/performance. Not to mention other ingredients like viscosity modifiers. IMO the more severe the service the more quality base stocks/ingredients matter.
Last edited:
Most ALL VM don't stand up to fuel dilution/ PB HC oxidation at all. Lower cost oils may or may not use good VM.
I came into these forums in May of 2002, the same day Bob Winters established it. I don' recall a ban talk on the subject of "Best Oils". Of course, I fully understand there really is NO ONE Best Oil out there.
It wasn’t under Bob it was when Tony was running the site. I’m not exactly sure of the date. 2008ish??
Why did you have to rejoin? I think I started in 2001. But the dates got goobered
My redline and HPL oils do much better with oxidation and TBN numbers once you go past 8k miles.
And oxidation numbers matter for me. I have to have good fresh coolant and good oil. My water pump is internal and one side is washed in coolant and the other is washed in engine oil. I have to keep it happy, otherwise it lets me know I need to change the water pump by puking coolant into oil.
Patman
Staff member
This version of the forum came about in May 2002, I joined on that first day actually and Bob asked me to join the staff almost immediately. Prior to that I was on Bob’s original website where he had a chat portion that was set up much like an old newsgroup format. I believe that I had found that in 2001. I don’t think Tony took over this site until sometime after 2005
There are 2 schools of thought - on what is best for the long term health of an engine.
[1] Some people prefer 5k mile / 6 month (whichever comes first) OCI with any Dexos 1 Gen 3 Group III full synthetic oil.
[2] Other's prefer extended oil changes with a Group V Ester based oil like HPL or Redline or a Group IV PAO based oil such as Amsoil.
Both ways may have the same end result after 300,000 miles. Both ideas above are valid paths. Each of us can choose the one that is right for our situation.
One other thing which I think needs more emphasis is using a high mileage oil that has strong seal swellers to prevent oil leaks over the long term. Oil leaks can be very expensive to fix, especially on Toyotas where some require the whole engine to be removed from the car to fix due to the tight packing under the hood of all the components.
So, I think engine internal cleanliness and treating seals are 2 criteria most important to me.
Perhaps doing 4 OCI with Valvoline Resore & Protect, followed by using an oil such as Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic could be a possible strategy for myself when I buy my next used car.
So, I think engine internal cleanliness and treating seals are 2 criteria most important to me.
Perhaps doing 4 OCI with Valvoline Resore & Protect, followed by using an oil such as Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic could be a possible strategy for myself when I buy my next used car.
Ehh. I mean I get that but today is a very different world technologically.
Im looking at getting Honda 1.5T that thing pisses fuel in the engine all day long, I probably wont be using expensive exotic oil if I have to change it often.
My 3.5 Cyclone? It wears like granite and has no fuel contamination issues, I have very long cold and miserable weather here up north. I will use fancy extended drain interval oil on it to avoid the misery.
Its cold here and I take lots of short trips so if I have honda 1.5 I may be changing the oil every 3-4k miles.
I agree this works for most. But replace any Dexos 1 Gen 3 synthetic with R&P in method [1] for 99% coverage. Method [2] covers everything including severe service but not fuel dilutors.
Yes, I agree. I think Valvoline Restore & Protect at 5k mile / 6 month OCI (whichever comes first) from 0 miles to 300,000 miles, and it might be the winner of all other strategies. You would get the cleanest engine with likely not even a drop of oil burning. Buying it at Walmart and using the $5 rebate per 5 quart container, and it might also be one of the least expensive oil change strategies.
Just want to share the 8k miles OCI with cheapest approved 508/509 Oil at 115k miles. No varnish so far. The first 60k miles was Toyota Oil, 10k miles OCI. Afterwards, mainly Mannol 7722 5-8k miles OCI.
I think Mobil 1 ESP X2 also has VW approval. VRP is too expensive to be shipped to Europe. Fortunately, I do not need it for this Prius gen 3 or Corolla hybrid engine.
I think Mobil 1 ESP X2 also has VW approval. VRP is too expensive to be shipped to Europe. Fortunately, I do not need it for this Prius gen 3 or Corolla hybrid engine.
Similar threads
