Supertech and other value point oils

There's another thread about car rental oil changes

I rented a Toyota Camry, turbo engine, for a cross country trip. 48,000 miles on the odometer and 12k miles since its last oil change. I was sorely tempted to get an oil change, but resisted, and it survived. I understand the feeling. Also, will never buy a car used as a rental for this reason.
 
R&P is a game changer.

I’ve decided to go Amsoil SS in my Jeep. Oil temps off roading are approaching 250 degrees.

Do you think that is too much for even ESP to handle?
I used to tour summers two-up on a R50/5 500cc air cooled BMW motorcycle. My sump temperature was 285 degrees F on the interstate. Changed every 5000 miles the bike was running like new @ 130,000 when I sold it. Mobil 1 15W-50 always. 250 is nothing for a good synthetic oil.
 
Classic. Great engine and supercharger.
I had a 97 Grand Prix GTP for a year and I changed the pulley on the blower to make more boost and replaced the restrictive factory air box with a bigger cone filter. With just those two changes it ran the quarter mile in 13.78 seconds at 101 mph. That was quicker than a stock 5.0 Mustang of that era (my 87 Mustang GT went 14.7 bone stock at 95 mph)
 
I used to tour summers two-up on a R50/5 500cc air cooled BMW motorcycle. My sump temperature was 285 degrees F on the interstate. Changed every 5000 miles the bike was running like new @ 130,000 when I sold it. Mobil 1 15W-50 always. 250 is nothing for a good synthetic oil.
That sounds like fun touring!! Any pics of it?
 
That sounds like fun touring!! Any pics of it?
I have a pic handy of the old bike on the wall…..
IMG_9256.webp
 
I knew people were sniffing cvt fluid and fuel cleaning bottles with PEA, but are we on to oil now or has this been a trend i didn't get the invitation to? 🤣
I think OP was given bad instruction. The proper ingestion prcedure for motor oil is actually to wet the dip stick, then hold the dipstick on the catalytic converter to smoke the oil. You then inhale the vapours. People who grew up in the 80's and 90's may recognize this as being similar to doing blades.
 
It is about Bang for your Bucks. That is why I prefer cheapest certified DexosD, or VW 508/509 0w-20 oil for my hybrid. The price difference from expensive brands, I believe is just Moneterizing strategy, that people willing to pay.

VW 508/509 spec PAO Ravenol VSE or Amsoil costs €70+, value brands like Mannol 7722, Adinnol, Eurolube, Fuchs or Total Ineo for ~35€. Mobil1 ESP X2 or Shell Ultra costs ~50€.

My hypothesis is 1/2 price same spec Oil, and do 5-10k miles OCI is better than 10-20k miles OCI with more expensive oil.

I am willing to pay a bit for something like Valvoline RP, instead of stupid additives or unnecessary flush engine products if I have engine with observable varnish.
 
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It is about Bang for your Bucks. That is why I prefer cheapest certified DexosD, or VW 508/509 0w-20 oil for my hybrid. The price difference from expensive brands, I believe is just Moneterizing strategy, that people willing to pay.

VW 508/509 spec PAO Ravenol VSE or Amsoil costs €70+, value brands like Mannol 7722, Adinnol, Eurolube, Fuchs or Total Ineo for ~35€. Mobil1 ESP X2 or Shell Ultra costs ~50€.

My hypothesis is 1/2 price same spec Oil, and do 5-10k miles OCI is better than 10-20k miles OCI with more expensive oil.

I am willing to pay a bit for something like Valvoline RP, instead of stupid additives or unnecessary flush engine products if I have engine with observable varnish.
Just curious, if you're in Florida, why are you quoting prices in euros?
 
My hypothesis is 1/2 price same spec Oil, and do 5-10k miles OCI is better than 10-20k miles OCI with more expensive oil.

Not all engines can handle the cheapest oil and still stay clean, even with shorter intervals. Many people are finding this out when they switch over to VRP and find that it’s reduced the oil consumption of the engine.

Many of us on here don’t share your hypothesis and would rather do 10k intervals with a higher quality oil instead of 5k with the cheaper stuff.
 
Not all engines can handle the cheapest oil and still stay clean, even with shorter intervals. Many people are finding this out when they switch over to VRP and find that it’s reduced the oil consumption of the engine.

Many of us on here don’t share your hypothesis and would rather do 10k intervals with a higher quality oil instead of 5k with the cheaper stuff.

Clearly, there are some engines that are prone to sticking rings, even when proper maintenance is performed. And VRP is helping clean up at least some of these engines. That oil is designed for this sort of thing. But how does this relate to value point oils? Would a Hyundai Theta engine gum up the rings with Supertech, but not with Penzoil/QS Ultimate? Is there any oil on the market that could keep the Theta's piston rings clean?
 
Clearly, there are some engines that are prone to sticking rings, even when proper maintenance is performed. And VRP is helping clean up at least some of these engines. That oil is designed for this sort of thing. But how does this relate to value point oils? Would a Hyundai Theta engine gum up the rings with Supertech, but not with Penzoil/QS Ultimate? Is there any oil on the market that could keep the Theta's piston rings clean?
I believe you have a much better chance of having cleaner rings on engines like this if you’re using Amsoil or HPL or M1 ESP as opposed to using Kirkland/Supertech.

I know a lot of people (myself included) try to find lots of different ways to save money but more and more I’m thinking that the budget oils aren’t really the best place for doing that. It really doesn’t cost that much more to be using a higher quality oil, and in many cases it’s the same cost because you can safely go longer intervals.
 
Clearly, there are some engines that are prone to sticking rings, even when proper maintenance is performed. And VRP is helping clean up at least some of these engines. That oil is designed for this sort of thing. But how does this relate to value point oils? Would a Hyundai Theta engine gum up the rings with Supertech, but not with Penzoil/QS Ultimate? Is there any oil on the market that could keep the Theta's piston rings clean?
Amsoil specifically tests for this at 3X+ test intervals
 
I believe you have a much better chance of having cleaner rings on engines like this if you’re using Amsoil or HPL or M1 ESP as opposed to using Kirkland/Supertech.

I know a lot of people (myself included) try to find lots of different ways to save money but more and more I’m thinking that the budget oils aren’t really the best place for doing that. It really doesn’t cost that much more to be using a higher quality oil, and in many cases it’s the same cost because you can safely go longer intervals.

I can appreciate that an oil like Amsoil SS is "better" than kirkland/supertech, but unless running extended drain intervals, I'm not convinced it will protect or clean better (engines with known to stick rings, excluded) in an engine being properly maintained. And if the person is like a lot of us here, changing in 5k intervals, that's an even better use case for the budget oils.
 
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What continually gets lost in the weeds (and so the discussions go) are that not all engines are created equal, not all oils are created equal, not all environments are equal, not all drive cycles are equal, etc, ad nauseam. The idea there's one "best oil" is ridiculous.

What can be offered on this forum are the opinions of those having years of personal experience, and many having backgrounds/technical expertise supporting those opinions. At the end of the day, the oil we use, the food we eat, etc, is a personal choice based on data we've accumulated from many sources, as well as availability and affordability.

I choose not to eat caviar, and am happy eating a cheap can of sardines on occasion (let the judgements begin). I've run mostly Amsoil products in my cars and motorcycles since 1976. Since finding this forum, I've drunken the HPL Kool-Aid and ordered up a bunch (by my standards, certainly not many on this forum). Amsoil makes great products, but there are aspects other than the quality of products which appeal to my switching to HPL.
 
Compared to group II Oil, Mobil1 ESP or Ravenol PAO are significantly better, but not with group III oil. There is a good reason why Castrol won in US court that labeling Full synthetic on its group III is legit.
For a 20k miles or shorter interval, I don't think we will observe a significant difference between Kirkland, Supertech, Pennzoil, Mobil1 ESP, or Amsoil Signature. Especially, if all of them are rated 20k miles oil.
So far, we only claim mainly in opinion. A standardized Lab test or certification is the only thing matters to science.
We save money by choosing a good engine and maintaining it properly. But, for our own satisfaction, we can always spend as much as we want, just like for anything in life.
 
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The idea there's one "best oil" is ridiculous.
As I sit here thinking, I came to this forum exactly because I was looking for the "best oil" for my Audi, which was under warranty. It's been a steep learning curve for me, which led to the statement above.

I've learned about the Magnuson-Moss Act, VOAs and UOAs, centistokes and centipoise, viscosity (MRV viscosity :unsure: ), etc. It's been a lot of fun.

I can't lose patience or judge others looking for the same thing I was when I found this forum. What I feel confident in now saying is "The idea there's one "best oil" is ridiculous".
 
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