Suitable10,000 OCI choice for 2016 Lexus ES-350 (V6)

It looks like it has a lot of yellow garnish from long OCI
The oil turns yellow/goldish, the shiny part between the 2 vvt sprockets is where ive wiped it. Only some slight varnis builds op on the Valvetronic springs, all bmws have this and its not solvable with shorter ocis but wont harm the engine just like the yellowish look.

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This is the same engine in a different vehicle at 120k miles.
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This is what i call sludge.
 
TGMO 0w20 is also a good choice. Lots of Moly and Boron... that you would see in Redline High-Performance and Amsoil Signature Series.

 
TGMO 0w20 is also a good choice. Lots of Moly and Boron... that you would see in Redline High-Performance and Amsoil Signature Series.

13% noack 😂😂😂😂😂

🚮
 
Everything in those pictures are lightly yellow varnish, maybe you have better pictures
All n52 engines have the carbon build op on the valvetronic springs. Probably because the oil does not really gets on them.
 

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I would strongly encourage you, and everyone here to watch this video.
TL;DR - 10K mile OCI will destroy your engine. 5K is recommended, despite what the manual says.

There's a whole thread discussing that video and others:
 
That 3.5 may also hold a LOT of oil. Mine holds like 6 or 6.5 qts. BUT, does it also have a chain? Chains can be a little harder on oil. If I was going to stretch the oci much, I would use 5-30 instead of a 20 weight. I think the oem oci is 7500.
 
How long, or more important, how many miles will you keep it? I don't imagine any engine on 10K oil changes will be free of sludge at 200K or last to 300K.
Yeah I agree here, 5k if you want to keep it long term, why risk it for something so cheap and easy? Car Care Nut on YouTube has seen plenty of Toyota/Lexus engines start burning ridiculous amounts of oil from 10k oil changes, even when the UOA says it should have been fine.

On the other hand, a regular at my shop has near 500,000 miles on his Tacoma and he changes his oil every 3500 miles like clockwork, along with every other maintenance item recommended. Engine runs like it's brand new.
 
Spend some time perusing the UOAs on this site which is a valuable tool in choosing an oil that holds up Hint. You are asking what oil with out mentioning your operating conditions, The oil and filter you are using will do the job .
Be careful the way you word this… perusing UOAs, especially between engine types, isn’t valid unless you’re only considering what a UOA is truly designed for: viscosity, TBN/TAN, flash point, and the presence of dirt or coolant ingress.

Past that point, you’re actually safer just picking an oil that meets the specs for your engine rather than chasing lower wear numbers on UOAs from somebody else’s engine. Now, if you’ve got hundreds of samples & know mileage & oil type, then you can get a little better idea that way. But not from a single or even 3-5 UOA. Not with any certainty, at least.
 
Ahhh another extended OCI thread with one side claiming anything over 5k miles will destroy your engine with zero proof of this claim and then you have the rest of the world running the factory recommended 7500-10k OCIs and having zero oil related failures with happy high mileage engines
 
IMHO, changing your current oil and filter choices would be pointless. Both the 5K or 10K OCI's on your current Kirkland oil would likely satisfy your car's engine. Same with the XG filter. Both are fine choices. In fact, this oil and filter combo is my preferred choice here in Alaska.

If you're terribly concerned about extending your Kirkland oil out to 10K, accomplish UOA's at the 5K or 7.5K and the 10K points. Blackstone will tell you at the 5K or 7.5K oil analysis if that current UOA will likely make it to 10K -- if you ask up front. The 10K UOA will confirm its extended usefulness, based on your recent driving habits.

Accomplish some UOA's! Evaluate from there. Good luck.
 
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