Suitable10,000 OCI choice for 2016 Lexus ES-350 (V6)

100,000 miles. OCI at 7k miles or 10k mile OCI. Difference in minimal in terms of time spent over 6.6 years and money ($100, maybe $120, or $18 per year). Do what you want, but if you go with 10k mile OCI I'd change the filter at 5k miles.
I run my 20k rated filters for 20k or 1 year. for The OP a 20k filter changed 1 time Year. I would run whatever the factory recommended regular oil change is 7500 or 10k whichever the manual states. This is not extended changes, these are factory recommendations.
 
Then you go on with your 20k mile filter bad seff. I'm sure the warranty department of many new cars that call for 7500 oil and filter changes have a different opinion.
Honda called for 20,000 mi filter changes and that's what the Ultra he is using is rated for. GM calls for using the OLM which can be well over 10,000 mi.

I do own one car thsf calls for 7500 mi OCI but it's 20+ years old and calls for 15,000 mi oil filter changes.
 
I've been using Costco Kirkland 0W-20 Full Synthetic and Fram Ultra at 5K OCI on my 2016 Lexus ES-350 with 70K mi. Planning to keep this car a long time but want to stretch out oil changes to 10K to save on time (money savings is a bonus). Haven't done any UOA on this car so hoping for some guidance on oil choices.
I've been using Costco Kirkland 0W-20 Full Synthetic and Fram Ultra at 5K OCI on my 2016 Lexus ES-350 with 70K mi. Planning to keep this car a long time but want to stretch out oil changes to 10K to save on time (money savings is a bonus). Haven't done any UOA on this car so hoping for some guidance on oil choices.
Different strokes. Severe service oci is 5,000. I think it's all severe service so your 5,000 oci was good. Try a thicker 0w-20 like m1 AFE or Pennzoil Ultra. Goal is to run the thinnest oil that runs smoothly and quietly in your car. My 17 Camry runs smoothly and quietly on 0w-20 m1 AFE which is an 8.8 vis. Ultra is also an 8.8 vis. I try to run what my engine seems to "like". Jmo ymmv
 
I have this same exact engine in my car, and same exact year. And it’s funny, I asked the same exact question a month ago.

Here’s what I got for answers. There are plenty of people doing 10,000 miles in these thing with ease. With UOA to back it up. You could run almost any synthetic and filter in this thing and it’d probably be fine.

I went with Mobil1 EP 0W20 and a Fram ultra filter. Trying out my first 10,000 mile oil change. We’ll see how it goes, its my first, could be my last...I’m a 5,000 mile type of guy. Always have been, but I figured...hey, when in Rome...
 
I have this same exact engine in my car, and same exact year. And it’s funny, I asked the same exact question a month ago.

Here’s what I got for answers. There are plenty of people doing 10,000 miles in these thing with ease. With UOA to back it up. You could run almost any synthetic and filter in this thing and it’d probably be fine.

I went with Mobil1 EP 0W20 and a Fram ultra filter. Trying out my first 10,000 mile oil change. We’ll see how it goes, its my first, could be my last...I’m a 5,000 mile type of guy. Always have been, but I figured...hey, when in Rome...
I bet you learn that nothing bad happens.
 
Guaranteed for what? Sure the engine won't blow up at 20K so what are they guaranteeing? Sounds more like a marketing gimmick.
It doesn't have to be a mystery. Out of all the oil warranties I think theirs is the clearest and most liberal:

 
So really just a marketing gimmick?
If that's the way you wish to look at it, which considering your earlier posts is likely. But to me a "marketing gimmick" is something that highlights or warranties an aspect of a product that is functionally irrelevant or unconnected to the usage. That's not the case here since ExxonMobil does in fact warranty the performance of their product while being used for the purpose for which it is intended.

I guess you could call the new-car warranties on my Toyotas and Honda a gimmick in that I never had a claim on any of them either.
 
Well, you yourself just said an oil-related failure simply does not happen. So what are they warrantying? A little different than new-car warranties that cover most everything on the car. Kinda like an alarm company guarantying that no space aliens will ever break into your house with our more expensive premium monitoring plan.
 
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I suspect that the number of people on here that have run a vehicle to 300,000 miles is small. Very small. My son drives my old 2005 Tundra and at 240,000 miles it's had every brand of oil and changes every 10,000 miles while I had it and probably more random in the 10+ years he's had it.
It has no issues.
 
All this guessing game and looking at other people UOA means nothing. ES350 from 2010 is not GDI, so it should be easy on oil. It all depends if car is taking a lot of short trips and/or idles a lot in traffic. The 10K miles would be safe under mostly highway miles longer drives. Why not spend $30 and get oil tested once to see how it behaves in your particular case, otherwise you will waste more time reading different opinions and looking at other UOA that will not be representative of your specific conditions/engine.
 
All this guessing game and looking at other people UOA means nothing. ES350 from 2010 is not GDI, so it should be easy on oil. It all depends if car is taking a lot of short trips and/or idles a lot in traffic. The 10K miles would be safe under mostly highway miles longer drives. Why not spend $30 and get oil tested once to see how it behaves in your particular case, otherwise you will waste more time reading different opinions and looking at other UOA that will not be representative of your specific conditions/engine.
I get what you’re saying, but saying looking at other UOA’s means nothing? I disagree with that. Some people that post their UOA tell you the type of driving they do. you can draw comparisons there. The UOA’s themselves compare universal averages to your very own results. More comparisons. Pretty important when talking about the same engine/car.

And then there is the person’s own actual report. Whatever their driving condition is, it will not be exactly the same as their next report. Similar? Sure. But the same? No. Weather. Traffic. Job change. Wife began using the car. All different scenarios. To truly gauge it you’d probably have to test it every single darn time. And for what? Each time should be different. Meanwhile you can scan through dozens of other peoples UOA’s and draw a conclusion.

I’ve never gotten a analysis. I’d like, to. I plan to, but just more for fun. I imagine it would read a whole lot like others. And I imagine it would be different every time I had one. IMO.
 
Some people that post their UOA tell you the type of driving they do.
They might briefly describe it, trying to match to your driving is a stretch. Is climate same, florida vs Minnesota and etc. you also have to find reports that match your engine. You can spend hours and hours looking for things and never be sure, but for $30 you can get an answer.

Yes, if you have major shift in your driving patterns, would not hurt to re-do the analysis. If its too much hassle, and you want something easy, you can stick with 5k/6month as its stated in your owner manual.
 
I run my bmw at 15k ocis with penzoil platnium. Now at 240k.

Engine looks like this inside.
 

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