stripped 3/8 diff drain plug, how to extract?

[apollo18]

hey all found out the 3/8 drain plug for my rear diff is stripped/rounded off. it looked pretty rusty too

any ideas how to get it out?

i did some reading and maybe this harbor freight pipe extractor would work?

i attached a pic of what i mean by the 3/8 plug (just a google non rounded pic) and also what i saw at harbor for extracting

ty!

 

[emmett442]

Weld a nut to it and turn it out with a hex wrench or socket

 

[bullwinkle]

Can you get a big pair of Vise-Grips on it?

 

[BC1]

Does it look just like the picture? If so and no welding skills like recommended above, smack it a few times with a hammer and use a pipe wrench on it.

 

[We're Metals]

I've actually had luck using a Chisel to get similar bolts to move. Just dont miss with a hammer blow haha.

Otherwise, I would weld a nut on. Muffler shops do this kind of stuff super cheap.

Or leave it?

 

[bullwinkle]

hey all found out the 3/8 drain plug for my rear diff is stripped/rounded off. it looked pretty rusty too

any ideas how to get it out?

i did some reading and maybe this harbor freight pipe extractor would work?

i attached a pic of what i mean by the 3/8 plug (just a google non rounded pic) and also what i saw at harbor for extracting

ty!

View attachment 254785

View attachment 254786

I had this happen on my old C3500 Sierra-I had a local welder weld an EGR bung on the cover, used that to check & add gear oil.

 

[spasm3]

Weld a nut to it and turn it out with a hex wrench or socket

It looks perfect for this. Quick and easy. The heat from the weld usually helps free up the corrosion bond.

Even if you go to an indy shop, this should not be expensive.

I would have the replacement in hand when you take it in.

Edit , see if you can find and external hex head replacement vs the internal allen head.

I replaced my mazda oil drain plug with an external vs the allen so it would never be an issue.

 

[apollo18]

i updated a better pic of it here

 

[D60]

You can also get square screw extractors. You might have luck driving one in, but I'd almost want a way to have an impact wrench on the other end.

edit: make that a hex extractor based upon the pic. You can try Sock-It-Out.

 

[D60]

Astro also makes hex bits with a tiny eccentric on the end. The idea is the eccentric rotates off-center from the main body and it binds up in the socket head.

Although I've never had it work. I keep hoping because I really like the concept.

 

[burbguy82]

Weld a nut to it and turn it out with a hex wrench or socket

+1

Provided you can weld. I just had to do this on my Lexus front diff.

You can try heat and a chisel.

Edit: That pipe extractor will unlikely work, the allen key hole is 1.) not likely the right size, 2.) not deep enough to grab the requisite material to do the job.

 

[Rand]

+1

Provided you can weld. I just had to do this on my Lexus front diff.

You can try heat and a chisel.

if you cant weld, a muffler shop would probably do it for near nothing.

 

[Marrk]

View attachment 254786

I'm no expert, but this looks iffy to me.

1) Give it a good soak with penetrant. Not WD-40. Maybe something like PB B'laster.

2) Grab it with whatever you got, maybe vice grips, like Señor Bullwinkle said above, and turn.

3) There's a guy on YouTube. His name is Gear Bryan. He often recommends taking a socket that is slightly too large and smacking it into the bolt with a small sledge hammer (4 lbs. maybe?). Then, you can turn it. Of course, you would need to have a replacement bolt and hope that you don't damage the threads on the diff.

4) I would not use a welder, or any kind of a flame, under a car. Why? Because I'm a fraidy cat and don't want be blown to Kingdom Come.

Good luck.

 

[D60]

If you want the Q&D approach, clean out the head as much as possible. Hit it with any torch you have, incl just a small LP or MappPro. Find a Torx that'll almost fit then drive it in with a BFH.

Then use an impact. Push in HARD and use very quick trigger blips. If the Torx starts to spin rather than bite, stop, drive it in more if possible, and repeat.

I've done this successfully, but there are several variables and YMMV. It uses common tools and you can get a plumbing torch head and LP canister CHEAP. MappPro (2008+) only burns a couple hundred degrees above LP

 

[AdmiralYoda]

Kroil or PB Blaster. A number of applications and wait a few days then put some vice grips on it. Or hit it with heat like a small torch and use vice grips.

 

[Astro14]

Penetrant
Heat
Pipe wrench

There appears to be enough “meat” on the outside of the bolt head to get a grip with a pipe wrench. The harder you turn a pipe wrench, the more the teeth dig in. I keep a small pipe wrench in my shop toolbox for that purpose.

I don’t see anything that you can insert into that buggered up hex hole actually working, it’ll just slip and round out that hole. I would work on it from the outside - welding would be great - but I bet that pipe wrench would wok, too.

Get a new plug and gasket before you start.

 

[dfarr67]

I just took mine to the local dealer- for a full service, no issues and a new plug.

 

[Marrk]

These bad boys might give you some leverage on that bolt head.

 

[KrisZ]

This doesn't look bad at all.
I second the pipe wrench. If there is no space, sacrifice an allen socket that's a bit larger and hammer it in.

 

[Astro14]

These bad boys might give you some leverage on that bolt head.

Honestly - I’ve got pliers nearly that size - and the pipe wrench gives a much stronger grip. Pliers rely on the grip strength of your hand to bite into the work - but a pipe wrench uses the leverage on the handle, and the slight pivoting of the head, to bite into the work far harder than you ever could with a pair of pliers. Pliers scratch the surface. A pipe wrench digs in.