stage 3 NSRT-4 3000 mile interval mobil 1 5w,30

[7055]

2004 Dodge Neon SRT-4
50,000 miles on car
3,000 miles on oil
6.5 qt sump and some oil mods and stuff.
Mostly city
KS so every kind of weather you can imagine. freezing to hot.

 

[tig1]

By the numbers it looks good. I would run this oil for 7-10,000 miles. I've run M1 oils for 10,000 miles OCIs for 31 years and have great results.

 

[7055]

Nice, seems awfully far for mostly city though.

 

[7055]

I think I ran this sample without an air cleaner a few times because I thought the intake was collapsing in. Wonder if that increases the silicon

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: 7055
I think I ran this sample without an air cleaner a few times because I thought the intake was collapsing in. Wonder if that increases the silicon


May have. If 10,000 miles is too far for you 7000 will work great. I noticed your bearing wear is very good compared to the averages.

 

[Nederlander75]

Mobil 1 is horrible oil. However, you got a great run out of it.

 

[7055]

Pretty general statement.

 

[Gary Allan]

It was probably said in jest.

I'd probably figure this as a longer OCI than the odometer indicated with all the urban driving.

The silicon numbers may have been effected by the few runs with the air filter off/out, but it's not showing anything much in the usual suspects (aluminum, chromium, etc.).


You're at 6months now. Since you did your last in Nov., I'd say that you do not require a Spring/Fall solstice time of year to change oil like many of the four season persuasion do.

I'd advance it a month at a clip and see where it starts showing some stress/fatigue.

 

[Brettasaurus]

I ran 5W/30 M1 or RP in my Srt-4 but this was in the pre-Bitog days. I had an big-wheel stock turbo and ported exhaust manifold with lots of other goodies. Even with the S3 the Srt-4 is a lot easier on oil than the Speed3. Looks like the 2.4 is holding up well. I would recommend M1 0W/40 or GC since you have no warranty concerns, but that is just me.

 

[7055]

I've actually heard 0w 40 has the best additives in it and as a result is the best oil for our cars. Not sure what those additives would be. What kind of oil is GC?

 

[ThirdeYe]

GC = Castrol Syntec 0W-30 a.k.a. German Castrol. It's a Group IV full synthetic.

 

[Gary Allan]

What issues are you guys seeing that makes what he's doing "unright"??

 

[09rexwagon]

Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
GC = Castrol Syntec 0W-30 a.k.a. German Castrol. It's a Group IV full synthetic.
GC is 100% group 4?

 

[Gary Allan]

I thought it was a Group V. It's been on the back burner for so long.

 

[ThirdeYe]

Originally Posted By: 09rexwagon
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
GC = Castrol Syntec 0W-30 a.k.a. German Castrol. It's a Group IV full synthetic.
GC is 100% group 4?


I don't know about 100%, but I was led to believe it was a group IV oil... unless I remembered wrong?

 

[Nederlander75]

It was in jest. I wouldnt change a thing. You have a very good UOA. You could sinche things down a couple PPM, but at what cost?

 

[Brettasaurus]

Originally Posted By: 7055
I've actually heard 0w 40 has the best additives in it and as a result is the best oil for our cars. Not sure what those additives would be. What kind of oil is GC?


It is just a much better oil than M1 5W/30 IMHO. The 0W/40 is likely made from better base stocks, has a HT/HS of 3.9 versus 3.09-3.1 for 5W/30 and has loads more ZDDP than the 5W/30. 0W/30 Euro Castrol Syntec is very good also. Another oil you could try would be Redline 5-10W/30. RL has tons of ZDDP and moly, both great anti-wear additives and is made from grp. IV and V base oils. YOur UOA looks good to me but if you looks for specials and rebates then you could grab one of the above mentioned oils for a good price. I would highly recommend doing so. M1 0W/40 can even be purchased at Wal-Mart for $6.49 a qt here locally. Autozone sometimes has a 5 qt of Syntec and K&N filter for $25-29, and that is a great oil filter for the Srt-4.

 

[TurboLuver]

Looks good to me, I wonder why we don't have the high Iron issue when using M1 in our engine that a lot of people see?

Here is my last run on M1 0W-40 for comparison.

 

[Brettasaurus]

Looks good to me, I wonder why we don't have the high Iron issue when using M1 in our engine that a lot of people see?
Here is my last run on M1 0W-40 for comparison.

The M1 0W/40 is a great oil. I don't know why you don't seem to see the iron like you do in the other M1 formulations. This and and M1 TDT seem to be at or near the top of the heap as far as M1 is concerned and perhaps the iron is showing us that?. It seems that most of the criticism of the 0W/40 stems from it shearing down to a 30 weight. For turbo applications that call for 5W/30 and tend to fuel dilute anyway then 0W/40 is a great choice and I would have to believe is a great alternative in turbo and/or DI applications calling for 5W/30 once you are outside your powertrain warranty period.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Brettasaurus

Looks good to me, I wonder why we don't have the high Iron issue when using M1 in our engine that a lot of people see?
Here is my last run on M1 0W-40 for comparison.

The M1 0W/40 is a great oil. I don't know why you don't seem to see the iron like you do in the other M1 formulations. This and and M1 TDT seem to be at or near the top of the heap as far as M1 is concerned and perhaps the iron is showing us that?. It seems that most of the criticism of the 0W/40 stems from it shearing down to a 30 weight. For turbo applications that call for 5W/30 and tend to fuel dilute anyway then 0W/40 is a great choice and I would have to believe is a great alternative in turbo and/or DI applications calling for 5W/30 once you are outside your powertrain warranty period.



You mention other formulations, I've used M1 oils for 31 years with no problems at all. Last year I did UOAs on both cars at 10,000 mile OCIs and my iron numbers were very good. I still think the guys showihg high iron are the oil skippers that run one oil this change and another oil next month.