Speed Queen Dryer Runs No Heat

G

Gebo

Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
6,068
Location
VA
Any suggestions of a logical pathway of diagnosis? Other than call the repair man. LOL

The timer on the dial works. I can set on 40 minutes and 10 minutes later it has moved to 30 minutes.

Vents are clean.

240 volts at receptacle.

What next? Model No ADE3SRGS173TW01
 
Check the high-limit thermostat and the thermal fuse.
If you can jump either one and the element heats, the jumped part is bad.

Use adequate wire and don't get shocked or burned.
 
bullwinkle said:
Could have a thermal fuse or high limit bad too-time to bust out the VOM & start checking stuff…
Click to expand...
This. The dryer element will likely be in series with some thermal fuses that cut off when temps get too high. You'll have to map out the circuit, basically trace the circuit to the element, ensure you have electrical continuity on each safety device in the circuit. I would first connect an ohm meter to the element itself as that is the most likely failure in my experience.

Use ohms law to figure out what the resistance of the element should be. https://ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator is a good resource. If the element resistance checks out, time to move onto other parts of the circuit.
 
In addition to the aforementioned, sometimes the blade type connectors leading to the element terminals get corroded/overheated and thus lose connectivity. If that’s the case, an inspection of the connectors and nearby wires will usually show obvious degradation (like charred insulation near the blade connector).
 
Similar failure in our Samsung dryer last year, which turned out to be the element. As others have said, there are several possible components which may have failed, but the element is the most likely wear and tear item. Access the connections at the element and test continuity. If it's not too much of an additional PITA to extract the element, you may find a visible break in the coils.
 
Start with checking power to the element when there's commanded heat. That test gives the most information. This is 240v so don't be an idiot or it will hurt. Make sure your meter is in ACV, leads are set for voltage and wear insulating gloves. After this test you can unplug the dryer.

There's no need to jump anything on a dryer. You can function test everything with a multimeter.

You can test the integrity of the thermal fuse, thermostats and heating element with a continuity test. The element is just a big, long resistive wire circuit. If all of these pass, then it gets more interesting.
 
Last edited:
I have replaced the heating element on my Samsung twice in the last few years. Its pretty easy to tell - both my failed ones were burnt and had a gap in the heating coil. I just used cheap ones from Amazon - maybe why the second one only lasted a couple years. I had my daughter with stable hands and better eyes put on gloves and adjust each of the coils so they were nowhere near touching each other.

The one I got came with a thermostat and thermal fuse - but I didn't bother changing those.
 
The last dryer I repaired was a Whirlpool. I found a kit that included the element, thermal switches, and corresponding wiring with connectors. Before repair was made this dryer would either fry your clothes or do nothing.
 
Do I need to start from the rear or is this gonna be a frontal attack?

Looking for diagrams to find the thermal fuse. YouTube coming up.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    117.5 KB · Views: 15
On our recent dryers, the thermal fuse and heating element were right below the control panel. Lift up the lid and they might be right there.
 
Most driers open at the top. With the drier upright, pull up on the front of the top cover (it has spring latches) and tilt it back. This should be the first place to open.
 
I get 0 ohms at the thermal fuse and that thing with the red dot. When I check the heating elements (the 2 white tabs) ohm meter stays at 1.

I got a bad heating element
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6879.jpeg
    IMG_6879.jpeg
    173.8 KB · Views: 54
  • IMG_6880.jpeg
    IMG_6880.jpeg
    111.3 KB · Views: 52
Last edited:
Gebo said:
I get 0 ohms at the thermal fuse and that thing with the red dot. When I check the heating elements (the 2 white tabs) ohm meter stays at 1.
Click to expand...
How does your meter work/read ? A reading of "1" suggests you need to adjust the dial to a higher value.

You sure it's not the thermal fuse ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

9
GE Gas Dryer Igniter and MIrror Test
Replies
10
Views
2K
Chevyc10
Bailes1992
MG ZS
2
Replies
22
Views
905
Bailes1992
G
Speed Queen Washer Keeps on Running
Replies
13
Views
3K
Gebo
gathermewool
Insane Electric Rate Increase $508.68/1522 kWh
14 15 16
Replies
301
Views
14K
gathermewool
Hall
Dryer repair
2 3
Replies
41
Views
3K
Hall
Back
Top