Speed Queen Dryer Runs No Heat

[Gebo]

Thermal fuse read 0. It's a digital meter.

 

[Hall]

Thermal fuse read 0

That would normally mean "no resistance", i.e. no connection or connectivity between the terminals. Most meters output "OL" in this case, I think.

The heating element gave you a reading. The resolution is set too low, hence why it just reads "1". Increase the resolution to see what real value you get.

 

[Gebo]

Ok

 

[Nukeman7]

Unplug the red jumper terminal from the over-temperature switch ("red-button thingy") and plug the long red wire from the loom in its place. Plug in the dryer and check for heat. If there is heat, the thermostat ("thermal fuse") is bad.

If you still have no heat, unplug the dryer and restore the long red wire to the original position on the thermal fuse. Then, detach the short red jumper wire from the thermal fuse and transfer the black wire terminal from the red-button thingy to the thermal fuse terminal. Plug in the dryer and check for heat. If there is heat, the red-button over-temperature switch is bad.

Again, be 100% certain to unplug the dryer from 240V current before reaching into the dryer.

 

[nomas]

"0" on a digital ohmmeter means a dead short across the leads . A good fuse or thermal limit should read " 0" .
Or **** close to it .

 

[Gebo]

This is exactly the results I got.

 

[Nukeman7]

This is exactly the results I got.

It must be a burned out heating element after all. Glad you were able to diagnose the issue.

 

[Gebo]

Yep, with y’all’s help. Thanks to all.

 

[Gebo]

It’s up and running. Now I gotta get all that rigid duct work all connected and taped up.

Thanks for your guidance. The element break was at one of the connectors.

 

[Paco Pena]

Glad its fixed but always check to make sure there isnt a big lint build up. It can block airflow and pop the thermal fuse due to over heating. Lint fires are no bueno.

Paco

 

[Gebo]

Glad its fixed but always check to make sure there isnt a big lint build up. It can block airflow and pop the thermal fuse due to over heating. Lint fires are no bueno.

Paco

I have rigid pipe all the way. It’s clear. Thanks for heads up.

I used the ohm meter and kept fooling around with the heating element til I found the “break.”

Hardest decision was where to purchase. $39 to $190 was the price range. I wanted to make sure I got OEM and not some Chinese knock off. I did get one made in USA from Alliance.