Dryer repair

Your dryer’s model number pops up as an Admiral.
It's an Admiral - my mistake. I only needed the model # when I was looking for parts. As I said in one of my posts, this same model was in Lowes, Best Buy, Menards, etc under different "brands". When I look up a replacement part, it tells me it fits 3-4 brands...

A lot of Whirlpool and Maytag dryers still have the old mechanical knobs. I got a Whirlpool built Roper Dryer and the controls are all mechanical.
This is how ours is and what I want in a new model. The timer has a myriad of options. Granted, it's $170 alone !
 
Might see if you can find a used motor. The motor went out on my Maytag washer probably 5 or 6 years ago. I found a person who repairs used units and was able to buy a used motor from him for $50 if I recall correctly. The washer is still working today. Before doing anything else I'd check that everything is lint free including the exhaust vent. Maybe the exhaust vent is full of lint not allowing enough air flow with a full drum of cloths and is causing it to overheat and shut down.
 
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Hey, would completely respect if you want to purchase a new dryer. We inherited my In laws Ge washer and dryer in 2010, circa manufactured in 2001. A year ago the dryer would run for about a minute or two, then motor would shut down. I used AppliancePartsPros , PartsSelect, and RepairClinic.com to troubleshoot. It seemed to be the motor. After searching found an actual GE motor online made in USA, not China for $79.00. I did not particularly care to replace the dryer, then the washer does not match. Also did not want to purchase new washer and dryer with pedestals. Front load vs. top load without agitator? For $79.00 and about 1/2 half hour of time easily replaced the old motor. The videos from the three websites were excellent and made this easy. A year later and everything is still fine. If the best price you can find is $300.00 can see the wisdom of a new dryer. I am fine with a 20 year old washer and dryer as long as they function. Just have the wife and I so we are not stressing them with huge loads. I believe the timer is mechanical, none of the "you need a new circuit board".

Scott
 
We had a coin op Whirlpool that lasted 20 years for 4 families to share. As you can imagine that set has been through a lot of use and most parts have been replaced at least once. I don't know how your heating element is wired but they are not supposed to be wired in series with the motor. If the element died it should just not heat up instead of stop spinning. If hot setting stop the motor after a few minutes instead of immediately it is likely tripping the thermal / overload protection of the motor.

We bought the first motor off ebay before we know better. It was a no name aftermarket so we though the model number match it must be OEM, it died after 1 year. The next motor we got was FSP and was made by Whirlpool, it lasted till the end (7 years) and still works in the end.

For a $500 basic low end machine just replace the whole set. Maybe if you are lucky you can part out your old machine or sell it to some refurbish-er for $20.
 
The problem with going out and buying new vs fixing old is build quality, this might not be true for the OP since it sounds like his was made at a bad time for Maytag but we have a Maytag dryer going on 25 years old. About 10 years ago we had to have the element replaced and then the motor about 5 years ago (times are estimates, memory not what it use to be), I don't remember the cost but it was way less than buying a new one. Issue now and might be a deal breaker because they are not sure they can fix it is the timer won't shut it off all the time so we have to be here and awake when using it.
 
If the trip happens with full load and the drum rollers are good make sure and check the nylon glides and felt seal on the front of the drum. I had a nylon slide break and move out of position one time and the increasing friction tripped the motor circuit.
 
Google searches are leaning towards the motor being at fault. The heavier loads + higher heat cause it to overheat and trip. A replacement motor is just under $300... This dryer is in the 15-year old range so I can't complain if it needs replaced. As a last resort, I do have that heating element that I could put in. The symptoms don't suggest the element is to blame though.

Ideas ?

Buy a new dryer. But before you do that, remove the motor and see if it needs lubrication. Most motors can be lubed.
Also, I have a drill press with a bad motor. It's cheaper to buy a new drill press than it is to replace the motor.
 
Might see if you can find a used motor. The motor went out on my Maytag washer probably 5 or 6 years ago. I found a person who repairs used units and was able to buy a used motor from him for $50 if I recall correctly. The washer is still working today. Before doing anything else I'd check that everything is lint free including the exhaust vent. Maybe the exhaust vent is full of lint not allowing enough air flow with a full drum of cloths and is causing it to overheat and shut down.

Where can I look for a used motor?
 
Where can I look for a used motor?
I'd start with checking appliance stores. They may have one they've taken in on trade that they'd sell the motor off of. Might also check the yellow pages for appliance repair and maybe find someone who buys/sells used appliances and repairs them. I bought mine from a person here in my hometown that buys/repairs/sells used appliances and parts.
 
It's an Admiral - my mistake. I only needed the model # when I was looking for parts. As I said in one of my posts, this same model was in Lowes, Best Buy, Menards, etc under different "brands". When I look up a replacement part, it tells me it fits 3-4 brands...


This is how ours is and what I want in a new model. The timer has a myriad of options. Granted, it's $170 alone !
IIRC correctly our Maytag set from 05 had a mechanical timer that worked in conjunction with electronic dial selectors for the cycle and option. I'd be suprised if anyone still produces a truly electromechanical machine with no circuit boards now, but that is just my speculation.

EDIT it does appear speedqueen still makes a washer that has a mechanical timer mechanism. I guess they are not completely extinct!
 
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Does this motor have a run capacitor on it? If it does that may be bad.
No.. Shaded pole 1/3 hp motor. Already took it apart and cleaned (it was filthy inside) and lubed the bearings. I did also cleaned the contactors in the inertia switch, but maybe not well enough. Been looking at some of the newer 8" drill presses, and as far as I can tell, they are better and cheaper than a new motor for this really old (1940's??) Power King drill press. For one thing, this drill press only has 3 speeds and is a pain to move the belt. It's really only worth fixing if I can get another motor cheap, or can fix the existing motor on a second attempt.

Imagine this, except in need of refinish:

21600-A.jpg
 
That looks like a frame 48 motor which with some shopping you might find under $100. It seems that they have gotten expensive (again).

Back when that press was made, electric motors were really expensive. Most people would own one motor and move it to different machines in the shop.
 
That looks like a frame 48 motor which with some shopping you might find under $100. It seems that they have gotten expensive (again).

Back when that press was made, electric motors were really expensive. Most people would own one motor and move it to different machines in the shop.
Correct 48Y motor, and yes they are expensive. I wonder if they are really only expensive because of the current situation?
 
I wonder if you could replace that motor on the drill press with a furnace blower motor? They cost about $60 or so.
Clearly you have not shopped for a motor lately! That and most replacement furnace blower motors that I have looked at aren't the same frame type and I would have to come up with some way to mount it. So far it's still only worth fixing if I can pick up a motor cheap enough, like almost free used.
 
Clearly you have not shopped for a motor lately! That and most replacement furnace blower motors that I have looked at aren't the same frame type and I would have to come up with some way to mount it. So far it's still only worth fixing if I can pick up a motor cheap enough, like almost free used.

I just checked, 1/3 hp direct drive furnace motors are still the same $60 I paid for one a few years ago.

It looks like what you need for that is a 1/3 hp belt drive furnace motor. I found Mars Motors 10406 which might work.

Do you know any HVAC techs? They probably scrap units with a motor in them that would work.
 
I just checked, 1/3 hp direct drive furnace motors are still the same $60 I paid for one a few years ago.

It looks like what you need for that is a 1/3 hp belt drive furnace motor. I found Mars Motors 10406 which might work.

Do you know any HVAC techs? They probably scrap units with a motor in them that would work.

I don't know any HVAC techs.

That and the HF drill press new can be sometimes had for $55
 
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