SP 5W-40 vs SQ 5W-30

[kschachn]

These charts are from a Blackstone newsletter. The explanation which was left out here is that there is no difference in wear metals between oil brands that can be detected via a used oil analysis. Even between conventional, blend, and synthetic. The biggest factors in wear are viscosity, engine type, and engine use. Blackstone’s words, not mine.

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Proper comparative quality analysis between oils is expensive and far more complicated than uncontrolled $30 spectrographic analyses.

 

[JavierH19]

Quaker State is set at around $24 for 5 quarts.

Valvoline, Mobil 1 and Castrol take turns being on sale and Castrol is the one on sale now.

Quaker State is a budget minded oil. The engineers are given a budget to work with. So I would look at Valvoline, Mobil 1 and Castrol. Castrol touts with confidence on its website how much better their oil is than Mobil 1 and lists the reasons as to why.

There is also the Amsoil option and in lab tests Amsoil edges out anything sold at Walmart for a larger price.

Quaker State Euro is rebranded Pennzoil platinum euro. The gold label Qs is rebranded Pennzoil platinum as both are gtl and look the same on boa's. The only difference is marketing which quaker state doesn't get much of. Pz gets more marketing and is considered the more premium product. The regular Qs fs and regular black bottle Pz fs are probably the same. Having used both ppe and Quaker State Euro they run identical as in both have been the quietest sounding compared to non gtl euro oils.

 

[rodinator1234]

What was the indicator for doing the chains? Was it making noise? Throwing a code? I have 109k on my Gen 1 have owned it since new. Mobil 1 0w40 or 5w40 all it's live 5k oil changes so far so good.

 

[jghall00]

What was the indicator for doing the chains? Was it making noise? Throwing a code? I have 109k on my Gen 1 have owned it since new. Mobil 1 0w40 or 5w40 all it's live 5k oil changes so far so good.

Around 130,000 miles, it began throwing a P0019 code when I was towing my camper. Initially I only had the issue while towing. A mechanic at the Ford dealership told me the oil might be out of grade and suggested trying 40 weight, but that didn't fix the issue. Eventually it got progressively worse to where the throttle response lagged all the time, like it couldn't spool the turbos, but it only happened on long drives. Eventually it started happening more frequently and the P0019 code was thrown all the time. I checked the VCT_EXH_DIF parameter in Forscan and could see that the timing on bank 2 exhaust didn't match what the ECU was requesting. There was a very brief rattle noise on startup, but only if it sat without being started for several days.

If you're doing 5K OCI, I think you're doing all you can. But I think drive cycle matters as well, because most of the chain wear is likely taking place on dry starts.

 

[rodinator1234]

Around 130,000 miles, it began throwing a P0019 code when I was towing my camper. Initially I only had the issue while towing. A mechanic at the Ford dealership told me the oil might be out of grade and suggested trying 40 weight, but that didn't fix the issue. Eventually it got progressively worse to where the throttle response lagged all the time, like it couldn't spool the turbos, but it only happened on long drives. Eventually it started happening more frequently and the P0019 code was thrown all the time. I checked the VCT_EXH_DIF parameter in Forscan and could see that the timing on bank 2 exhaust didn't match what the ECU was requesting. There was a very brief rattle noise on startup, but only if it sat without being started for several days.

If you're doing 5K OCI, I think you're doing all you can. But I think drive cycle matters as well, because most of the chain wear is likely taking place on dry starts.

Which is bad I don't have a long drive to work. It's about 12 mile. The truck does lots of short trips. I do tow with it, and when I do it's down the highway usually a good trip.

 

[jghall00]

Which is bad I don't have a long drive to work. It's about 12 mile. The truck does lots of short trips. I do tow with it, and when I do it's down the highway usually a good trip.

The best advice I can offer is to stick to your 5k OCI and maybe go with an SQ oil since that cert has stricter limits for chain wear. I'm not sure how long it takes for all the oil to drain to the pan but if you're starting it frequently you're probably keeping it somewhat lubricated. The chain replacement is like 4k if you don't DIY, so try to sock away funds for an eventual repair. If you're towing, lock out the top gear(s) to reduce boost. I warped my manifolds towing in 6th.

 

[tired]

I'd say neither to the original question and go for a stringent Euro cert.

Lots of good suggestions here, but Quaker State Euro 5w40 is cheap and available at Walmart.

If you go for the Castrol Edge Euro, get the 0W-40 flavor. It's formulated with better base oils. Get the A3/B4 version.

Could also run Amsoil Euro or HPL. I mean, if you're in $4k on the timing chain, what's the minor extra marginal cost, especially when you can run it for much longer?

 

[rodinator1234]

The best advice I can offer is to stick to your 5k OCI and maybe go with an SQ oil since that cert has stricter limits for chain wear. I'm not sure how long it takes for all the oil to drain to the pan but if you're starting it frequently you're probably keeping it somewhat lubricated. The chain replacement is like 4k if you don't DIY, so try to sock away funds for an eventual repair. If you're towing, lock out the top gear(s) to reduce boost. I warped my manifolds towing in 6th.

10-4, I know they will warp the manifolds I never thought about that being a cause. I alway tow in tow-haul. I will pay attention to that and not let it shift into 6th gear. Now that you mention that I have not really noticed if it does or not when it's in tow haul. I suppose you lock out 6th by putting it in manual and just shifting it?

 

[jghall00]

10-4, I know they will warp the manifolds I never thought about that being a cause. I alway tow in tow-haul. I will pay attention to that and not let it shift into 6th gear. Now that you mention that I have not really noticed if it does or not when it's in tow haul. I suppose you lock out 6th by putting it in manual and just shifting it?

Use the down button on the gear selector. Pressing down repeatedly will lock out successive gears. Pressing up will restore them.

 

[jghall00]

I'd say neither to the original question and go for a stringent Euro cert.

Lots of good suggestions here, but Quaker State Euro 5w40 is cheap and available at Walmart.

If you go for the Castrol Edge Euro, get the 0W-40 flavor. It's formulated with better base oils. Get the A3/B4 version.

The Edge Euro 5W-40 I have on hand is ACEA A3/B4. I've been running that for awhile because I didn't know that 0W is sometimes made with better base stock, so I was trying to minimize VII. I'm thinking of going 50/50 with that and some Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 since everyone is raving about it. The valvetrain was fairly clean when I pulled it before the timing chain was done. But no clue what the piston rings look like.

 

[tired]

The Edge Euro 5W-40 I have on hand is ACEA A3/B4. I've been running that for awhile because I didn't know that 0W is sometimes made with better base stock, so I was trying to minimize VII. I'm thinking of going 50/50 with that and some Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 since everyone is raving about it. The valvetrain was fairly clean when I pulled it before the timing chain was done. But no clue what the piston rings look like.

Personally I wouldn't mix them. We don't know how the VIIs and additives will play, and if you want the benefits of Valvoline Restore and Protect, then I think you need the full dose, not a half dose.

Unfortunately the thought about fewer VIIs with a narrower spread (5W-40 vs 0W-40) only works for boutiques. That is true with Amsoil and HPL. For OTS, it's just an opportunity for them to use cheaper base oils. The Castrol 0W-30 and -40 are great oils. I'd run one or the other. Not 50/50. It's true though, about Valvoline Restore and Protect, and why we're all raving about it.

 

[jghall00]

Personally I wouldn't mix them. We don't know how the VIIs and additives will play, and if you want the benefits of Valvoline Restore and Protect, then I think you need the full dose, not a half dose.

Unfortunately the thought about fewer VIIs with a narrower spread (5W-40 vs 0W-40) only works for boutiques. That is true with Amsoil and HPL. For OTS, it's just an opportunity for them to use cheaper base oils. The Castrol 0W-30 and -40 are great oils. I'd run one or the other. Not 50/50. It's true though, about Valvoline Restore and Protect, and why we're all raving about it.

I've always been under the impression that all API certified oils are interchangeable. Is that incorrect? I figured mixing the two would facilitate some cleaning while maintaining higher viscosity. Most of the miles on the engine are easy, but sometimes on road trips I drive it like I stole it. I'm hesitant to leave a 30 weight there for any length of time, as it would likely shear. I'm also wary of clogging up the oil filter.

 

[OVERKILL]

I've always been under the impression that all API certified oils are interchangeable. Is that incorrect? I figured mixing the two would facilitate some cleaning while maintaining higher viscosity. Most of the miles on the engine are easy, but sometimes on road trips I drive it like I stole it. I'm hesitant to leave a 30 weight there for any length of time, as it would likely shear. I'm also wary of clogging up the oil filter.

The miscibility standard just means they won't split like salad dressing, it doesn't mean they will retain their performance characteristics or Winter grade. While it is highly unlikely that AW performance will suffer significantly, the most likely interaction is a (negative) change in the Winter grade.

 

[edyvw]

Personally I wouldn't mix them. We don't know how the VIIs and additives will play, and if you want the benefits of Valvoline Restore and Protect, then I think you need the full dose, not a half dose.

Unfortunately the thought about fewer VIIs with a narrower spread (5W-40 vs 0W-40) only works for boutiques. That is true with Amsoil and HPL. For OTS, it's just an opportunity for them to use cheaper base oils. The Castrol 0W-30 and -40 are great oils. I'd run one or the other. Not 50/50. It's true though, about Valvoline Restore and Protect, and why we're all raving about it.

While Castrol 0W30 and 0W40 had same amount of PAO before, 0W30 is the one that retained up to 50% PAO. 0W40 is around 10%.

 

[tired]

While Castrol 0W30 and 0W40 had same amount of PAO before, 0W30 is the one that retained up to 50% PAO. 0W40 is around 10%.

Thank you for that clarification

 

[jghall00]

The miscibility standard just means they won't split like salad dressing, it doesn't mean they will retain their performance characteristics or Winter grade. While it is highly unlikely that AW performance will suffer significantly, the most likely interaction is a (negative) change in the Winter grade.

I'm on the Gulf Coast. Winter average is less than 20 days below 32 degrees. Most trips on the Ecoboost are over 30 miles. Should I go 5K OCI with full Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 or use the rest of the 5W-40 Edge Euro, then switch for a few OCIs? I think the Edge is too good for my 2.5 Altima.

 

[OVERKILL]

I'm on the Gulf Coast. Winter average is less than 20 days below 32 degrees. Most trips on the Ecoboost are over 30 miles. Should I go 5K OCI with full Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 or use the rest of the 5W-40 Edge Euro, then switch for a few OCIs? I think the Edge is too good for my 2.5 Altima.

I'd run them separately personally. Either switch to Valvoline Restore and Protect for a few OCI's and then back to the Edge to use it up, or use up the Edge first, then start with the Valvoline Restore and Protect.

 

[Japanese]

Should I go 5K OCI with full Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 or use the rest of the 5W-40 Edge Euro, then switch for a few OCIs

If the Castrol is opened already - use it first. If it's not - you can use it any time after that within 4-5 years or so.