Genesis 0W-30 Vs 5w-30

[BMWTurboDzl]

Exactly. So if the film is already thick enough to cover surface imperfections and then another 2 layers between materials, what is the benefit of having a thicker film?

In engineering, optimal almost never means maximal. One should not take that dogmatic "we need thicker and thicker films for protection." because it just leads to uncessary stress. You want the thinnest film with adequate protection. But hey, that does require some thinking, and who wants that

Agree 100 percent but it depends on ones definition of adequate. It's why for example Ford recommends 5w50 when tracking some of their Mustangs but 5w30 for city driving in the same vehicle.

 

[kschachn]

Right, but there are plenty of folks out there running thinner oils in cars well over 200,000 miles. I agree that there is wear that you won’t find out about until very late in the game, but not seeing evidence that folks are doing better with the thicker oils. In fact, we can surmise that the vast majority of folks are following the mfr recs. Would this not mean that the outliers would be obvious?

Well just because you’re not seeing it doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist. Wear is always reduced through increased film thickness, it’s not a linear increase but it still exists. So for many of us that’s an acceptable reason to use oils with a higher HT/HS and forgo the benefit of slightly improved fuel economy.

The whole “thinner oils are better for startup wear” and “thicker oils run hotter” are not relevant. Yes an oil with a better winter rating is needed at very cold temperatures to assure pumping and to facilitate cranking, but that’s it. All oils are very thick at cold temperatures and all you’re really doing is assuring that the oil is pumpable and doesn’t gel under shear at the pump intake. That and the oil isn’t so thick that the engine won’t crank. These two attributes are assured by a proper winter rating. After that the oil will pump and will also quickly warm up to a lower viscosity.

For me it’s a question of why should I use a thinner oil? It’s not better for the engine and as long as the winter rating is appropriate for my starting temperature it will pump. I do not care if I’m squeezing out a 1-2% improvement in fuel economy. Maybe someone does and that’s fine, but it’s not a deciding factor for me.

 

[edyvw]

Right, but there are plenty of folks out there running thinner oils in cars well over 200,000 miles. I agree that there is wear that you won’t find out about until very late in the game, but not seeing evidence that folks are doing better with the thicker oils. In fact, we can surmise that the vast majority of folks are following the mfr recs. Would this not mean that the outliers would be obvious?

When I recommend ESP 0W30, it is not just because it has HTHS of 3.5cP.
ESP 0W30 has approvals that from get go setp up more stringent limits on deposits etc. than API does. If he runs AFE in his Genesis, nothing will happen. However, that oil is known to shear down etc. There is a reason for that. So, the question is: what else that oil leaves behind?
Again, that is that common question on BMW DIY Facebook page: “My VANOS solenoids are bad, and I used full synthetic all the time?”
There is more to it than just HTHS.
That doesn’t mean API oils are bad per se. But that depends on on blender to make something like AMSOIL Signature Series, and not something like AFE. Euro oils to be approved must meet stricter standards from get go, even if blender is trying to cheap it out (Castrol 5W30/40).
So, this is not just thick/thin debate. I personally run in my Honda Pilot ESP 0W20 X2 not bcs. HTHS, as it is very similar to any other API oils, but bcs. approvals.

 

[altaylar]

Agree 100 percent but it depends on ones definition of adequate. It's why for example Ford recommends 5w50 when tracking some of their Mustangs but 5w30 for city driving in the same vehicle.

Exactyl! Your use case heavly matters. When you are tracking the car the oil with get hot enough that probably that XW50 oil will behave similar to xw30 oil. That is also why I am running 5w40 on my car that calls for 0w20.
But if I was not tracking it, I would probably stick with 0w20 or xw30.

 

[Methodical2]

They’re both -30 grade oils.

Exactly and I would not waste time, money and energy changing the oil.

 

[Methodical2]

But one is 0W and the other is 5W

That for cold start ups.

 

[kschachn]

That for cold start ups.

Are you starting below -30 or so? If not then the difference is not applicable. It’s possible the 0W oil might be thicker above that temperature.

 

[CleanSump]

This is like when my Son in Law called because the shop refused to put 5W-30 A/3 B/4 Castrol Euro I gave him in his BMW X5. They insisted it "required" 0W-30 for Winter. Really? This is the Washington DC area, not Antarctica. People just don't understand. Just pick one and run it year round.

 

[kschachn]

This is like when my Son in Law called because the shop refused to put 5W-30 A/3 B/4 Castrol Euro I gave him in his BMW X5. They insisted it "required" 0W-30 for Winter. Really? This is the Washington DC area, not Antarctica. People just don't understand. Just pick one and run it year round.

What the winter rating means and does not mean is severely misunderstood by many on this site.

 

[edyvw]

This is like when my Son in Law called because the shop refused to put 5W-30 A/3 B/4 Castrol Euro I gave him in his BMW X5. They insisted it "required" 0W-30 for Winter. Really? This is the Washington DC area, not Antarctica. People just don't understand. Just pick one and run it year round.

Just join few car Facebook groups. The questions, the comments. It is depressing.

 

[GI_GRIFF]

From what I understand the Genesis GV80 3.5T GDI motor runs hot

Dealer has been putting in 0W-30 full synthetic & I’m going to start having them done locally at a highly recommended shop

For winter the 0W-30 is fine as it can get down to -45 or colder since we go to Canada every Christmas

Anyhoo, summer we go to NC and the Florida Keys visiting family and I’m wondering about putting in a 5W-30 this spring before we hit the road

Owners manual calls for the below oil & I’m thinking Red Line 5W-30 & will have about 33k miles on the car.

Thoughts on changing to 5W-30 please and thank you

SAE OW-30, API SN PLUS/SP or ILSAC GHF-6"5

Use 0W-30 year-round. There is no reason to switch back and forth. Besides the 0W-30 usually has more group 4 base in it then the 5W-30 does. Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 would be one choice. Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30 if you want to spend the money. I use Motul 8100 X Clean EFE 0W-30. There are more out there, point is, 0W-30 will work great in an Arizona summer or a Minnesota winter. The main thing is changing your oil and filter often.

 

[Methodical2]

Are you starting below -30 or so? If not then the difference is not applicable. It’s possible the 0W oil might be thicker above that temperature.

The point I was making to that poster is what's the difference between 0w and 5w as it relates to poster's questions they are both 30w and that is what most people care about if they will be towing or in hot weather. As long as it's 30w he should be good.

 

[ARB1977]

But one is 0W and the other is 5W

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