SP 5W-40 vs SQ 5W-30

[jghall00]

Basically the title. Between the two, which is the superior option?

This for my Gen 1 3.5 Ecoboost. It's at 177,000 miles and just had the chain done. I pulled the bank 2 valve cover before having the chain and related hardware replaced, and the valvetrain was in very good condition. I would like to squeeze another 60,000+ miles out of it if possible. It's running a 93 tune. Mostly mixed driving, but more low-speed highway since my daughter has been using it for her commute.

I've been using Castrol Edge 5W-40 Euro for the past 30,000 miles. Before that it was Magnatec then GTX 5W-30 since I bought it with 60,000 miles. Been going by the OLM interval, ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 miles.

 

[Patman]

Why not use SQ 5w-40?

 

[Pablo]

Does not really matter

You should have a general location in your details for climate guesswork

 

[Astro14]

I think the answer to your question is - Yes.

Since you’ve basically used both oils for extended periods and the engine looks good, it’s pretty clear that both of those oils work just fine.

The next 60,000 miles are more about the current condition of the engine, the starting point for that journey, than they are about the oil you choose to get you through that journey.

At this point, if the engine has moderate wear, and that’s how it appears, then the next 60,000 miles should be no problem. If the engine had sludge, or severe wear, then I would say no oil is gonna get it through the next 60,000.

I would anticipate getting another 100,000+ out of this engine, since you have done the chains. Years from now, when the chains need to be done again, or when the compression drops, or the oil consumption climbs, then you have a decision to make.

But for now - keep doing what got you this far.

 

[SugarMouth]

I would run Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 for the next couple oil changes then use a high mileage 5W-30 synthetic. My 2 cents.

 

[jghall00]

Why not use SQ 5w-40?

Not sure what I can find it in my area. I was looking at the API site and didn't see anything I recognized with that cert and weight. I was planning to do Valvoline Restore and Protect , but there is no Valvoline Restore and Protect SQ 0W/5W-40.

Does not really matter

You should have a general location in your details for climate guesswork

Houston region. I'll update.

 

[JavierH19]

Euro oil is a great choice. I'd change a bit more frequently. Taking any oil to 9k in a twin turbo gdi engine isn't something I'd do.

 

[Mainia]

Valvoline stated there are no plans for 0/5-40. Two options, keep your foot out of the throttle and use Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 or run HPL/Redline Performance/Motul V300, clean it. I myself would run the ester based former for 2) oil changes and 1) Valvoline Restore and Protect with 1 qt of HPL 40 Engine Cleaner and keep your foot off the throttle. Honda wants the owners of Civic R's that track only to use 0/5W-20 or they will give you a tough time on warranty, The QT of 40 HPL Engine Cleaner will up your HTHS a bit too.

 

[jghall00]

Euro oil is a great choice. I'd change a bit more frequently. Taking any oil to 9k in a twin turbo gdi engine isn't something I'd do.

I actually downloaded my old UOA the other day. I stopped doing them after this one.

 

[JavierH19]

I actually downloaded my old UOA the other day. I stopped doing them after this one.

View attachment 304637

If I owned a twin turbo dohc gdi engine like that and wanted to own it for as long as possible euro 30/40 every 3k.

I used to think it was ok to do long 10k intervals if the tbn was at least 2 and if the tan wasn't higher than tbn. After learning that lots of fine abrasive particles build up in the oil that the filter can't remove and cause a lot of damage to wear sensitive components like chain links/chain pins, piston rings, and soft aluminum caps I no longer do. Many thread have talked about how it is those who are hardcore 3k changers that had known bad engines like early 3.6 gm with timing chains that would stretch wouldn't stretch even at 300k+ as long as the oil was religiously changed every 3k along with other examples here and there. There really is something special about frequent early changes and in those threads even if you used sub par conventional 5w-20 or 5w-30 the engines seem to last forever if they had constant oil changes to keep the oil clean and free of abrasive particle buildup.

I've seen used oil analysis on engines well past break in mileage where the metals are low but the filter is full of metal. The engine is clearly failing but if one didn't open the filter the uoa would convince you everything is good. Same with the silicon they don't show all the particles only a certain small range and even then the accuracy is low and metal isn't silicon but can also float around not getting filtered and causing wear but may be outside of the size detection range in the oil test.

 

[Carlostrece]

How about 5w40 Pennzoil Platinum Euro or 0w40 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. A thin 40 is pretty close to a thick 30.

 

[Navi]

Quaker State is set at around $24 for 5 quarts.

Valvoline, Mobil 1 and Castrol take turns being on sale and Castrol is the one on sale now.

Quaker State is a budget minded oil. The engineers are given a budget to work with. So I would look at Valvoline, Mobil 1 and Castrol. Castrol touts with confidence on its website how much better their oil is than Mobil 1 and lists the reasons as to why.

There is also the Amsoil option and in lab tests Amsoil edges out anything sold at Walmart for a larger price.

 

[MalibuRam65]

I thought these new oils were supposed to prevent chain wear what gives ?

 

[Navi]

I still have these images from Amsoil showing that even the best engineered 5W30s wont beat out a cheap 5w40. It also shows if you want better than anything at Walmart to look towarda Amsoil. I can guarantee Amsoil's 0w40 will beat anything sold at Walmart.

 

[jghall00]

If I owned a twin turbo dohc gdi engine like that and wanted to own it for as long as possible euro 30/40 every 3k.

I got over 120,000 before the chain issue began appearing. No clue what OCI was used before I bought it. A 3k OCI definitely ain't happening. Don't have time for all that. My daughter drives it over 1,400 miles per month. Best I would do is stick to 5,000 miles, but honestly her drive is 80% highway so not even sure that's needed.

Maybe I will split the oil change into half SQ 30 and half SP 40.

 

[JavierH19]

I got over 120,000 before the chain issue began appearing. No clue what OCI was used before I bought it. A 3k OCI definitely ain't happening. Don't have time for all that. My daughter drives it over 1,400 miles per month. Best I would do is stick to 5,000 miles, but honestly her drive is 80% highway so not even sure that's needed.

Maybe I will split the oil change into half SQ 30 and half SP 40.

At 1500 miles a month mostly highway i'd stretch it to 5k. pcmo SQ will dilute the better additive pack in a euro oil. Truthfully just about all full synthetic oils even from a few years ago likely already meet sq. It's not a big upgrade
Only conventional and synthetic blends will likely need to be reformulated whereas most just slap the SQ label on their existing products. I think Mobil met sp or sq since 2010 since it's not that hard to make something better than bottom barrel API spec.

 

[kschachn]

Maybe I will split the oil change into half SQ 30 and half SP 40.

For what reason?

 

[Carlostrece]

I still have these images from Amsoil showing that even the best engineered 5W30s wont beat out a cheap 5w40. It also shows if you want better than anything at Walmart to look towarda Amsoil. I can guarantee Amsoil's 0w40 will beat anything sold at Walmart.

View attachment 304691View attachment 304693

5w40 Shell Rotella T6 is not a cheap oil. It's an excellent oil. At Jeep forums 5w40 Rotella has been the favorite for Jeep 4L and 4.6L and larger Jeep straight six strokers for 30 years and still is.

Another favorite for Jeep 4L and related strokers is 5w30 Rotella T6.

Rotella T6 is not a cheap oil in performance or price. Check the price at Walmart. It's not cheap.

 

[Carlostrece]

I got over 120,000 before the chain issue began appearing. No clue what OCI was used before I bought it. A 3k OCI definitely ain't happening. Don't have time for all that. My daughter drives it over 1,400 miles per month. Best I would do is stick to 5,000 miles, but honestly her drive is 80% highway so not even sure that's needed.

5000 mile OCI isn't needed because she drives mostly highway.

 

[Carlostrece]

I think choice of filter matters as much (or likely more) than choice of oil.