Don't jinx my AC!
Soon acquiring an 09 cobalt for next to nothing. Anything I should know?
- Thread starter jayjr1105
- Start date
He already told me it doesn't work. Since he's owned it but also did absolutely nothing to try resolving it so not sure if it's a leak or bad compressor, etc. At the very least I will pick up a can or two of the cheap kits just to see if and how long it holds.
Edit: also confirmed he's done nothing with the timing chain and tensioner. Perhaps that's the only issue with it?
Edit: also confirmed he's done nothing with the timing chain and tensioner. Perhaps that's the only issue with it?
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05 2.2 4 door bought new. Now at 365K miles and change. I did the timing set right past 300K, had developed start-up rattle. The two idler gears were worn enough that the method of using drill bit to hold while removing bolt didn't work as gear teeth weren't long enough. Guess I was lucky.
A/C never been touched blows as cold as new. I've replaced alternator, starter, water pump, heater core, radio, driver's window motor assy and a trans shift solenoid.
Multiple shocks, struts, a few bent wheels (rural area crappy roads). Always followed OLM usually to 0% with whatever I had on hand, which is always name brand quality stuff though not necessarily synthetic. Anything from 5w-30, 10w-30, 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40, 15w-50 and 20w-50. Sometimes a mix of any of those based on what I had.
When I had VC off for timing set, not suprisingly was a little dirty, but doesn't seem to have affected longevity.
Still runs/drives great - I'd take it cross country tomorrow.
I did also replace trans mounts and engine mounts not long ago. And have done spark plugs 3x.
A/C never been touched blows as cold as new. I've replaced alternator, starter, water pump, heater core, radio, driver's window motor assy and a trans shift solenoid.
Multiple shocks, struts, a few bent wheels (rural area crappy roads). Always followed OLM usually to 0% with whatever I had on hand, which is always name brand quality stuff though not necessarily synthetic. Anything from 5w-30, 10w-30, 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40, 15w-50 and 20w-50. Sometimes a mix of any of those based on what I had.
When I had VC off for timing set, not suprisingly was a little dirty, but doesn't seem to have affected longevity.
Still runs/drives great - I'd take it cross country tomorrow.
I did also replace trans mounts and engine mounts not long ago. And have done spark plugs 3x.
Ok update time guys. Car and title now in hand. Spent a good amount of time today just cleaning it, removing debris and such. Current issues...
PICS
PICS
- Starts on first try 75% of the time, second attempt it fires up 100% of the time.
- Fob doesn't work ( I think rubber contacts are worn and can probably fix this one )
- I have yet to see the cooling fan kick on when sitting idle for 10 min or so. (it was 93 here today)
- Some of the paint on the doors is bone dry matte finish. Clear coat basically doesn't exist. Suggestions for inexpensive DIY fix welcome.
- Front speakers don't work. Might be the radio. Haven't had time to troubleshoot this yet although a new head unit is planned anyway.
- AC doesn't work but when turned on, I can hear the compressor clutch engage. Perhaps I'll have the mechanic look at if it will hold refrigerant.
- Tons of dark red varnish when I look into oil fill hole. It was 2 quarts low so I added some 5w20 I just had leftover from a previous job.
- I have a filter coming tomorrow and will do a full change. Should I use a little seafoam or anything to slowly start the cleanup process?
My experience is that these cars are simple and reliable.
The timing chain sucks as do the insta-rust fuel/egr/evap lines but not difficult to repair
My AC needs a refill occasionally but works well
And yeah the front speakers never work, hopefully something simple in the door not requiring a rewire
The timing chain sucks as do the insta-rust fuel/egr/evap lines but not difficult to repair
My AC needs a refill occasionally but works well
And yeah the front speakers never work, hopefully something simple in the door not requiring a rewire
1. Most likely the speakers are shot. Or the wiring to them as they bend at the door hinge.
2. If you can sand the doors down to an even matte, it might be worth trying to spray clear yourself; it’s fun practicing on an inexpensive ride. 400 grit is your friend.
3. If you want the Ac to stay working, definitely find a pro. Adding a can to a set of lines without pulling a vacuum, not to mention that a lot of those kits have stop-leak in them, is a recipe for destroying whatever is left that still works.
4. I have used half cans of seafoam in the sump long term with great slow success. But not with a 20 weight. I might use a 5-30 if I were to put half a can in there. I also won’t flog it hard with that much seafoam. Something you could do before is actually pour in an oil flush, or a full can of seafoam and let it idle hot for half an hour before draining the old stuff out.
2. If you can sand the doors down to an even matte, it might be worth trying to spray clear yourself; it’s fun practicing on an inexpensive ride. 400 grit is your friend.
3. If you want the Ac to stay working, definitely find a pro. Adding a can to a set of lines without pulling a vacuum, not to mention that a lot of those kits have stop-leak in them, is a recipe for destroying whatever is left that still works.
4. I have used half cans of seafoam in the sump long term with great slow success. But not with a 20 weight. I might use a 5-30 if I were to put half a can in there. I also won’t flog it hard with that much seafoam. Something you could do before is actually pour in an oil flush, or a full can of seafoam and let it idle hot for half an hour before draining the old stuff out.
You got the right model. Four door LT model is an excellent choice. The two-door models have poor side impact scores and Cobalts tend to be pretty sparse with equipment on the more base trims. However you can easily upgrade many of those without much hassle at all. These vehicles are (mostly) designed for those of us who like to stay on top of our vehicle's condition and perform simple maintenance over time.
Like the Cavalier, Ion, and Sunfire. the Cobalt tends to hover at or above average when it comes to long-term reliability. GM compacts are easily the best domestic compacts in the market, and disgustingly affordable as you already know.
https://www.dashboard-light.com/vehicles/Chevrolet_Cobalt.html
Unfortunately the guy who had it before obviously neglected it. However replacement engines are pretty cheap.
Finally you can find an enthusiast forum here.
Enjoy!
Like the Cavalier, Ion, and Sunfire. the Cobalt tends to hover at or above average when it comes to long-term reliability. GM compacts are easily the best domestic compacts in the market, and disgustingly affordable as you already know.
https://www.dashboard-light.com/vehicles/Chevrolet_Cobalt.html
Unfortunately the guy who had it before obviously neglected it. However replacement engines are pretty cheap.
Finally you can find an enthusiast forum here.
Enjoy!
Keys get stuck in the ignition. Fortunately, GM released a fix for this issue via a small button, or plunger, near the steering column. There was also a recall issued for the problem. If you’re shopping for a Cobalt, ensure that the key comes out of the ignition cylinder properly and make note of the button release for it. Also, make sure that the recall was addressed.
Bad gas cap. Get a new one but TRIPLE CHECK the original. Not sure if you are in an emissions area but they fail. When I was an emissions Inspector I found out that there are 8 different gas cap designs, why I have no idea. The biggest is the single vs double spiral. It might fit but trip the check engine light. Many auto parts people can't tell the difference.
It tries to start, engine turns. I don't believe it's a starter issue.
I can pull a door panel off and test a speaker and I was already watching numerous videos tonight on clear coat repair. Seems everyone recommends some wet sanding and then using the good clear coat with a hardener in it.
The earlier Non-VVT 2.2L & 2.0L(SC) engines are quite reliable, Unfortunately....'09 would have a VVT 2.2L or a VVT 2.0L(TC).
With all the money people are telling you to throw at this Cobalt you could probably buy something without issues.
I would do some simple maintenance and drive it for a bit, see how it behaves. Is the starting issue more noticable when it sits for a period of time vs a quick restart
I would do some simple maintenance and drive it for a bit, see how it behaves. Is the starting issue more noticable when it sits for a period of time vs a quick restart
You might just be looking at the top of a baffle; mine also looks dark and varnished there but that's a place that doesn't get much flow. On mine, the rest of the valvetrain looks good as new.
IIRC the fobs are notorious for not working after the wrong drop (solder on the battery clip fails). You can likely find some how tos on yourcobalt. Replacement fob and programing was cheap enough when I wanted a second one.
If memory serves the car can have trouble firing up if the fuel goes back into the tank. This can take minutes or hours depending on the severity.
Sometimes a bad check valve somewhere.
Easy way to know is to see if fuel is spitting in the throttle body after the cars sat overnight on first crank
If it’s not or very little you know the likely culprit, generally the fuel pump will fill it back up after 30 seconds.
I have an '07 that I bought at 85k miles for $1800 from a sad Dad whose son OD'ed in it. The Dad just wanted to be done with it and all the related bad memories.
The timing had been done shortly before I bought it. Now at 185k miles with no major issues. Had the fuel line rust out as others have mentioned. A couple batteries and sets of tires and brakes. No major mechanical issues.
Front door speakers are known to fail. I've replaced two of them so far.
Mine is an oil burner. I check it every weekend and generally add 1/2 to 1 qt depending on how much it has been driven; normally 300-600 miles. It's had this oil consumption issue ever since I bought it. I first discovered it when the oil pressure light flashed on as I made a sharp left turn on morning on the way to work.
No issues with the AC on mine.
The timing had been done shortly before I bought it. Now at 185k miles with no major issues. Had the fuel line rust out as others have mentioned. A couple batteries and sets of tires and brakes. No major mechanical issues.
Front door speakers are known to fail. I've replaced two of them so far.
Mine is an oil burner. I check it every weekend and generally add 1/2 to 1 qt depending on how much it has been driven; normally 300-600 miles. It's had this oil consumption issue ever since I bought it. I first discovered it when the oil pressure light flashed on as I made a sharp left turn on morning on the way to work.
No issues with the AC on mine.
Try 10w30 or 0w40, my car drinks a little around 1200 miles on a change, uses less with slightly stronger oil.
Just a little update on this car. I've spent $300 or so on various maintenance items here and there. I also replaced that suction hose for the AC and the shop said it holds a vacuum!
The shop also had to replace a downstream o2 sensor, the back half of the exhaust, and the rear brakes. All in all with inspection, all repairs, title, registration, plates, AC system recharge, I'm sitting at $1300. I feel like I made out pretty well considering the car cost almost nothing.
The shop also had to replace a downstream o2 sensor, the back half of the exhaust, and the rear brakes. All in all with inspection, all repairs, title, registration, plates, AC system recharge, I'm sitting at $1300. I feel like I made out pretty well considering the car cost almost nothing.
Having a 2007 G6 with the ecotec 4 cyl definitely keep a eye on the oil level they like to drink oil. I always used syn 5w30 just changed to Valvoline 10w30 dino because I got it dirt cheap 1000 mile no makeup oil usually im adding a quart at this time with syn.
