Her 2002 Jetta with a 2.0L has been fed a steady diet of dino 5w-30 and 10w-30 with OCIs of 3-5K miles (she let it go 9K miles once or twice in the past). It also consumes some oil between changes. I just finished a second Auto-Rx cycle at 94K miles. After reading some past posts, it seems that this engine really should have been getting a Xw-40 oil at the very least. Any thoughts? Also, would switching to a blend or synthetic be beneficial at this point? I want to be able to get at least another 100k out of this car. Thanks!!
Some help with my wife's 2.0L Jetta....
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Mom has a 2.0 Passat that burns zero oil. 12 years of city driving on 15w-40. Her car has the piston rings properly installed, unlike most 2.0s. Nothing can cure the burning, but in Cali, you can use a 15w-40 too, or the best bet is a 10w-40 Hi-Miles oil, like MaxLife or GTX HM.
Supertech 15w-40 year round in a 03 Golf, no problem, no oil consumption.
Yep, most German cars prefer thicker oils. I would run one of the following choices: Rotella Synthetic 5w40, Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5w40 or Castrol Syntec 5w40.
Okay, I would recommend running any oil that has the VW 502.00 spec. If you want to stay in the xw30 weight range, go with Castrol Syntec 0w30. You can only get it at Autozone. Even better that it is made in Germany and imported to the U.S.. Autozone has a sale on this fluid right now.
Some of the VW 2.0l (8v SOHC) engines can tend to "drink" some oil, particularly when using 30 weights like 5W-30 or 10W-30's. This will not present a problem for engine longevity as long as the oil level is checked regularly and topped up if necessary. These engines tend to be very robust and long lived engines that are relatively easy on oil because of the belt drive camshaft.
Modern Group II/II+ based SM/GF-4 rated oils (the latest specification introduced 2004) and their additive packages tend to be so good, even at 5-6k mile oil changes I think 300K miles should not be a problem for that engine.
A quick google shows that by jumping up to a 40 weight some owners reduced their oil consumption down to almost nothing while with 30 weights they consumed a bit of oil.
Like I say, 30 weights are fine, but if the oil level isn't being checked regularly on a 5-6k mile oil change you could consider something like a 15W-40 HDEO or a 10w-40 to reduce consumption. I like the 15W-40 HDEO's if the climate is conducive to using a 15W and you don't need the cold pumping properties of a 5W or 10W oil.
You could consider a 5W-40 synthetic also, but oil changes would have to be extended to 7-8k miles to make the cost close to evening out with conventional.
Modern Group II/II+ based SM/GF-4 rated oils (the latest specification introduced 2004) and their additive packages tend to be so good, even at 5-6k mile oil changes I think 300K miles should not be a problem for that engine.
A quick google shows that by jumping up to a 40 weight some owners reduced their oil consumption down to almost nothing while with 30 weights they consumed a bit of oil.
Like I say, 30 weights are fine, but if the oil level isn't being checked regularly on a 5-6k mile oil change you could consider something like a 15W-40 HDEO or a 10w-40 to reduce consumption. I like the 15W-40 HDEO's if the climate is conducive to using a 15W and you don't need the cold pumping properties of a 5W or 10W oil.
You could consider a 5W-40 synthetic also, but oil changes would have to be extended to 7-8k miles to make the cost close to evening out with conventional.
Thanks for all the great information. Forgive my ignorance on this, is the camshaft belt the same as the timing belt? I had that replaced, along with the water pump, at 80K.
If I were to switch to a synthetic 40 wt oil, I shouldn't be concerned with the possibility of any leaking seals, especially after an Auto-Rx cycle, right?
If I were to switch to a synthetic 40 wt oil, I shouldn't be concerned with the possibility of any leaking seals, especially after an Auto-Rx cycle, right?
Quote:
the camshaft belt the same as the timing belt?
Yes, same thing -- I probably should have said timing belt, as that is the more commonly used term.
Quote:
If I were to switch to a synthetic 40 wt oil, I shouldn't be concerned with the possibility of any leaking seals, especially after an Auto-Rx cycle, right?
Shouldn't have any problem here. Most of the leaking problems with synthetics were encountered with older engines (~ 15+ years) and some of the older PAO/Ester synthetics from years ago.
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… cost close to evening out with conventional.
Stay with me folks, I'm inventing new word terminology as I go.
the camshaft belt the same as the timing belt?
Yes, same thing -- I probably should have said timing belt, as that is the more commonly used term.
Quote:
If I were to switch to a synthetic 40 wt oil, I shouldn't be concerned with the possibility of any leaking seals, especially after an Auto-Rx cycle, right?
Shouldn't have any problem here. Most of the leaking problems with synthetics were encountered with older engines (~ 15+ years) and some of the older PAO/Ester synthetics from years ago.
Quote:
… cost close to evening out with conventional.
Stay with me folks, I'm inventing new word terminology as I go.
While contemplating all the good advice you all have given found that Autozone is having a sale on Castrol Syntec 5w-40 (5 quarts + a M1 filter) for ~25 bucks. Couldnt pass it up, going to switch over to synthetic. Maybe I'll go back to a blend unless I find another good deal before the next oil change.
Thanks for all the help
Thanks for all the help
Originally Posted By: Drew1977
While contemplating all the good advice you all have given found that Autozone is having a sale on Castrol Syntec 5w-40 (5 quarts + a M1 filter) for ~25 bucks. Couldnt pass it up, going to switch over to synthetic. Maybe I'll go back to a blend unless I find another good deal before the next oil change.
Thanks for all the help
Go back and buy more.
While contemplating all the good advice you all have given found that Autozone is having a sale on Castrol Syntec 5w-40 (5 quarts + a M1 filter) for ~25 bucks. Couldnt pass it up, going to switch over to synthetic. Maybe I'll go back to a blend unless I find another good deal before the next oil change.
Thanks for all the help
Go back and buy more.
fwiw, Mom's Passat 2.0 has MaxLife Synth in it now.
Just toss Castrol Syntec 5W40 in that VW and be done with it. It meets the VW specs 502.0 and 505.00. I use it in my Jetta.
Originally Posted By: Drew1977
Her 2002 Jetta with a 2.0L has been fed a steady diet of dino 5w-30 and 10w-30 with OCIs of 3-5K miles (she let it go 9K miles once or twice in the past). It also consumes some oil between changes. I just finished a second Auto-Rx cycle at 94K miles. After reading some past posts, it seems that this engine really should have been getting a Xw-40 oil at the very least. Any thoughts? Also, would switching to a blend or synthetic be beneficial at this point? I want to be able to get at least another 100k out of this car. Thanks!!
Second Auto-rx treatment completed, switch to a good syn as stated above, and you should go another 100k easy. I'd use GC personally, the Deutsch match sems to work well. Tune it, pick an oil and post the analyses every 20- 30k, would be an interesting report.
Her 2002 Jetta with a 2.0L has been fed a steady diet of dino 5w-30 and 10w-30 with OCIs of 3-5K miles (she let it go 9K miles once or twice in the past). It also consumes some oil between changes. I just finished a second Auto-Rx cycle at 94K miles. After reading some past posts, it seems that this engine really should have been getting a Xw-40 oil at the very least. Any thoughts? Also, would switching to a blend or synthetic be beneficial at this point? I want to be able to get at least another 100k out of this car. Thanks!!
Second Auto-rx treatment completed, switch to a good syn as stated above, and you should go another 100k easy. I'd use GC personally, the Deutsch match sems to work well. Tune it, pick an oil and post the analyses every 20- 30k, would be an interesting report.
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