Soil analysis

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Jul 12, 2012
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FY I here is a soil a sample taken from my 4 acre grass field. I give the report to the Ag guy at Simplot and like magic 2,500+ pounds of magic potion shows up in a pto or ground driven driven spreader then after I call for a pickup they want money. $850.00 my field is fertilized. Something different to look at.
 

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Can’t open it, but I’m a big believer in soil testing. About the same price as a UOA.

I grow in containers and make my own growing medium. My homemade stuff was fine on the N P K but deficient on about half the micronutrients.

I now have developed a loose recipe using real chemical name ferts added to wood chips from the City transfer station that’s been broken down with about 10 pounds of Urea commercial fertilizer ( I’m not an organic grower.) Some if them aren’t even marketed as ferts: Boric acid roach poison (Boron) about 5 grams mixed in water on each side of the 1.3 cubic yard pile. (Full size short bed pickup truck load.) Copper Sulfate root poison 3-5 grams on each side mixed in water for copper. Epsom salts, 80 grams for Magnesium. Diatomaceous earth sweeping compound from Autozone or NAPA to keep it from clumping up.

Don’t guess. Measure.
 
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A buddy of mine does this for agriculture. Lots of farmers get these done as they have fields all over the place and it is a sure way to maximize your fertilizer usage. Some guys even break down their fields further for even specialized applications.

I love it. Science trumps bench racing.
 
We just started fertilizing to a sample this year as we took over a farm. It also indicates the amount of lime per acre to spread based on some basic math using ENM and ENMg. Even with a dry spell we had a very good hay crop and it will continue to improve as I can correct lime and nutrient content in the soil over the next few years. The next step will be pasture maintenance.
 
Thanks for sharing wpod. I love soil management dynamics. I manage both greenhouse and nursery soils and do dozens of soil tests annually. Some rules of thumb I've learned over many decades is:

Like blood and oil analysis, soil tests are a measure at one specific time. Nutrient content varies over the seasons and test results can be affected by the seasonal weather, biological activity, etc.. It's best to use a single test as a general guideline, not an exact cook book recipe. The best thing you can do is to test regularly (1 - 3 yrs. outdoors) and trend the analysis vs. your practices.

Soil testing labs calibrate their results to their region and soil types. Often, you cannot compare soil tests from one lab vs. another unless you know their testing procedures and calibration guidelines. It's not unlike how oil analysis labs use different TBN methods and the results are not comparable.

Be careful about pH adjustment because its sometimes difficult to judge buffering capacity. I know a few establishments that messed up their soil for several years because they went a bit crazy with applications.

Soil testing is similar to owning a torque wrench. After a while it kind of becomes a crutch in that you start to use and rely on it more than you might like! The days of guessing are left behind.

Many states have land grant university extension programs with lots of regional based expertise. Try tapping into that knowledge base.

Wishing everyone a great new year ahead of us.
 
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My containers have radically changing chemistry compared to actual soil. The very rich stuff I started with in May is substantially depleted in October. (Yes, the phosphorus drops more slowly than other nutes although it was still significant.)

I can at least keep the Ph adjusted all by myself with test strips. That’s been useful all by itself.
 
Here is the same field planted on 2018 with an Orchard grass mono culture fertilized each spring using the previous posted above soil Analysis sheet from above and here is a new one. The Orchard Grass has died off to where I and getting half the number of bales in the spring cutting. . I am debating over seeding with some kind of Brome with Annual rye grass or Festololium as a nurse crop or redoing the whole field in some kind of Brome With Rye grass/ festololium as a nurse crop. I have a brown thiumb to say the least.. I can not get a good upload of the soil test.
 

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