So say I run 10w40 instead of 20w50 in my vulcan?

[MrCPU]

What symptoms would I likely see? How would problems most likely manifest themselves? Summers run low hundreds, startup temp say no lower than 50 in the summer, although frankly with 10 weight, I would think I'd be fine in the middle of winter...

Vulcan 1500, factory stock, non fuel injected.

 

[dnewton3]

You're not going to hurt the bike either way.

Why not try each for a few OCI's. See which one "feels" better during shifting. That is probably the most tangible characteristic of oil that bikers can attest to. The shared engine/tranny oil has a direct effect on percieved "quality" that cage drivers cannot comment on.

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: MrCPU


What symptoms would I likely see? None How would problems most likely manifest themselves? Increased engine wear in the long term

Vulcan 1500, factory stock, non fuel injected.

 

[MrCPU]

I might try it. I'm going to do an auto-rx cycle because my mechanic thinks I have apartially clogged oil passage up in the head, so I'm hoping auto-rx and perhaps a slightly thinner oil will get that passage cleaned out.

I don't want to pull it apart unless I absolutely have to.

I ended up with several quarts of amsoil 10w40 XL oil that I need to use p somewhere. I'll have to see if it has any friction mods in it, otherwise, I'll try the rotella HDEO.

I suppose a UOA woulnd't be completely out of line.

 

[wileyE]

If the mechanic suspects a clogged passage due to some light clatter from the topend at startup? No worry, all the vulcans and nomads do it, even new ones. It takes a second for the hydraulic lash adjusters to pump up. Now if he's seeing galling along with heat discoloration on the cam or journals, than that's another matter.




Originally Posted By: MrCPU
I might try it. I'm going to do an auto-rx cycle because my mechanic thinks I have apartially clogged oil passage up in the head, so I'm hoping auto-rx and perhaps a slightly thinner oil will get that passage cleaned out.

I don't want to pull it apart unless I absolutely have to.

I ended up with several quarts of amsoil 10w40 XL oil that I need to use p somewhere. I'll have to see if it has any friction mods in it, otherwise, I'll try the rotella HDEO.

I suppose a UOA woulnd't be completely out of line.

 

[MrCPU]

Actually, it a clatter that comes and go at high heat. But clatter is putting it mildly, it's quite the clack.

I can drive down the ghighway when it's 90 degrees out, and all of a sudden, it will start clacking, sounds like banging on a pipe with a pipewrench. No change in performance, or anything, just the clang. It'll do it for 20-30 seconds, then goes away for days regardless of what I do.

Thenif the bike sits for a few days, it'll clang the same when it gets hot. He thinks not enough oil is getting up into the top for some reason, and when it sits and drains down, it clanks until it finally gets lubed enough.

Didn't do it until about 6k miles, and well out of warranty timewise.

So I'm going to auto-rx it, and run a little lighter oil to see if the auto-rx will clean itout, and then go from there.

 

[wileyE]

have you tried a different brand filter? checked the cam chain tensioner?

As far as oil starvation the smallest orifice in the route to the top end is the push rod socket on the rocker lifter and the rocker lash adjuster itself. If worse comes to worse you might pull em and spray cleaner through them ?

see if I can post a pic. hydraulic lash adjusters on the left, small orifice on the right.

It's not uncommon to find chunks of gasket sealant from assembly, usually caught on the pump filter screen. Possible one may have found its way into an oil passage? good luck and let us know the outcome, those motors are usually rock solid 100k+ without touching a thing.

 

[wileyE]

 

[MrCPU]

Screen was checked when I took it in a couple years ago for the problem, the mechanic "back flushed" it, and put in new oil. Then the bike sat for almost a year, only ridden once or so for various reasons.

Finally got some time to get back to it, and it's clacking away.

THe reason I think it's lube is that except for really long runs (for me, which is more an a quick trip to town), or after it sits a really long time, it doens't make the noise.

Cam chain tensioners were reset as well. And bnoth appeared to be functioning normally.

Almost wish it woudl just break, so I could fix it.

Maybe for the clean cycle, I'll run some 30 weight through it for a bit, rather than the 50 I've been using. Perhps tha twill letthe auto-rx circulate a bit better. Maybe change the filter a couple times just in case.

 

[wileyE]

Is there any drop in power when it happens? If you were dropping one cyl from something like a coil heating up it would make a clatter. Or if the spark got weak from some other ignition related issue.

 

[MrCPU]

Nope. It runs fine, just clangs away. If it sits for a few days, then the clang goes on for sometimes a few minutes, then just slowly fades away.

It's a stumper. And I have used the word clatter, but to me, clatter is more things like valve clatter, and injector noise like on a diesel and such. THis is more tap tap tap or clack clack clack. RPM related, speeds up, slows down with the throttle...

I wonder if one of the lifters could be bad? Hmph. Well, autorx shoudl be here in a day or so, we'll see.

 

[Mike_dup1]

AMSOIL XL Synthetic Motor Oils are fuel efficient oils formulated with friction modifiers to reduce energy loss from friction.

 

[wileyE]

Can you pin point which jug is doing it? If it was a tic tic tic I wouldn't rule out a exhaust leak at the head that heals itself when the pipe heats or changes tension from engine movement?

 

[MrCPU]

Sounds like the front one to me. It's possible it's an exhaust leak, although it would seem that being cold one day would be just as "relaxed" as being cold 3 days, yet one day probably won't clatter, 3 days will.

Not saying it isn't, but I just don't know. I may pick up a new set of washers and reset the pipe and torque it down. Or maybe it's time to put on some V&H short pipes and just pretend it doens't exist because I can't hear it over the pipe noise.

WHat to do...

 

[Gary in Sandy Eggo]

Interesting thread. I've just experienced the same thing with my air/oil cooled Intruder 1400.

Just recently I've noticed a lifter-like chatter at low rpm's following 3rd gear 40-50 mph mountain climbing in moderately warm (80F+) temperatures. After a few moments of easy riding, the sound will go away. The only thing that's changed (about 3000 miles ago) is the type of filter that I'm using. It's a Napa 1359 which has the relief valve at the threaded end of the filter (which I consider superior) rather than the bottom end like most other filters have. In the past I've used Fram, STP, and EMGO filters with nothing to give me cause to worry.

However, since this is a new sound and the only thing that's changed is type of filter, I just pulled the Napa filter off and put a Fram filter (only one readily available) on to see if this makes a difference under like conditions. If it does, I'll be going back to EMGO filters.

Other related information: Oil used for the last 30K miles is Pennzoil SAE-40. Current oil has 3K miles on it. Lost about 1/2-quart (some dribble plus filter contents) during the change, and made that up to bring the level back to the full mark.

I'll let all know what I find out, but would be interested if anyone has any insight into this.

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

Update: OK, it wasn't the filter. Did another ride today, and while the sound wasn't quite as pronounced, it's still there.

It seems to be rpm dependent. That is, if the engine's in 3rd gear while running 50 mph or higher and under load (climbing), after about a minute I'll start to hear a chattering like a valve lifter(s) has partially collapsed. Then, if the engine slows down, or I go to an idle, there's a pronounced lifter tapping for about half a minute, then it goes quiet.

I've now drained the oil and put in a 10W-40 which I'll use for the next 1500 miles until I reach the 5000 mile OCI. This'll tell me if there was something wrong with the oil.

Anyone got any thoughts?

 

[MrCPU]

No idea. I just changed over to some ARX and rotella 15w40 HDEO, but it'll take me a year to get 2000 miles on it with my schedule.

I'll put something on my google calendar to check back in a couple years.

 

[Gary in Sandy Eggo]

Update #2. OK, I've put about 200 miles on some Chevron 10W-40. No real change in the 20-30 second valve tapping following higher rpm associated with extended uphill climbing. It can't be just temperature because the tapping will go away after about 20-30 seconds while idling (no cooling taking place).

When I get within a couple hundred miles of 35K, I'll throw in some Rislone or some other engine cleaner and see if that helps.

Bike sounds just fine under cruising conditions. Weird.