Maybe you need to get out of Louisiana and see the world some? Most of the planet has a winter.
Everywhere on the planet has a "Winter". Some locations are just colder than others. The one's that are, I don't care to experience.
Maybe you need to get out of Louisiana and see the world some? Most of the planet has a winter.
Perhaps you missed my post on the first page of this thread that cited multiple sources including Castrol, Lubrizol...etc that all indicated that it stood for "Winter".I enjoyed reading this so far, quite enlightening for me, a neophyte, on all the nuances of lubricants and their classifications. One thing I take away from this is the quibbling over the "W" as in 5W/20. For many years I believed it stood for weight and I see others here believe it stands for "winter". Winter is a subjective term that is interjected into all these tables of objective data and is useless in choosing an oil when I look at winter here in south Louisiana where we rarely drop below 32 degrees Fahrenheit and compared to someone who lives in Nome, Alaska who may see that temp in late spring. The only definitive answer for what "W" stands for in an objective measurement for the number the it follows is this quote posted by an earlier poster. So there it is, "W" means that the number preceding it is the viscosity measurement at -18 degrees C, (0 degrees F), a temperature I hope never to experience here in South Louisiana.
Now is it time for me to continue on to Chapter -2-.
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Valvoline who's been in the oil business for over 100 years also says the "W" stands for winter. But hey, what do they know?Perhaps you missed my post on the first page of this thread that cited multiple sources including Castrol, Lubrizol...etc that all indicated that it stood for "Winter".
Thin vs Thick Discussion Chapter 1
A few things I keep hearing again and again: “The flow will be proper because its a positive displacement oil pump. The flow will always be exactly related to the RPM. It makes no difference what oil weight you use” This is Wrong. “0-30 is too thin, my engine requires a 10-30 oil.” Wrong again...bobistheoilguy.com
It was silly back then as well. I rebuilt a friends Pontiac 455 engine [stock rebuild] back then and on initial fire up up the oil pressure was over 80 psi on the gauge . One of the guys said watching said "you have too thick oil in the engine" I asked why he said that? The engine is at 2,500 RPM and the oil pressure should be 25 psi. I thought the guy read oil 101 and I was correct. The engine was running less that a minute.I caught that too. I think he missed this part with his edit. This piece was written probably 15 years ago.
There is no more flow volume due to the fact that the oil is being delivered to the oiling system by a positive displacement oil pump. In fact, the PD oil pump might just be a little less efficient in pumping the thinner 5W-20 due to increased rotor slippage.I like how the thinner visc oil flows more volume carrying away heat.
There is no more flow volume due to the fact that the oil is being delivered to the oiling system by a positive displacement oil pump. In fact, the PD oil pump might just be a little less efficient in pumping the thinner 5W-20 due to increased rotor slippage.
If the pump isn't in pressure relief (bypass) then the flow is the same if the pump efficiency stays constant. In order to get "honey", you'd have to be trying to start an engine at -25F with 20W-50, which isn't something should be doing anyway. Cold starting at any temp within the "W" rating of the oil, and not revving the engine very high until warmed up, should not put the PD in to pressure relief.An extreme example = pump honey then 0w20 thru the pump and the engine oil passages for 1 min and see which flows more volume, don't forget the thicker honey goes thru the bypass.
Hate to burst your bubble, but 5w30 is still CAFEI've decided to only use 5W-30 synthetic in all of my vehicles for better protection of the engine. It's such a great feeling of independence to ignore CAFE ..
Most engines I've owned go into bypass at idle when cold (If the pump isn't in pressure relief (bypass) then the flow is the same if the pump efficiency stays constant. In order to get "honey", you'd have to be trying to start an engine at -25F with 20W-50, which isn't something should be doing anyway. Cold starting at any temp within the "W" rating of the oil, and not revving the engine very high until warmed up, should not put the PD in to pressure relief.
Is it a digital or analog oil pressure gauge? Lots of analog gauges aren't very accurate. What does the service manual say the oil pump pressure relief setting is?Most engines I've owned go into bypass at idle when cold (
My Yukon w/6.2L makes the same oil pressure(35psi) at hwy speed (2k rpm) at normal operating temp (210*f) with both 0w20 and 5w30. At cold startup (70*f) both oil weights make the same oil psi, 50 psi. I can rev the engine a little when cold and it doesn't go over 50 psi. Its in bypass.
My Toyota doesn't even have an oil pressure gauge?
But xW-30 is now the red headed stepchild of CAFE.Hate to burst your bubble, but 5w30 is still CAFE
What if it said 5W-20, but the previous years of the same engine said 5W-30 ... as in back speced?Caps on all my cars say 5w30 and that's what she gets, no time for all the expert one-upmanship BS.
Consider a "thick" 0-20. Just installed PUP and it runs "thicker" in my Camry than my previous fill of AFE. Probably about 2.6 HTHS.Yes it is very likely I'm going to run heavier oil in my New Mazda than 0W-20.