It gives the cam more lift. Takes a .440 lift cam to around .480 or so. Plus, being a roller it is less friction than a stamped rocker.
Sludgy 1990 F150 5.0
- Thread starter cbrf3
- Start date
You can try an ez out set or you can just drill it out and worse case use a helicoil insert. If it was mine I'd pickup a used set of heads, most practically give them away. I'd grind out the bump in the exhaust port, clean them up and rock on.
The 1.7 ratio rockers will increase the valve lift by 6.25% over the stock 1.6 ratio rockers. For example, if your stock cam creates .480" valve lift with the stock 1.6 rockers, the 1.7 rockers would increase that to .510" valve lift. The lift of the cam lobe is multiplied by the rocker ratio so a higher rocker ratio means more lift at the valve. It also means slightly more duration at the .050" and .200" lift points as the valve is opening faster to those points. The aftermarket rockers also come in roller tip and fulcrums which helps reduce frictional losses.
The effect on a stock 5.0L wouldn't be huge. An increase of 5-8 hp, on average from 3500-5500 rpm, is realistic. You shouldn't see any change in torque or maybe just 1-2 lb-ft loss. If you do go with 1.7 rockers though, you'll want to upgrade the valve springs as well. Some people get away with stock springs if they aren't revving the engine very high. I've personally floated the valves with stock springs with a stock cam and stock rockers. They're pretty weak, especially if they have some miles on them.
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No matter which way you go OP, use a dab of anti-seize on the new bolts so this won't happen again.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
That unfortunately looked exactly like I expected it to, lol
On the stuck broken bolt, a drill bit and an easy out is likely your best bet.
So I think my Son wants to use the stock parts but is there anything else we should replace while we are in there?
Any tips to removing the old, stuck on gasket on the heads?
We appreciate all the replies.
Any tips to removing the old, stuck on gasket on the heads?
We appreciate all the replies.
Yes, a bit more lift at the valve and duration. Perhaps the more important benefit is accurate and consistant ratios versus factory.
Try to center punch and drill the hole as close to center as possible. Do this in case the easy out doesn't work. Then you can run a tap (of the correct bolt size) down the hole (last resort). Have had to do this many times.That unfortunately looked exactly like I expected it to, lol
On the stuck broken bolt, a drill bit and an easy out is likely your best bet.
Anyone know what this is? It appeared when we pulled the lower intake manifold.
Seems like it belongs near the thermostat area. A bushing/spacer of some sort?
Seems like it belongs near the thermostat area. A bushing/spacer of some sort?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
That's the distributor hold down.
Well in my defense the removal of the distributor was not my department.
In other news, the valley is getting clearer.
In other news, the valley is getting clearer.
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Are you planning to pull the pan?
So, more clean up in the valley and in the heads then it will be the end of tearing into anything else here. I am thinking that with physical cleaning, stuff has fallen into the pan, along with chemical cleaners so we are going to dump the oil cold without pumping the mess back into the top end, replacing the oil and filter. Then open the old filter with the unknown oil and run the fresh oil for about 1000 miles then bust open the Fram Tough Guard and determine the rest of the cycle from there. I would think the remains of the loose stuff will drain down into the pan or be trapped in the filter. I do have concerns with the screen and oil pump but hope that the bottom oil junk will be in more of a liquid state and clean up over time.
I think we have taken it as far as we can with our limited funds, abilities and tools. It sure would be interesting to see what it looks like on the bottom end and to clean it up with more picture of course. I feel like the clean up it received has helped a lot as the dried cooked oil has been removed and return drains are clear.
Not sure how this can revise the clean up plan using oil and short filter changes.
That seems safest to me. Running strong solvent based cleaners might result in chunks coming loose and plugging something up that you don't want plugged up.
This is a quote from Trav on another thread:
" Getting the sludge out of the pan and pickup screen is pretty easy. Put the car on a level surface, drain the oil and replace the plug, buy a gallon of this.. https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Products-996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor/dp/B00DSMEL2A Fill the gallon into the sump with a funnel down the dipstick tube. Do not turn the engine over or move the car, you don't want it coming into contact with the seals. Let it sit for a couple of days then drain and refill with a gallon of kerosene and drain it. Fill with the cheapest oil you can find and start the engine, run for 10 min at idle then drain and refill with ESP 5w30 and a bottle of Rislone HM additive with a new filter. Run it for 3K The rest of the deposits should take care of themselves unless they are really caked on thick, the pan and pickup will be spotless."
This sounds like a good idea to clean the pan and pickup/screen.
Truck holds 6 quarts of oil so 4 quarts of Chem-Dip should be below the seal and in the pan only.
Would this get us close enough to "unpudding" the motor overall and maybe turn its life around?
" Getting the sludge out of the pan and pickup screen is pretty easy. Put the car on a level surface, drain the oil and replace the plug, buy a gallon of this.. https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Products-996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor/dp/B00DSMEL2A Fill the gallon into the sump with a funnel down the dipstick tube. Do not turn the engine over or move the car, you don't want it coming into contact with the seals. Let it sit for a couple of days then drain and refill with a gallon of kerosene and drain it. Fill with the cheapest oil you can find and start the engine, run for 10 min at idle then drain and refill with ESP 5w30 and a bottle of Rislone HM additive with a new filter. Run it for 3K The rest of the deposits should take care of themselves unless they are really caked on thick, the pan and pickup will be spotless."
This sounds like a good idea to clean the pan and pickup/screen.
Truck holds 6 quarts of oil so 4 quarts of Chem-Dip should be below the seal and in the pan only.
Would this get us close enough to "unpudding" the motor overall and maybe turn its life around?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I have bad luck with EZ outs. When they snap, the cost for removal is steep. I'd buy some brand new bits. 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 or 9/32. Its probably an 8mm coarse thread bolt, Use lots of oil, ANY oil, and patience.
Carburetor cleaner is pretty aggressive. I don't think I would use it inside an engine. My choice would drop and clean the pan and oil pick-up.
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I fall into the camp of not messing with the crud removal, and just running synthetic oil for normal intervals, but that has become a moot point. The most I've ever done for crud removal was clean out the oil drain holes in the heads of small block Chevy engines. A coat hanger and a vacuum cleaner do wonders for that. Then I just put them on a regimen of synthetic for 7500 mile or 2 year change intervals.
