i would love to see the next drain after running 2 bottles of zmax in it.
Sludged, oil didn't drain with plug removed
- Thread starter Brybo86
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I'd recommend reducing OCIs ever so slightly fwiw.
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I am sure this video scared the majority of BITOG, but I am sure given the opportunity, many would also take over maintenance and try to get it clean too.
I think it would be fun to try to clean it out with diesel or something. However, I know it would result in having to clean the oil pickup.
I am sure this video scared the majority of BITOG, but I am sure given the opportunity, many would also take over maintenance and try to get it clean too.
I think it would be fun to try to clean it out with diesel or something. However, I know it would result in having to clean the oil pickup.
When I was 20 years old and no money, I owned a 1985 Dodge Ram with a 318. I blew a head gasket. It leaked so much coolant into the engine. It smoked coolant out the exhaust and leaked coolant into the oil. The head gasket wasn't worth replacing since the engine had high miles on it. I bought a used engine off an old man who wrecked his car. The oil pans were different between a car and the truck so I swapped them out. My oil pan was solid with sludge/coolant jello. No way the oil pump was doing anything anymore. The engine still ran...
Would swapping back and forth between cheap brands of Dino possibly cause something like this to happen? I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
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Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
Would swapping back and forth between cheap brands of Dino possibly cause something like this to happen? I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
That is because it was probably SF or SG rated which was current spec in the 80s...
As for the subject video, fill with cheapest 5w30 and filter available, run for 30 minutes, drain repeat until oil runs out looking fairly fresh. Then remove pan and clean pickup screen, refill again for a series of very short OCI, hope for the best.
Would swapping back and forth between cheap brands of Dino possibly cause something like this to happen? I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
That is because it was probably SF or SG rated which was current spec in the 80s...
As for the subject video, fill with cheapest 5w30 and filter available, run for 30 minutes, drain repeat until oil runs out looking fairly fresh. Then remove pan and clean pickup screen, refill again for a series of very short OCI, hope for the best.
I would berrymans chemtool that thing
Originally Posted By: Brons2
As for the subject video, fill with cheapest 5w30 and filter available, run for 30 minutes, drain repeat until oil runs out looking fairly fresh. Then remove pan and clean pickup screen, refill again for a series of very short OCI, hope for the best.
I'm affraid the only way to do the things right in such a situation would be a tear down and cleaning by hand everything - valvetrain, oil pump pick up, oil passages, everything...And even with all cleaned up thoroughly the damage might be considerable to this engine. Some people don't know that engine oil must be changed.
As for the subject video, fill with cheapest 5w30 and filter available, run for 30 minutes, drain repeat until oil runs out looking fairly fresh. Then remove pan and clean pickup screen, refill again for a series of very short OCI, hope for the best.
I'm affraid the only way to do the things right in such a situation would be a tear down and cleaning by hand everything - valvetrain, oil pump pick up, oil passages, everything...And even with all cleaned up thoroughly the damage might be considerable to this engine. Some people don't know that engine oil must be changed.
Originally Posted By: Brons2
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
That is because it was probably SF or SG rated which was current spec in the 80s...
Yeah that SF oil was intro in 1980 , thus supposedly unsuitable for engines after 1988/89 era .
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
That is because it was probably SF or SG rated which was current spec in the 80s...
Yeah that SF oil was intro in 1980 , thus supposedly unsuitable for engines after 1988/89 era .
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
Would swapping back and forth between cheap brands of Dino possibly cause something like this to happen? I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
No on the oil quality, changed at 3K mi intervals SG/SF oils were fine... None of my engines from 30 or even 40 years ago had sludge issues... That engine had a small internal coolant leak or oil was never changed...
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: Brons2
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
That is because it was probably SF or SG rated which was current spec in the 80s...
Yeah that SF oil was intro in 1980 , thus supposedly unsuitable for engines after 1988/89 era .
For the most part a engine is stupid, has no clue what oil is used... Probably with no exception 1990 engines were no different than 1988(I know the Fords were same), but yet it's said they could be damaged by using earlier oils... Mostly a Chicken Little "the sky is falling" routine..
Would swapping back and forth between cheap brands of Dino possibly cause something like this to happen? I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
No on the oil quality, changed at 3K mi intervals SG/SF oils were fine... None of my engines from 30 or even 40 years ago had sludge issues... That engine had a small internal coolant leak or oil was never changed...
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: Brons2
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
That is because it was probably SF or SG rated which was current spec in the 80s...
Yeah that SF oil was intro in 1980 , thus supposedly unsuitable for engines after 1988/89 era .
For the most part a engine is stupid, has no clue what oil is used... Probably with no exception 1990 engines were no different than 1988(I know the Fords were same), but yet it's said they could be damaged by using earlier oils... Mostly a Chicken Little "the sky is falling" routine..
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
Yeah that SF oil was intro in 1980 , thus supposedly unsuitable for engines after 1988/89 era .
For the most part a engine is stupid, has no clue what oil is used... Probably with no exception 1990 engines were no different than 1988(I know the Fords were same), but yet it's said they could be damaged by using earlier oils... Mostly a Chicken Little "the sky is falling" routine..
Somehow, Shell Helix HX3 SF can read your engine features ............
Quote:Shell Helix HX3 (SF) is specifically formulated for gasoline engines with conventional carburettors without blow-by-gas recirculation.
Shell Helix HX3 (SG or SJ) is suitable for engines with blow-by-gas recirculation. Shell Helix HX3 meets industry specifications and has formulations for different fuel types.
http://www.shell.com.my/products-service...ineral/hx3.html
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
I actually read on a bottle of dollar general conventional 10w30 that it is not recommended to be used in vehicles made after 1988 because it could cause sludge buildup...
Yeah that SF oil was intro in 1980 , thus supposedly unsuitable for engines after 1988/89 era .
For the most part a engine is stupid, has no clue what oil is used... Probably with no exception 1990 engines were no different than 1988(I know the Fords were same), but yet it's said they could be damaged by using earlier oils... Mostly a Chicken Little "the sky is falling" routine..
Somehow, Shell Helix HX3 SF can read your engine features ............
Quote:Shell Helix HX3 (SF) is specifically formulated for gasoline engines with conventional carburettors without blow-by-gas recirculation.
Shell Helix HX3 (SG or SJ) is suitable for engines with blow-by-gas recirculation. Shell Helix HX3 meets industry specifications and has formulations for different fuel types.
http://www.shell.com.my/products-service...ineral/hx3.html
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